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- Jul 22, 2011
- Messages
- 2,348
When I first had this idea I did a little research and asked a few questions. I was told you cant dye finished Micarta. I decided to try anyway.
Now I wont deny the smart way to control the color of Micarta is before its impregnated with resin.
But I have been doing it for about 3 years and am happy with it.
I am calling this process semi permanent. It will eventually start to wear off. The rougher you are on it the faster it will fade.
I have found that I like to re dye it about once a year and re wax it 3 or 4 times a year. Keeping it waxed makes the dye last longer and the wax is very grippy.
If you don't like the idea of having to maintain this, it might not be for you.
Try this at your own risk.
A lot of the steps are to your own personal preference. You control how rough or smooth they come out. You control how light or dark they are.
This is a very simple but somewhat time consuming process. Lots of waiting in between steps.
New Micarta needs less prep work. Old Micarta that has darkened from use and the oil in your hands will need more cleaning up to properly absorb the dye.
Step 1.
Clean and prep Micarta.
With new Micarta this can be as simple as wiping down with a warm wet rag. I like to dry it out for a few hours at least after getting it wet before dyeing.
With dirty micarta I sand it then clean it.
I like to sand mine very smooth. I use 400, 1000 and 1500 grit sandpaper. The wax not only protects the dye but provides enough grip for me.
If you like your Micarta rougher for more grip, sand less or not at all.
Step 2.
Dye.
I use Fiebings Proffesional Oil Dye for leather. I like dark brown but you can do any color you want I assume. I have done brown and black. Black hides most of the "grain"
I use a cotton rag like an old T shirt. Apply heavily leaving a bunch on it. Don't wipe it off. Let it sit for 24 to 48 hours. Then wipe it clean and re apply as many times as you want, repeating more for a darker finish. Look at the pictures below for examples.
Once you are happy with your color let it dry well before waxing. I wait 2 or 3 days at least.
Step 3.
Wax.
This is a simple cold wax process. Buy a chunk of bees wax and rub it on it heavily. It will be gummy and wont feel or look too good but then you polish it with a clean rag and it smooths out and and gives it a smooth, shiny look that helps the dye last longer.
Tip to remember. If you sand your Micarta be careful not to sand it too much. You might not realize how much thinner you make it and be unhappy in the end. You can also remove too much material around the bolts and make the bolts heads stick out too much. It can be uncomfortable poking you in the hand and you might not like how it looks.
Proceed with caution but don't be afraid to personalize it to your liking.
That's all there is to it. More waiting than work.
I have been wanting to make some OD green Micarta using this method but haven't looked for the dye yet. Not even sure they make a good one for that.
Another idea I want to try is sealing the micarta in a vacuum once its coated. Who knows might work great. Might not make a difference. Maybe someday.
Please don't hesitate to ask me any questions you might have. I want to see you succeed.
And don't forget to come back and show me how it turned out!
The Dye. Fiebings has several types of dye. I only recommend the Pro series. Its only a couple bucks more than the other kind. Worth it.
The BK16 in the picture below has Micarta I dyed with Fiebings Proffesional Oil Dye in Black.
The BK15 below has a lighter dye job but i still used the same dark brown dye I always use. I heavily applied the dye, let sit for 24 hours then wiped clean. I did that 3 times total 3 nights in a row. Then I let it dry for 3 days then waxed.
In the sun.
In the shade.
Below is my most recent one. I wanted them very dark.
This time I coated them with dye and let them sit 48 hours. Wiped it clean and did it again for a total of 4 times. Every 48 hours for 8 days. Dry 3 days and wax.
Sun.
Shade
Now I wont deny the smart way to control the color of Micarta is before its impregnated with resin.
But I have been doing it for about 3 years and am happy with it.
I am calling this process semi permanent. It will eventually start to wear off. The rougher you are on it the faster it will fade.
I have found that I like to re dye it about once a year and re wax it 3 or 4 times a year. Keeping it waxed makes the dye last longer and the wax is very grippy.
If you don't like the idea of having to maintain this, it might not be for you.
Try this at your own risk.
A lot of the steps are to your own personal preference. You control how rough or smooth they come out. You control how light or dark they are.
This is a very simple but somewhat time consuming process. Lots of waiting in between steps.
New Micarta needs less prep work. Old Micarta that has darkened from use and the oil in your hands will need more cleaning up to properly absorb the dye.
Step 1.
Clean and prep Micarta.
With new Micarta this can be as simple as wiping down with a warm wet rag. I like to dry it out for a few hours at least after getting it wet before dyeing.
With dirty micarta I sand it then clean it.
I like to sand mine very smooth. I use 400, 1000 and 1500 grit sandpaper. The wax not only protects the dye but provides enough grip for me.
If you like your Micarta rougher for more grip, sand less or not at all.
Step 2.
Dye.
I use Fiebings Proffesional Oil Dye for leather. I like dark brown but you can do any color you want I assume. I have done brown and black. Black hides most of the "grain"
I use a cotton rag like an old T shirt. Apply heavily leaving a bunch on it. Don't wipe it off. Let it sit for 24 to 48 hours. Then wipe it clean and re apply as many times as you want, repeating more for a darker finish. Look at the pictures below for examples.
Once you are happy with your color let it dry well before waxing. I wait 2 or 3 days at least.
Step 3.
Wax.
This is a simple cold wax process. Buy a chunk of bees wax and rub it on it heavily. It will be gummy and wont feel or look too good but then you polish it with a clean rag and it smooths out and and gives it a smooth, shiny look that helps the dye last longer.
Tip to remember. If you sand your Micarta be careful not to sand it too much. You might not realize how much thinner you make it and be unhappy in the end. You can also remove too much material around the bolts and make the bolts heads stick out too much. It can be uncomfortable poking you in the hand and you might not like how it looks.
Proceed with caution but don't be afraid to personalize it to your liking.
That's all there is to it. More waiting than work.
I have been wanting to make some OD green Micarta using this method but haven't looked for the dye yet. Not even sure they make a good one for that.
Another idea I want to try is sealing the micarta in a vacuum once its coated. Who knows might work great. Might not make a difference. Maybe someday.
Please don't hesitate to ask me any questions you might have. I want to see you succeed.
And don't forget to come back and show me how it turned out!
The Dye. Fiebings has several types of dye. I only recommend the Pro series. Its only a couple bucks more than the other kind. Worth it.
The BK16 in the picture below has Micarta I dyed with Fiebings Proffesional Oil Dye in Black.
The BK15 below has a lighter dye job but i still used the same dark brown dye I always use. I heavily applied the dye, let sit for 24 hours then wiped clean. I did that 3 times total 3 nights in a row. Then I let it dry for 3 days then waxed.
In the sun.
In the shade.
Below is my most recent one. I wanted them very dark.
This time I coated them with dye and let them sit 48 hours. Wiped it clean and did it again for a total of 4 times. Every 48 hours for 8 days. Dry 3 days and wax.
Sun.
Shade
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