How do you shape/contour the front of your handles?

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Jun 4, 2018
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I've been having some trouble shaping the front of my scales, and I'm curious how you all approach them. I've been temporarily CA gluing both halves together, rough cutting, drilling my pin holes, and then using a piece of 2x4 with a 45 degree cut clamped to my workrest as a guide to bevel/curve the fronts. This works, but I feel like it's a pretty heavy handed approach.
 
I'd also be interested in hearing what others do. My process is as follows:

1. Rough-cut the scales to the handle contour. A spot of super-glue to hold them together.
2. Set the platen to about 30 degrees. Using the tool rest, I sand one side, then the other, then repeat until the scale bevels are set. I keep going through 400 grit. Then I hand-sand the bevels through a few more grits.
3. Separate the scales and make sure the mating surfaces are flat. I clamp one scale to the blade, putting the end of the bevel where I want it. Then I drill the pin holes.
4. Clamp the scales together, making sure the bevels are lined up. Then drill through the first set of holes to put holes in the second scale.

Goes pretty quickly. If there are better ideas, I'll welcome hearing them!
 
I've been having some trouble shaping the front of my scales, and I'm curious how you all approach them. I've been temporarily CA gluing both halves together, rough cutting, drilling my pin holes, and then using a piece of 2x4 with a 45 degree cut clamped to my workrest as a guide to bevel/curve the fronts. This works, but I feel like it's a pretty heavy handed approach.
I use short pins to hold together scale / which are already been grind to match shape of tang / then mark line where and how I want fronts to look and grind to line /90 degrees / on disc sander . Then I set the desire angle on work rest on my disc sander and shape them ....
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This way It is easy to grind both scale to match .I grind on set angle till I get to the edge of scale from both side .........Me and my broken English :D
PS . I m sorry I just add text ....bolded one .Sketch don t show exactly what I mean
 
Last edited:
Hmm, that sounds prone to error.

Starting with a knife that already has the pin holes drilled:
1. I cut out my scales making sure there is enough material to cover my knife handle and giving enough material around to grind away.
2. Flatten, flatten, flatten.
3. Clamp the scales and knife together with the knife on top of the scale material.
4. Drill the first pin hole.
5. Put the pin in the hole. Just added security that things dont shift.
6. Drill second, pin it.
7. Drill last.

When it comes to shaping the front of the scales:
1. Pin them together using the holes that were just drilled.
2. Measure how much material you want removed from the scales at the front.
3. Grind off the material.
4. Adjust the flat platen to a 35 degree angle.
5. Shape each size of the scale

This method makes sure the scales and knife will pin without binding, as well as the front of the scales will line up properly.
 
I cut the corners after everything is glued up. I just make sure to finish the front end of the handle to final grit before glue.
 
For a 45/35’or whatever, I do each separately, then match them up to drill. If rounded, drill the scales, then use the pins to hold the halves together as you contour. The most important part is making sure your scales are completely flat and uniform
 
Lately, I have been using a "scraper" made from a piece of 15N20 with a couple of notches ground out with an 4 and 8 inch contact wheels.
 
make scales about 25% oversize. drill, pin, glue and cure. cover area ahead of handle with painter's tape. shape with 2x72, 4x36, 3x21, dremel, finishing sander and hand sand.
 
Hmm, that sounds prone to error.

Starting with a knife that already has the pin holes drilled:
1. I cut out my scales making sure there is enough material to cover my knife handle and giving enough material around to grind away.
2. Flatten, flatten, flatten.
3. Clamp the scales and knife together with the knife on top of the scale material.
4. Drill the first pin hole.
5. Put the pin in the hole. Just added security that things dont shift.
6. Drill second, pin it.
7. Drill last.

When it comes to shaping the front of the scales:
1. Pin them together using the holes that were just drilled.
2. Measure how much material you want removed from the scales at the front.
3. Grind off the material.
4. Adjust the flat platen to a 35 degree angle.
5. Shape each size of the scale

This method makes sure the scales and knife will pin without binding, as well as the front of the scales will line up properly.

Just about exactly what I do. :)
 
I always drill pin holes in handle slabs and use them to line up slabs for a drop of superglue. I don't set a table at an angle. Instead, I free hand grind the front of the slabs. The human eye is incredibly accurate when comparing things, so it is easy to get both side of front symmetrical. Free hand grinding lets you create a complex curved front, which IMO is much nicer looking that a flat angle.
 
I always drill pin holes in handle slabs and use them to line up slabs for a drop of superglue. I don't set a table at an angle. Instead, I free hand grind the front of the slabs. The human eye is incredibly accurate when comparing things, so it is easy to get both side of front symmetrical. Free hand grinding lets you create a complex curved front, which IMO is much nicer looking that a flat angle.

I understand what you are saying. But just because you use a flat platen at an angle doesn't mean it has to be straight. For example, the knife below has flat sections, as well as curved. All done on a flat platen at angle.

53OHNMc.jpg
 
I pin the scales together after drilling. Then freehand on flat disc both at the same time. Then finish grit to 400 on an eight inch wheel, good to go. Unpin and glue up. Couple three Castrators.

U8IE6xJ.jpg
 
Yep, drill holes first, hold them together with pins. I shape mine on a 8" wheel. Then test with the blade, shape some more, test with the blade again until I like how the front of the scale looks with the plunge line and how it terminates in the finger coil, if there is one.
 
I pin mine together. I don't usually bevel the fronts. I just use a 6" wheel to profile and get to the finish.
 
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