I usually don't do inertials on my liner/frame locks because it can jack up the lock position.
I can do inertials on all my lockbacks, except for my Al Mar Falcon. I've given it a few half-hearted tries, but I know that using the force required puts me at risk for flinging the knife out of my hand, or maybe dinging the lock at the contact with the tang-and the fit is too nice there to do that.
I like doubling down on my axis knives, pulling the lockbar back and bouncing the blade twice before releasing the lock with the knife open. It almost feels like I'm doing a basic horizontal with a bali.
I also like to use my ring or pinky finger on the stud/hole to do openings into revrese grip, sometimes adding some wrist for a slow blade.
I find a sometimes tough one to do is to hold a closed blade with the pivot on the thumb side (like getting ready to thumb it open normally), turning the hand palm down, and-for righties-snapping the wrist clockwise. I have to resist the urge to accelerate with the elbow, as it's way too slow to effect an opening. The key for me is to turn the wrist as far over as possible, so the elbow still has to move to tuck into the body (anyone who knows a bit about wing chun can maybe think of it as turing the arm from a less pronounced bong sao to a tan sao as quickly as you can)
It's much easier to shake down to start the blade, and then snap back up to complete the opening.
Or, just swing straight down from the elbow, somewhere around 120* of travel is where the blade should lock open. Works the same swinging straight up with some knives.
I practice most of my stuff with a med. voyager. The light blade with strong lockback and detent is more challenging.