How much oil do you keep on your kuks in storage times ?

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Jul 24, 2015
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I'm starting to trip over kuks in my house. When I get a kuk from Auntie its dripping with oil. How much oil do you keep on your blades? Any special storage policy ?

Just want to know what the pros do to keep blades healthy wealthy and wise 😀👍🏼
 
Many of us use stuff not prone to degrading and turning acidic as many petroleum products do, which can actually cause rust.....mineral oil, beeswax, pure petrolatum (vaseline), and my creamy goop which is a mixture of those three...wipe on, wipe off excess, and forget about it....or hard paste wax....i go for food safe on everything and handle stuff enough also try to avoid stuff due to constant skin absorbing....about half a lifetime too late, but....
 
I wax mine with McQuires car wax although any wax will work. I hang them out of the sheath and they don't get damp or subject to moist air. Leaving them dry they would probably be fine.

Users I hit with Ballistol / Mineral oil, basically the same thing.

I play / fondle mine often so if anything bad starts to happen I should catch it early on and take preventative measures.

Oh I see you wanted Pros's recommendations, disregard my post.
 
I like wax too - just be careful if you plan to cut food with your blade (use non toxic stuff).
With that in mind, I got good results with food grade silicone spray.
 
I use mineral oil and check them every couple of months. If I see rust beginning I can stop it before it starts pitting.
 
i use ballistol on everything, wiped on with a rag dampened in it, not saturated. it was designed specifically for long term storage of steel weapons and protection in field conditions as well as lubrication of moving gun parts, and removing barrel fouling . (i do saturate any antiques that come in after cleaning off any active red rust, let it soak in for a while, then wipe off)

ballistol IS food grade, emulsifies in water like ouzo, also antiseptic (for wounds), and moisturising ;) they even make a medical grade version for veterinary use, as well as human use. nice anise aroma. some do not like the aroma tho. for those, mineral oil is second best. it's great stuff.

" I love the smell of ballistol in the morning...The smell, you know that ballistol smell, ... Smelled like . . . victory."
 
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Mine has a sweet patina developed from chopping tender coconuts. I just wipe it dry and put it back. Not a spot of rust, just the patina so far. If you use it regularly u dont have to worry.
 
I just give them a heavy wipe down with mineral oil and put them back in the scabbards. I also wipe down the scabbards (but only the black leather covered wood frame ones).

Thanks for the reminder. I haven't pulled them out and checked them for a while. My wife is away Friday night so that will be my big time wild Friday night. Oh, how things have changed. But at this point I'd rather spend the night with what my wife calls my Italian Mistress (my female Neapolitan Mastiff) and my pointy sharp toys than go out and party.
 
This was some quality reading. Mucho garr see us

Fine fine stuff. So regular rem oil or such is not ideal. Frog lube and gun oil products are not ideal.

Thanks for the feedback
 
Most of them all have wax and/or mineral oil as part of the system....much better for constant handling, too...better for you.....something with a bit or lot of wax has much more staying power as for handling.....depending on where you live, ignoring can be a disaster, or simply trying to keep clean and dry when atmospheric moisture high enough the sheath retains it and rusts the blade....you need not spend a fortune....cheapest discount small store baby oil just fine....more expensive pharmacy bought food-grade mineral oil better....Vaseline brand was so safe the guy who invented it used to eat a spoonful a day part of demo....bet he never had a constipated day in his life!.....the previous mentioned can handle a bit of forgetful neglect better than machine oils such as gun/knife oils.....i personally think those react with body salts rather than absorb and nuetralize.....i carry blued firearms mex against sweaty body in summer and never any rust so long as wiped every day or two and grips removed to get at sweat under them every two or three or seven days.....using just my goop while machine oils present almost a daily speckling under such semi tropical conditions.

Also the matter of staining clothes....the stuff most folk here use will not stain anything but silken synthetics and nor do they stink to high heaven on knife/gun/hands....
 
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I use a light coat of Hoppes #9 because I use it on my firearms too. It has a great smell IMHO.. and it doesn't gum up like some oils.
 
I got some old ones and want to keep them how they are and not use them thus they are treated with renaissance wax.

My other Kukris from HI I keep treating with Lanolin. Food safe and goes well on wood and horn and leather too.

My 3 main user Kukris I spray and rub with WD40 right after use since that's what is lying around everywhere and I don't want to wait and let tree juices patina up too much. Whenever I get to it or after sharpening I clean them completely and rub Lanolin on them.

Lanolin is my favorite. Even if applied thick on the handle it makes it sticky without ripping your skin off. Also it melts a bit with handling and makes hands smoother when it soaks in. I don't have dry hands but softening all the calluses feels great.
 
Jens, same with my beeswax/mineral oil/petrolatum mix.....i use it after a shower daily and also never have dry chapped cracked or bleeding hands in winter and working flightline....

BIG difference between whatever you get on your hands you must wash off, versus, whatever you get on your hands you rub in and it's good for you....
 
I use 3 In 1 oil on the khuks that get used. They're working tools, not investments and so don't have to last forever nor impress anyone. But the wall hangers get a little mineral oil.
 
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