how sharp can chinese junk get?

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Aug 7, 2008
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My parents were out for the evening and my sister was in charge of dinner. of course---she lost track of time watching tv and she convinced me to help her cook dinner so it would be ready when our parents got home. i was chopping onions and tomatoes and the chinese kitchen knife i was using might as well have been a butter knife. so i old my sister i would be back. i spent thenext 15 mins trying to put an edge on 2 chinese kitchen knives with no success. i was using a sharpmaker fyi.
so can chinese junk just not get reasonably sharp?

so while were on the sunjest, recommend me good kitchen knives.
 
I've gotten chinese junk to whittle hair, but it just doesn't hold the edge very well. You probably weren't hitting the edge or removing nicks and rolls that were already there because the sharpmaker brown rods aren't coarse enough.
 
Indeed. It probably would have had to be reworked with a file first and then brought up to finish on the sharpmaker.
 
Getting some Shun kitchen knives by Kershaw is a great idea. If you can find some discontinued spyderco kitchen knives those would be great too.
 
A tremendous upgrade from junk, while not spending too much money, would be some Victorinox Forschner kitchen knives. Very good bang for the buck.
 
i just take a diamond hone to the edge, really large angle about 40 inclusive. it'll get sharp but lose it in about two days despite the large angle
 
I admit I tend to go cheap with my kitchen knives. I like Forschner by Victorinox. Relatively inexpensive ($20-$30), yet good enough to win "Good Overall" by Cooks Magazine in 2004. Henckel's cheaper models from Target aren't too bad; I can easily get a paper cutting edge. However, I do have a pair of no-name chinese kitchen knives somebody gave me, and they're junk. No matter what I do, I can't get a decent edge on them.
 
I have some Chinese knifes that I still use. I also have some They get sharp but don't hold and edge well at all. They are fine for low production home work and need a touch up every time you use them. The sharpmaker would be fine for that but that is about all. I use an Idahone ceramic steel on these knives. The diamond stone or some other means of more aggressive metal removal is needed to start with as previously stated. These knives are good to practice sharpening on. These knives are typically in the low 50's on the Rockwell hardness scale.

The next step up IMO would be something like the Forshners. They hold an edge a little better and are nice thin blades that get sharp easily and cut well. The still don't hold an edge very well but are also soft enough that frequent steeling (preferably a ceramic steel or your Sharpmaker) yields good results. These are roughly in the mid 50's on the Rockwell scale.

The German knives like Henkel and Wusthof are usualy heavier, thicker blade designs with bolsters and I like them for some things although I don't like blosters and usualy grind them off or reduce them. I like to chop with a heavy Wusthof Chef's knife. They are still soft steel that requires frequent touch-up with every use, but also accepts sharpening very well. These knives are in the low to upper 50's on the Rockwell scale.

The harder Japanese steel knives (Western style as opposed to traditional Japanese) are harder and thinner and cut like a laser. They hold an edge much better but may require some retraining on usage technique and are more specialized. They are usualy more sensitive to things like hard cheap cutting boards, poor technique like chopping and twisting on a cutting board, dropping, etc. They tend to chip the edges if abused where the softer knives tend to dent or roll the edge and can be straightened to some extent with a steel. These knives still respond to a ceramic or diamond steel but a smooth steel has little effect. A serrated steel shouldn't be used on any knife IMO but is devastating to these knifes. Some of the more comercially available western style Japanese kinves are Shun (by Kershaw), MAC, and Global, but there are a lot more that don't make the headlines. These knives are a lot of fun, get razor sharp, but need a little bit of special care. I wouldn't go here unless you really appreciate a sharp knife, are willing to take a little extra care of it and learn how to use it or how not to use it. These knives are usualy in the high 50's (58-60 Rc) on the Rockwell scale. I love these knives. I have a MAC 8" Chef's knife that will blow you away especialy when coming form Chinese knives. The Shun and Global's will do the same.

The hardest knives are usually traditional Japanese knives, many of which are single bevel and other complex blade and edge designs. These knives are often very specialized and delicate but very sharp (think Sushi knife). They often range in hardness form the low to high 60's on the Rockwell and some will break almost like glass if dropped or used as a pry bar. Obviously the edges may chip easily.

When you get tired of constant sharpening or feel you are wasting your talent on cheap soft knives, a step or two up the hardness scale might be refreshing.

