How do you keep store your edc knifes.

[maximus83]

All of my knives are kept and used indoors. I transport them in the car and outdoors —in a carrying case—year round.

I just KNEW it. Store your knife dry in a trunk/toolbox/emergency kit for a year, and let us know the findings please. Just kidding of course.

ETA: Where I live, I cannot even get away with storing them in the HOUSE without some extra measures like I posted earlier. Indoors, I've found it's either a light coating of oil, OR a silica pack in the container, don't need both. Outdoors, where I keep a knife in an emergency kit in the car, have to coat with a heavy coat of CorrosionX and update every so many months, especially on carbon steel.

 

[brasileiro]

Silicone oil is used in a lot of car spays to shine the dull plastic as it stays shiny, but silicone spray should not be use on silicone rubber or similar as it can make it soft.

Good to know. I’m using All Purpose Singer Oil. I think I’ll change it for WD-40. Thanks for advise.

 

[PoorUserName]

Good to know. I’m using All Purpose Singer Oil. I think I’ll change it for WD-40. Thanks for advise.

For rust prevention(edit) it`s "WD40 specialist corrosion", not the bog standard WD40 spray and a lot more expensive, standard WD40 spray, came just behind 3in1 oil in a corrosion test on knife blade blanks i saw, though WD40 has water repealing properties while 3in1 does not.

 

[maximus83]

WD40 specialist is indeed really good at corrosion protection. It is also EXTREMELY toxic and I would not personally put it on knives where there's any chance of regular skin contact.

 

[PoorUserName]

WD40 specialist is indeed really good at corrosion protection. It is also EXTREMELY toxic and I would not personally put it on knives where there's any chance of regular skin contact.

Always best to check toxicity before you buy.

Mineral oil is best oil for kitchen use as it`s non toxic and cheap, camellia oil is also non-toxic and is used by the Japanese on their carbon steel knives.

 

[adamlau]

Renaissance wax is good for knives you want to give some rust protection to but want to be pretty for display.

I would advise against Ren Wax as a rust preventative, despite what a museum curator might say. I have had satin SR-101 (52100) treated with Ren Wax develop spots in open air storage in the relatively mild climate of SoCal.

 

[Lapedog]

I would advise against Ren Wax as a rust preventative, despite what a museum curator might say. I have had satin SR-101 (52100) treated with Ren Wax develop spots in open air storage in the relatively mild climate of SoCal.

Really? I am surprised to hear that. I have always heard good reports on it for long term display pieces.

 

[annr]

I just KNEW it. Store your knife dry in a trunk/toolbox/emergency kit for a year, and let us know the findings please. Just kidding of course.

ETA: Where I live, I cannot even get away with storing them in the HOUSE without some extra measures like I posted earlier. Indoors, I've found it's either a light coating of oil, OR a silica pack in the container, don't need both. Outdoors, where I keep a knife in an emergency kit in the car, have to coat with a heavy coat of CorrosionX and update every so many months, especially on carbon steel.

Yup you were right! I guess that begs the question of the type of steel. Being as my habit is not to do a lot with the knife as I described, if rust or corrosion bothered me, maybe I would try a Spyderco Pacific Salt?

ETA: also begs the question of why store them outdoors, I can understand the car perhaps ICE...and if you lube the knife, don't you have to get the oil off prior to using? I realize I don't know what you do with the knives!

 

[annr]

Always best to check toxicity before you buy.

Mineral oil is best oil for kitchen use as it`s non toxic and cheap, camellia oil is also non-toxic and is used by the Japanese on their carbon steel knives.

What mineral oil do you use? And how do you know it's non-toxic? (What does it say on the bottle?) My stash of mineral oil is running low (after 20-30 years!), and I'm looking for more. (I use this on edged tools' blades--other than knives--and some steel parts of equipment). I also use this and/or Norton honing oil when sharpening.

I see mineral oil in the drug store that contains vitamin E (think it's meant to treat constipation). Seems more viscous than I would want--though probably fit for human ingestion.

I have another mineral oil (Snow River Products) I found around the house called "Wood Preservative" which "conditions and maintains the natural beauty of cutting boards, chopping blocks, and wooden kitchenware." It says it "contains mineral oil" and "This product meets FDA requirements as a food additive, but is not intended for internal use. If ingested, consult a physician." This seems lighter weight.

I'm looking for the "purest" mineral oil that may go directly from a knife's edge into contact with something that may go into the mouth. Any suggestions?

 

[maximus83]

I don't know what's the purest. I would just get any mineral oil that's marked as "food grade" or food safe, like the stuff they sell by the gallon for cutting boards. The pharmacy stuff works too. The Norton light honing oil as well. Again you don't want to eat it, but food safe means safe for incidental contact like if there was a bit of residue on the blade that you don't get wiped off before food prep. Remember that with pharma grade mineral oil, people directly INGEST it in small quantities as a laxative, so using food grade or pharma grade mineral oil on your blades is fine.

Get the Norton honing oil, or search "food grade mineral oil" online or on the big river site.

 

[jc57]

Desk drawer and bookshelf.

