How to apply compound to strop?

FlaMtnBkr

FlaMtnBkr

Joined
Oct 20, 2004
Messages
4,704
I made myself a strop. It is some heavy leather glued to a piece of 2x4. I mounted the smooth side of the leather out.

I went to sears and got a stick of green CrO compound and have tried to apply it to the leather. I put some conditioner on the leather to get it soft and add some moisture. I then heated the stick of compound with a lighter and spread it on the leather. However, I am left with 'clumps' of the compound and other places it is like you can see the leather it just has a green tint. The leather is so smooth that it's almost like the compound doesn't want to stick.

What is a loaded strop supposed to look like? Does it need lots of compound or just a little? Is there a trick to getting an even distribution?

The clumps are causing high and low spots which I can't imagine are good for sharpening.

Even as it is I can tell a difference after using it which is good because I have never noticed any difference when using a white compound.

Hopefully this will get me better edges when combined with my paper wheels and I won't have as much steel lost to the wheels.

Thanks for any help!

Ryan
 
Use very little WD-40 on a rag and rub the surface, this will spread it out and not leave any clumps. Not much compound is needed just enough to give the surface a green tint.
 
I tried a few different things and could not get rid of the clumps.

So I took some of the green compound and melted it with some mineral oil. It turned into a thick paste. With this I was able to get good coverage of the leather.

Was this a bad idea? After stropping there will be a little compound stuck to the blade.

And of course I still have not had any success with stropping. I make the edge more dull.

I am running the edge into the leather and lifting the spine until it just starts to bite. I then strop the blade at this angle. I am putting very light pressure. I don't think I'm digging into the leather at all so not sure how I would be rounding over the edge.

Just trying to figure out how to get this to work right because I am not having any success.

Ryan
 
Strange. I use a simpler and more "rough" method. I just get a loose strip of leather from my old welding jacket and I rub the green rouge compound into the leather. I then strop my blade with the leather on my table(no bonding, just a loose strip).

I don't bother checking the angles or anything, and I strop with about 1-2 pounds of pressure. I typically manage to get an edge that push cuts paper with no slicing motion.

I've decided to "upgrade" to a bonded leather bench strop with DMT Dia-paste 1 micron loaded into the leather. The problem is that I'm not entirely sure what "grit" or micron size finish I get with the Sears Green Rouge compound. However, I'm sincerely hoping that it'll be an improvement because of CrO's supposed inability to abrade vanadium carbides and the rumored difficulty with very high hardness(ZDP-189) knives.
 
This was borrowed from the other knife forum place, written by "QuietOne"/Dwade:

"You can warm the strop with a hair dryer. Rub the compound on like a big crayon. Then work work work work the compound in with your hands, heat with hair dryer on low, you don't want to turn it to a runny liquid but soften it.

Then you start taking the compound off with a cloth. Rub Rub rub rub rub.

When the strop is a nice even light green glassy surface you've got it. It will have just a hint of green to it. More is not the answer with strop loading.

I much prefer using the liquid chromium oxide, or paste compounds, as it is a lot less work and much easier to judge how much I'm putting on. Available through Japanese Knife Sharpening

Recharge when your strop/hone gets looking blackish. Remove the old compound using waterless hand cleaner. Go-Jo or the cheap brand from the dollar store. No pumice in it though. Let the strop fully air dry for a day then recharge it."
 
I don't often strop with compound anymore, now use clay coated paper instead, but always found WD40 to be a real help, like knifeknut says. The solvent in WD40 dissolves the hard compound "crayon" and lets you spread out a nice, thin, even layer, and then the solvent mostly evaporates.
 
I'm not an expert and greatly pale in comparison to the knowledge of others here..

So FWIW...
I use the flesh of the leather for my strops never had trouble with loading it. I also do not stick it to a board I just lay it flat on the bench. I use ryobi white rouge stick. I also use another piece of leather to rub in instead of a rag etc.

Another thing that works well is a manilla file folder, rub a little rouge on it and strop.

Also when you strop your blades, resist the urge to "roll over" the blade for the back stroke LIFT and place the blade each time use very lite pressure with your strokes.

Peace
ST~
 
Dog of War said:
I don't often strop with compound anymore, now use clay coated paper instead, but always found WD40 to be a real help, like knifeknut says. The solvent in WD40 dissolves the hard compound "crayon" and lets you spread out a nice, thin, even layer, and then the solvent mostly evaporates.
Click to expand...

Or you could just heat the compound slightly. :thumbup:
 
Splat said:
Dog of War said:
I don't often strop with compound anymore, now use clay coated paper instead, but always found WD40 to be a real help, like knifeknut says. The solvent in WD40 dissolves the hard compound "crayon" and lets you spread out a nice, thin, even layer, and then the solvent mostly evaporates.
Click to expand...
Or you could just heat the compound slightly. :thumbup:
Click to expand...
Just so long as you don't get really impatient, and take an open flame to the WD40. :)

.
 
The "compound" in WD40 is kerosene, so any other oil or solvent will work. It should also work with alcohol.

HandAmerican sells aluminum oxide in varying sizes that is suspended in alcohol, which can be sprayed directly onto strops or any other material.

Personally, I've never had any problems just rubbing it in. You really don't need that much.
 
I like the blow dryer method. WD-40 attracts dust, leaves a smell, and is just generally messy.

The trick is to keep the heat low enough so that you don't end up with a puddle(which will soon become dried and start flaking off), yet high enough to soften the compound. I rub the compound into the leather with my fingers, and I've finally managed to get that "glassy" looking surface described.

Though I've found that my leather bench strop loaded with 1 micron dia-paste has a much better finish. I'll also look into even finer finishes with 1/2 and 1/4 micron diamond pastes.
 
I like the blow dryer method. WD-40 attracts dust, leaves a smell, and is just generally messy.

The trick is to keep the heat low enough so that you don't end up with a puddle(which will soon become dried and start flaking off), yet high enough to soften the compound. I rub the compound into the leather with my fingers, and I've finally managed to get that "glassy" looking surface described.

Though I've found that my leather bench strop loaded with 1 micron dia-paste has a much better finish. I'll also look into even finer finishes with 1/2 and 1/4 micron diamond pastes.

P.S.
I'm pretty sure the green compound bar from Sears isn't anywhere near the same grit size as 0.5 micron chromium oxide powder bought from other places.
 
Last edited:
hey
i've been experimenting with various methods and so far the best way i've found is to apply the compound like a crayon the heat it (im not much of a hair guy so i use a heater), then i spread it out using tissues. sometimes i will finish it using my bare hands as i find it gives a smoother finish.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top