Gary
 
I sharpened three knives (KAI Santoku (6-7"), Forshner Chef's knife (8"), and a Kabar fixed blade sheath knife (4") camping season is here) for one of the pastors at church, and I started on a Harbor Freight 1"x30" belt sander with a fresh 120 grit belt. It still took about 5 mins per knife going from chipped and dead dull to razor sharp. I do not think those knives had ever been sharpened before I was able to work on them. I created a burr on the sander and then switched to the Spyderco Sharpmaker to remove it. Ended up really sharp. The Sharpmaker alone would have done a fine job, but would have taken more time.
 
Out of curiosity I reprofiled my no brand chinese junk knife to 40 degrees, and now it retains the edge somewhat longer, long enough to be useful. Apparently 32 degrees was too ambitious for these knives.
 
I find that if you take really crappy steel, and file an agressive edge on it it will cut far better than if honed, i think its like micro-serrations.
 
I have a few Chinese made, no name cleavers that I picked up for about 20 bucks at an Asian grocery store. None of them can hold an edge as long, but each (except for one) can take a scary sharp edge. I can get the thinnest one significantly sharper than any of my more expensive European knives and within a stones throw of my Japanese veggie cleaver. I use stones to sharpen and a ceramic stick (similar to the sharp maker) for touching ups. The ceramic stick does squat if the edge is too dull.

The oddball one is no better than a butter knife. For some reason it can't take an edge no matter what i've tried.

The Forshners get my bang for buck vote. The steel goes from scary sharp to sortof dull rather quickly, but bounces back very easily with a few swipes against a ceramic hone. I’ve not used one, but Mora has line of commercial kitchen knives that may be better than the Forshner. On paper, it also uses some sort of Swedish steel at a much higher Hrc. http://www.moraofsweden.se/index.php?id=308
 
Humm, and just where do you think the famous Henkles are made now-a-days?

I just looked at a bunch of them at a local department store, big banner proclaiming FINE GERMAN HENKEL KITCHEN KNIVES. I took a look at the fine print on the back of the package and yep, MADE IN CHINA in very very small print.

GB sigh, Ain't nothin' sacred these days!
 
The key to dealing with cheap chinese kitchen knives is simple; treat them like a piece of junk.

I was doing dinner duty over my better half's sisters house. Sister in law Diane is known for having cheap kitchen knives. When she wasn't looking, I went out fronmt and stropped them on the concrete step of the front porch. Got a real sawtooth hairy edge. Went back in and it sliced and diced vegggies and trimed fat off a roast like a real knife.

Do you think the worlds poor in third world countries have paper wheels or sharpmakers?

No, they just put on a rough edge on whatever stone/sidewalk/steps that are nearby.

Works like a charm!:thumbup:
 
A while back, I bought a 'Chicago Cutlery' 6" stainless kitchen utility/slicing knife at Walmart, for about $7.00 or so. It's Chinese-made, so I originally didn't expect too much out of it. At some point, I decided to put a new, more acute edge on it using my guided (GATCO) diamond sharpener. I was very surprised to see just how sharp it was able to get. Finished off the edge using green compound on leather, then on bare leather. It literally whittles hair.

I don't really expect it to hold that fine edge especially long. But, on the upside, it's very easy to maintain with just a few passes on the strops after every 2nd or 3rd day of use. It's become one of my favorite light-duty tomato/fruit/veggie/sandwich knives.
 
Humm, and just where do you think the famous Henkles are made now-a-days?

I just looked at a bunch of them at a local department store, big banner proclaiming FINE GERMAN HENKEL KITCHEN KNIVES. I took a look at the fine print on the back of the package and yep, MADE IN CHINA in very very small print.

GB sigh, Ain't nothin' sacred these days!

If I'm not mistaken, the Henckel's 'Twins' knives (with TWO of the Henckel's man-figures on the logo) are still German-made. The ones you see in most stores these days have a single figure on the logo. Those are the 'imported' ones (also known as the 'International' line) from China or elsewhere in Asia.
 
I have a chinese K/O that I'm carrying during the gun and dangerous weapons ban in effect in the Philippines now(in case the cops steal what I'm carrying). After a reprofile on the edge pro, this knife now has a crazy edge and whittles hair like nobody's business. Edge holding is piss poor though but a few strokes on the strop gets it back.

On the other hand, I have a chinese bali that chips out when it gets anywhere near sharp, even at 50 degrees inclusive bevel angle. While sharpening, I was a little confused why I was not getting the chips out. Turned out this "steel" would chip when the bevels meet.
 
_41989536_chinese_junk_pa_416.jpg

This looks pretty sharp to me...;)

I am not really sure why you would want to waste any time if you think it is junk, but to answer the real question, you can make just about any steel pretty sharp, but it might be fleeting if the steel can not support the edge.
 
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