 

[HeavyHanded]

What mineral oil do you use? And how do you know it's non-toxic? (What does it say on the bottle?) My stash of mineral oil is running low (after 20-30 years!), and I'm looking for more. (I use this on edged tools' blades--other than knives--and some steel parts of equipment). I also use this and/or Norton honing oil when sharpening.

I see mineral oil in the drug store that contains vitamin E (think it's meant to treat constipation). Seems more viscous than I would want--though probably fit for human ingestion.

I have another mineral oil (Snow River Products) I found around the house called "Wood Preservative" which "conditions and maintains the natural beauty of cutting boards, chopping blocks, and wooden kitchenware." It says it "contains mineral oil" and "This product meets FDA requirements as a food additive, but is not intended for internal use. If ingested, consult a physician." This seems lighter weight.

I'm looking for the "purest" mineral oil that may go directly from a knife's edge into contact with something that may go into the mouth. Any suggestions?

Pharmacy mineral oil - you can drink it...but it is medicinal.

 

[annr]

Pharmacy mineral oil - you can drink it...but it is medicinal.

Is there any reason to avoid the vitamin E on the ingredients list?

Or perhaps some pharmacy mineral oils don’t use vitamin E?

Also, I was looking for a lighter weight oil than the laxative version —if one exists.

 

[SV-97]

So, I LOVE the "store them dry" approach for the simplicity of maintenance. Here's a Q for you 'store them dry' folks:

• Do you have any knives that are NOT kept in a climate-controlled residence, for example in a vehicle year-round, or an unheated shed? Do you do anything to protect those knives from corrosion?

I had a DPx HIT laying on the workbench about a year that had a paracord wrap that I used for cutting sandpaper. Naturally it got wet Everytime and was wet for a few days as the paracord holds the moisture very long in that environment. Not a sign of rust, so at least with S35VN there's no problem. My other knifes are kept inside the house and stored mostly dry, steels like M4 can rust in that environment but I coat them with froglube lightly and they're good to go.
Regarding Renaissance wax: I haven't tried it for blades yet but sometimes use it on handles; it's made to prevent stuff from the environment without impacting it's original finish in museums etc. so it should be the stuff perfect for your job.

Froglube as well as Renaissance wax smell godly

 

[PoorUserName]

You can buy clear lacquer in a spray, clean your machete, axe, large knife ect with solvent, mask off the handle and give the blade a coat two.

I use to use a product called car plan ignition sealer, damp start, It`s a clear spray.

CarPlan Sealed With a Tss - Ignition Sealer
Sealed With a Tsss is a damp start product which waterproofs auto electrics giving the entire ignition and electrical system a clear coat of durable plastic insulation which resists condensation, water, petrol, diesel and oil.

 

[adamlau]

I have always heard good reports on [Renaissance Wax] for long term display pieces.

Perhaps in a climate-controlled, environment. My home is set to 78F when occupied and 85F otherwise. Has been for years. Humidity levels can drop down below 40% if the A/C is left running long enough on a dry day. 70% or so on a hot, humid day before the A/C is turned on.

 

[maximus83]

Yup you were right! I guess that begs the question of the type of steel. Being as my habit is not to do a lot with the knife as I described, if rust or corrosion bothered me, maybe I would try a Spyderco Pacific Salt?

ETA: also begs the question of why store them outdoors, I can understand the car perhaps ICE...and if you lube the knife, don't you have to get the oil off prior to using? I realize I don't know what you do with the knives!

Your ETA is actually a valid point. The thread title mentions EDC knives (not knives in general) which of course means folders and small fixed blades for carry, and I forgot about that. Oops. I do in fact store a small number of fixed blade knives in non-climate-controlled conditions in the humid PNW (examples: in my tool shed, and in an emergency bag in my car). I have machetes, saws, tools, etc in the shed, and in the car, I have a smaller fixed stainless knife and a larger fixed carbon steel blade in an emergency kit. These I do have to keep heavily coated with mineral oil (Corrosionx for the tools in the shed, as they are not used for food prep, ever).

 

[B.F.U]

I guess if you're a collector and don't want ANY signs of rust/patina at all, AND if you're in an extremely humid environment rust could be a big issue but I haven't needed much in the way of special storage.

The only knives I have and don't use are stored in wax paper in the tubes they came in (Great Eastern Cutlery). They're almost all carbon steel and rarely show any signs of oxidation. If signs of patina or rust do show, it's almost always from me not cleaning my hand oil off them well enough the last time I looked at them. I just take them out every now and then and oil them and wipe them down.

I carry a modern stainless knife and a carbon traditional knife almost every day. I use both types for hunting, fishing, work, and general EDC tasks. I've never had actual rust on the stainless knives, only patina or pepper spots. My carbon knives get patina quickly from use, and rarely rust unless I put them away wet and forget about them. Even in that case, some Flitz polishing compound usually takes it off easily.

 

[blanex1]

 

[blanex1]

for last three years been keeping most of my spydercos in these two boxes/no rust or pits to date,i through in a couple bags of that stuff though,keeps things dry.

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