How do you keep store your edc knifes.

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Aug 26, 2011
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Hey there!
All my knifes are folding and stainless except for Izula. The name stainless talk by itself. It’s not 100% anti stain, it’s stainless.
My blades are around low mid range steel like 420hc to ultra premium like s110v.
I usually once a month take them off the packing and drop oil before store again inside the plastic bag inside the packing.
Some of them are coated and others are satin.
Currently how do you keep and store your knifes? Absolutely dry? With a light coat of oil? With silica inside the packing? Inside original plastic bag inside the packing?
All are non used knifes, just a small collection. But if used do you wash and let dry naturally or blow some compression air?

Thanks.

André.
 
Been using Seal 1 CLP Plus Paste lately. Wax on, expose the steel to sunlight for 20 minutes, wax off. Then store open air in a drawer, sheathed on a pack, glove compartment, etc. I rarely use dessicant packs, though I have hundreds available at my disposal. If you do use a clay/silica gel pack, choose the types which can be reactivated.

IMG_20171020_073455_edit.jpg
 
  • I use a large plastic container with an o-ring to keep out excessive moisture. Search "ziploc weathershield" on the big river site.
  • You can add a silica pack in the container if you want, I don't have to as I'm keeping the container in my house in the basement. The fact it's temp-controlled year round reduces the need for the silica pack. If I were storing in an unheated garage or shed, I'd definitely add a refreshable silica pack and refresh that thing 3 or 4x a year at the same time you recoat your blades with oil.
  • I do put a very light wipe-down of oil on the blades while in storage, and refresh it every few months. Sometimes every 3 months, but usually more like 2x a year. I use CorrosionX on blades never used for food prep, and a light food safe grade mineral oil on blades that are (Norton honing oil).
  • I live in the Pacific NW where it's extremely humid 8 months out of the year, and this approach has prevented any rust from forming on any knife, stainless or carbon steel.
    • OK, ETA, I lied. :) I forgot about ONE instance where for some unknown reason, a 'stainless' VG10 blade developed some rust up on the spine in the jimping. Soaking it in lemon juice removed the rust safely, blade good as new. This is the only rust I've had on my stored knives, ever.
 
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Renaissance wax is good for knives you want to give some rust protection to but want to be pretty for display.
 
I did read of a guy who use to drop his edc folder in a container mineral oil as soon as he got home, I have read about edc knife blades going rusty overnight on a bedside table it was so humid.

Is mineral oil fine on knife scales like bone or wood or some man made materials like g10.

I don't really have a problem with rust in the UK, 99% of my knives don't leave the house as they are not legal to carry and most are stainless, the ones that are carbon have a forced patina or left wiped down with 3in1 oil or a Tuff Cloth.
 
Just rubbing your fingers along your clean knife blade can impart enough oil to prevent rust getting a start if you have nothing else at hand, Just don't cut my sandwich with it.

Some people have a more acidic sweat and a fingerprint can go rusty overnight on a unprotected carbon steel blade if you have lent somebody your knife and don't clean/protect it afterwards.
 
  • I use a large plastic container with an o-ring to keep out excessive moisture. Search "ziploc weathershield" on the big river site.
  • You can add a silica pack in the container if you want, I don't have to as I'm keeping the container in my house in the basement. The fact it's temp-controlled year round reduces the need for the silica pack. If I were storing in an unheated garage or shed, I'd definitely add a refreshable silica pack and refresh that thing 3 or 4x a year at the same time you recoat your blades with oil.
  • I do put a very light wipe-down of oil on the blades while in storage, and refresh it every few months. Sometimes every 3 months, but usually more like 2x a year. I use CorrosionX on blades never used for food prep, and a light food safe grade mineral oil on blades that are (Norton honing oil).
  • I live in the Pacific NW where it's extremely humid 8 months out of the year, and this approach has prevented any rust from forming on any knife, stainless or carbon steel.
    • OK, ETA, I lied. :) I forgot about ONE instance where for some unknown reason, a 'stainless' VG10 blade developed some rust up on the spine in the jimping. Soaking it in lemon juice removed the rust safely, blade good as new. This is the only rust I've had on my stored knives, ever.
Brilliant idea. Here where I live we call this ziploc as “hermetic pot” thanks.
 
Been using Seal 1 CLP Plus Paste lately. Wax on, expose the steel to sunlight for 20 minutes, wax off. Then store open air in a drawer, sheathed on a pack, glove compartment, etc. I rarely use dessicant packs, though I have hundreds available at my disposal. If you do use a clay/silica gel pack, choose the types which can be reactivated.

View attachment 784023
Is this a vacuum sealed bag?
 
Same here, just not the sock drawer, and no problems with the knives after 40+ years of this MO.

So, I LOVE the "store them dry" approach for the simplicity of maintenance. Here's a Q for you 'store them dry' folks:

  • Do you have any knives that are NOT kept in a climate-controlled residence, for example in a vehicle year-round, or an unheated shed? Do you do anything to protect those knives from corrosion?
 
I did read of a guy who use to drop his edc folder in a container mineral oil as soon as he got home, I have read about edc knife blades going rusty overnight on a bedside table it was so humid.

Is mineral oil fine on knife scales like bone or wood or some man made materials like g10.

I don't really have a problem with rust in the UK, 99% of my knives don't leave the house as they are not legal to carry and most are stainless, the ones that are carbon have a forced patina or left wiped down with 3in1 oil or a Tuff Cloth.
Actually none of my are rust, I’m just looking for prevention. So, too many oil can cause rust? Thanks by share.
 
So, I LOVE the "store them dry" approach for the simplicity of maintenance. Here's a Q for you 'store them dry' folks:

  • Do you have any knives that are NOT kept in a climate-controlled residence, for example in a vehicle year-round, or an unheated shed? Do you do anything to protect those knives from corrosion?
All of my knives are kept and used indoors. I transport them in the car and outdoors —in a carrying case—year round.
 
No oil protects against rust, But i was wondering if the oil could affect the handle of the knife.
Well, I have a PM2 that one scale are a little whitish. When I spread oil it back to black color but I don’t know if the oil are causing this. Unhappily early this morning I put oil on it. Let’s see next week when it become whitish again and I post a picture.
 
Thanks. I’ll look for this wax.

I watched a lot of youtube video on protecting knifes from rust, Frog Lube is supposedly one of the best rust protector but it is expensive but it is non-toxic, wd-40 specialist corrosion got 2nd place, I just use 3in1 oil it`s cheap and i use mineral oils it`s the cheapest and non-toxic so it`s fine in the kitchen.
 
Well, I have a PM2 that one scale are a little whitish. When I spread oil it back to black color but I don’t know if the oil are causing this. Unhappily early this morning I put oil on it. Let’s see next week when it become whitish again and I post a picture.

Silicone oil is used in a lot of car spays to shine the dull plastic as it stays shiny, but silicone spray should not be use on silicone rubber or similar as it can make it soft.
 
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