How fast does 1095 / 1075 rust?

L

Lyndino

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Feb 22, 2022
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I recently bought an Ontario SP-10 and as much as I really like it I find it a little heavy to be taking with me on kayak / canoe / multi day excursions (2lbs feels like 20 after a while).
I'm thinking of a more reasonably sized knife, around 6" - 7" blade with decent weight and what not, but my question is based purely on using high carbon on the these trips vs stainless steel? How fast will the carbon blades rust? Even with wiping them when I'm done rain still happens.
 
I have lots of high carbon blades that do not have a speck of rust after years and dozens of outdoor adventures in rain, snow, sleet, hail.

I have never had an issue providing they are cleaned and wiped completely dry at the end of the day, and a light coat of oil applied.
 
i think carbon is good and just wipe clean and oil it should be fine. a little ounce of prevention saves some effort later. I know you may have your preference for that size, but would going smaller to a 4 to 5 inch blade work for you? I just took a tangent, sorry, but smaller also makes sense if you are paddling. Maybe the smaller Beckers. maybe even the Buck Compadre in 5160.I assume you are wanting the bigger size for wood processing etc. but would you be able to build a fire with materials around you? Really interested which direction you choose. Or would you consider stainless in the larger size, so maybe a Buck 119 or 120?
 
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A coat of oil before use and a wipe down with oil after and it should be fine.

The only time I've ever had issues with rusting is when I foolishly believed that Rem Wax would protect carbon steel from moisture.
 
As others have said unless you live in a humid/tropical environment I wouldn't worry. I'm in the UK used various carbon steels in wet weather with no issue. My most used knives are in 80crv2, 5160, 10 series steels. The only really reactive steels I've used are the Hitachi blues steels which do rust extremely easily.
 
5BA7067C-FE0B-417B-B71F-12FCF7596684.jpeg

Not saying you have to go custom, but wanted you to see the the size of my ML knife with a 5 inch blade and black walnut handle.
 
Most of my outdoor knives are carbon steel.

If you use the knife regularly, you may find a slight discoloring/patina forming on the blade.
This will also happen if you wipe the blade after use, slowly but steadily. That's completely fine and will become part of the character of the knife.

However, protracted immersion in dirty/salty water can and will form red rust.
I've had a uncoated carbon steel knife form nice rust spots in my pocket after wearing it on a hot day's hike and as I did not use it all day, the humidity in my sweaty pockets was enough to have the knife form rust in the kydex sheath.

That took a bit to remove and I had some pitting in the blade afterwards.

If I get a new uncoated carbon steel knife, I'll force a patina (immerse it 20 minutes in a very hot & strong coffee with a shot of vinegar or mustard - makes for a lovely dark patterned blade), and this patina is slowing down the buildup of real rust.

BPS Adventurer.jpg
(picture: BPS Adventurer after 10minutes mustard and coffee immersion)

Still, carbon knives require more maintenance & love than stainless blades.

But you got a SP-10 - Isn't that knife coated quite thickly? So the only chance it'll rust on the edge if you don't use it regularly. Same should apply for smaller Ontario SP knives.

I have a AEB-L stainless knife coming and I'll use it to cut fresh vegetation and I hope that it's more forgiving than my 10XX Knives...
 
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Get a Spyderco Salt 2 if you want a (1) lighter knife that (2) is rust resistant. It cost a bit more than an SP-10 but is well worth the difference and you won't have anything to crab about your edc knife.

 
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I do not like coatings. Even if the coatings work, the edge still rusts.

Go with a classic Buck. Very rust resistant. Lighter weight. Holds an edge.

I like carbon steel alot, but appreciate low maintenance knives too.
 
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