How do you measure 2-part epoxy?

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kbright

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Jun 27, 2004
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Looking for some tips here. Had another failure due to improper mix.

How do you measure equal parts of 2-part epoxy? I'm not talking about a couple drops, I'm talking about a shot glass size, maybe an ounce or 40 mils. I have been eye balling it, pouring into small plastic disposable cups. Looking for cheap and disposable methods.
 
Not that it matters, but I'm using JB Weld, and clean all the surfaces with acetone. I do not overclamp or squeeze out the glue.
 
You can mix it on a two or 3 inch piece of duct tape on your workbench

squeeze out a line of each part that’s Equal and then mix it together
 
I always just eyeball it, but you could always get some graduated cups from Amazon or somewhere. Just search for "diposable graduated cups" or "disposable measuring cups" or even just "epoxy mixing cups". They'll usually come in packs of 20, 50, or 100, and vary in price depending on size.
 
HSC /// said:
You can mix it on a two or 3 inch piece of duct tape on your workbench

squeeze out a line of each part that’s Equal and then mix it together
Click to expand...
This is what I do. I know of at least one maker that uses syringes. As long as you don't mix the syringes up on subsequent use, and clean them, you will get very accurate measurements of your epoxy
 
I use cheap single serve condiment cups and measure either by weight for larger batches, or number of "glugs" for smaller batches.
 
Go to the local feed store and get two plastic syringes. Fill them with part A and part B and put a piece of masking tape on each one with the A and B written on the tape with a pen. Squirt out the required amount of each in a non-waxed cup and mix. Leave the unused epoxy in the syringes. When the epoxy is used up, clean the syringes with acetone and refill with epoxy.
 
Condiment cups work OK for larger batches, but if you want it right ... weigh it out. Any good resin has the weight ratio on the bottes. It is not the same as the volume ratio. It can range from 100:44 to 100:92.
 
Disposable medicine measuring cups from amazon. I get the ones with multiple different units on them and use different units depending on the knife size I'm making. I leave the leftover in the cup on the bench so I know its completely cured before continuing with the knife. We get big temperature swings in Oklahoma and sometimes 24 hrs doesn't cut it.
 
kbright said:
Looking for some tips here. Had another failure due to improper mix.

How do you measure equal parts of 2-part epoxy? I'm not talking about a couple drops, I'm talking about a shot glass size, maybe an ounce or 40 mils. I have been eye balling it, pouring into small plastic disposable cups. Looking for cheap and disposable methods.
Click to expand...
I would use the whole shot and have leftover instead fooling around trying to squeeze equal amounts out of each tube.

Sure no one wants wastage but if it takes more than one try you've already wasted more than the full amount.
 
I use a small plastic cup and one of these small digital postal scale with high sensitivity. I use G-flex which has a 1.2:1 by weight mix ratio, so the math is pretty simple. Works great.
 
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kbright said:
Looking for some tips here. Had another failure due to improper mix.

How do you measure equal parts of 2-part epoxy? I'm not talking about a couple drops, I'm talking about a shot glass size, maybe an ounce or 40 mils. I have been eye balling it, pouring into small plastic disposable cups. Looking for cheap and disposable methods.
Click to expand...

Did you have a batch of handles fail? An ounce is a lot of epoxy unless you're doing a decent batch of knives at the same time. What was the method of failure? Curious because there should be a bit of leeway for 1:1 epoxy mixes unless you're using a different type.
 
I'd like to hear more about the manner of the failure too please? JB weld's a pretty solid choice I think, I use it for all metal to metal among other uses and always eyeball in small amounts like pea to marble sized squeezes. I have heard around these parts that acetone can leave residue and denatured alcohol may be a better choice.

What activity caused the separation? Was it in a hidden or full tang, were holes drilled thru a full tang or an epoxy reservoir used? Were the mating surfaces roughed up with a dremel or sandpaper? If hidden was the tang slot completely filled so that it came out the pin holes and the top at the same time with no air pockets? What materials were involved in the failure and any other details that could serve to help us all?

thanks
 
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kbright said:
Looking for some tips here. Had another failure due to improper mix.
Click to expand...

kbright said:
Not that it matters, but I'm using JB Weld, and clean all the surfaces with acetone. I do not overclamp or squeeze out the glue.
Click to expand...

I'm wondering if it's something else, other than your ratio because JB Weld should be relatively easy. To quote Drew and Harbeer:
Drew Riley said:
I always just eyeball it
Click to expand...
HSC /// said:
squeeze out a line of each part that’s Equal and then mix it together
Click to expand...
Is it possible that you're contaminating it with what you're mixing with or on?
 
My failure was in a hidden tang knife, with a pinhole to push out the excess. I drill a round hole which gets covered by a bolster, and it takes alot of epoxy. I let it cure 24 hours, but when I went to grind the handle down, it was gummy and spacers lifted off. Soaked it in hot water and took it apart. My JB Weld is fresh, I buy it in 8 ounce bottles. I don't think there was contamination, but I think the mix was off. I just eyeball it. I have heard that acetone may leave a residue, and perhaps I will use alcohol in the future.

I like the idea of a digital scale for weight, I'll probably get one and maybe learn to reload brass.
 
For g flex or blade bond I use a Digital reloading scale. I put the clear cup on it and zero it out. Add one part, remember the weight then add the hardener to make it double. Or you could do two seperate cups before mixing.
With the west systems stuff you can just buy the pumps kit and not even worry about weighing it.
 
$20 digital gram scale, disposable plastic cups

No cleaning, solvent is more expensive than cups.

Vinyl disposable gloves, Acid Brush


I'm not one of those "metric is better for everything, if it's not metric you're just stupid" people.

I say gram scale because it's easier to calculate the ratios and also to watch the numbers go up in a linear way until you hit your target.
 
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