How to Begin Making Custom Knives

[Grant Blade & Tool]

Hey there everybody. This is my first post on Blade Forums and I look forward to hearing everyone's advice. I'd like to ask of anyone who could help, if they could advise me in regards to how I should begin making knives. My grandfather has a shop with a good amount of tool here and there. However, I'd like to know what I'll need to make a knife. I want my first knife I make to be a fixed blade with holes in the handle to thread para-cord through. What I'd like to know, is what material I'll need such as type of metal for the knife. Also for this knife, I'd like to if possible, learn how to work with Kydex for a sheath so if somebody could point me in the right direction of getting started, I'd appreciate it. I don't want to make my initial question too over bearing so I'll let everyone get to it and teach me a few things.

 

[cadberry]

I myself recently got into refurbishing old kitchen knives and decided to give it a go making my own. I am using the stock removal method, since i don't have access to a forge. I will list relevant details for you;

I got my steel at NJ Steel Barron. Type of steal depends on your needs..I bought 1095 for high carbon and AEB-L for stainless.
North Coast knives is a fine retailer and they have a great many tutorials for knife making and kydex sheaths
Peter's Heat Treating is where I sent my blades and they all came back fine

Best of luck to you.

-Anthony

 

[Grant Blade & Tool]

Hey Anthony! Thanks for your quick response. Just like you, I plan to use the stock removal method. North Coast and NJ Steel Baron look like they could be a very helpful start.

Thanks Again!

 

[marcinek]

Welcome.

Go here: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/806-General-Knife-Maker-s-Discussion

Read.

Repeat.

 

[Charlie_K]

The first step in making custom knives is at the drawing board. If a person can't draft out their ideas on paper, then they'll never be able to get anywhere in the construction.

The next step is making a physical representation of the desired knife in a soft medium like wood, to serve as proof of concept, and determine any physical changes that the 2D representation won't address on its own.

The third step, if metalworking experience is limited, is to move up to mild steel to get a feel for how the tools will work with metal, and what will be needed to be done for shaping, profiling, sharpening, etc.

The fourth step is actually moving onto the carbon steel, and going from there.

 

[Grant Blade & Tool]

Thanks marcinek and Charlie_K. I appreciate that there are individuals such as yourselves willing to help me get started.

 

[RevDevil]

Welcome to Bladeforums.
Marcinek posted what I was about to post. There are thousands of really good discussions on almost every aspect of knife making from forging to stock removal to making Damascus, heat treating, quenching, finishing, etc.; all free for the reading.

 

[Grant Blade & Tool]

Well thank you as well RevDevil.

 

[tjm]

The first step in making custom knives is at the drawing board. If a person can't draft out their ideas on paper, then they'll never be able to get anywhere in the construction.

The next step is making a physical representation of the desired knife in a soft medium like wood, to serve as proof of concept, and determine any physical changes that the 2D representation won't address on its own.

The third step, if metalworking experience is limited, is to move up to mild steel to get a feel for how the tools will work with metal, and what will be needed to be done for shaping, profiling, sharpening, etc.

The fourth step is actually moving onto the carbon steel, and going from there.

Can you tell me specifically what kind of steel you mean by mild steel? I'm starting out too, and will be making a small forge in my back yard since I don't have a bench grinder or belt sander yet. I was going to either heat and hammer an old file or just buy a piece of steel from a nearby shop, but I never thought to start out on an easier type of metal for practice.

 

[12345678910]

The Count's Standard Reply to New Knifemakers V35

The answer to a student is different than to a retired machinist
With members worldwide, you may have a local supplier, hammerin or neighbour.
Join our community;fill out your profile with location (Country, State, City), age, education, employment and hobbies so we get a sense of where and who you are.


The basics in the simplest terms
Absolute Cheapskate Way to Start Making Knives-Printable PDF
http://www.2shared.com/document/hk4wQruA/Absolute_Cheapskate_Way_to_Sta.html


Web Tutorials
Detailed instructions http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=694673

Things I Advise New Makers Against-Printable PDF http://www.mediafire.com/?8og1ix21j9dcz4n

Handle Tutorial - Nick Wheeler-PDF http://www.mediafire.com/?02ra4do6xyzayeq
http://www4.gvsu.edu/triert/cache/articles/nw1/scales1.htm

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...Wheeler-s-Steel-*-Stuck-in-the-metal-with-you
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/956343-Damascus-integral-tag-along

Bob Egnath how to http://www.engnath.com/manframe.htm

Books
A list of books and videos http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9435307&postcount=43

BladeForums - E-books or Google books http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=603203

Books I like:
David Boye-Step by Step Knifemaking
Tim McCreight-Custom Knifemaking: 10 Projects from a Master Craftsman
Clear, well organized, available and inexpensive.


Forging Books:
Lorelei Sims-The Backyard Blacksmith - A modern book with colour photos - forging - no knifemaking.

Jim Hrisoulas
The Complete Bladesmith: Forging Your Way to Perfection
The Pattern-Welded Blade: Artistry in Iron
The Master Bladesmith: Advanced Studies in Steel

Machine Shop Basics -Books:
Elementary Machine Shop Practice-Printable PDF Http://www.archive.org/download/elementarymachin00palmrich/elementarymachin00palmrich.pdf

The Complete Practical Machinist-Printable -1885-PDF http://ia700309.us.archive.org/6/items/completepractic00rosegoog/completepractic00rosegoog.pdf
Right Click and save

The $50 knife Shop-not recommended
Great title, but NOT gospel.
Forging is NOT necessary; file and grind (stock removal)

Forget the "Goop Quench" It's Bullsh*t
Back when they used whale oil, it was still liquid oil
Use a commercial quench oil & match oil speed to steel type;
Grocery store canola oil works for some steels like 1084

Junkyard steel requires skill and experience to identify and heat treat
Forget Lawnmower blades and railroad spikes, start with a new known steel
Good heat treating needs accurate temperature control and full quench
Proper steel like 1084FG from Aldo is inexpensive and quench in Canola

Cable damascus is an advanced project has no place in a beginner’s book

The grinders are the best thing about this book, but 2x72” belt grinders plans are now free on the web


Videos

Don't be this guy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gEOTtslHARQ

Heat Treating Basics Video-downloadable
Right click and save this. Watch it once a day for 10 days http://www.archive.org/download/gov.ntis.ava08799vnb1/ava08799vnb1_512kb.mp4

Safety-video
Right click and save this. Watch it once a day for 10 days http://www.howtomakeaknife.net/FreeStuff/SafetyVideo.wmv

Many knifemaking videos are available, some better than others

The best beginner videos I have seen:
“Steve Johnson-Making a Sub-Hilt Fighter”

"Ed Caffrey - Basic Bladesmithing-Full DVD-ISO"

“Custom Knife Sheaths -Chuck Burrows - Wild Rose”
Paul Long has 2 videos, his sheath work & videos are fantastic and recommended, but more advanced-with inlays, tooling and machine stitching

Green Pete's Free Video
Making a Mora bushcraft knife, stock removal, hand tools, neo tribal / unplugged heat treat
Use a piece of known 1084 steel, not a file. This as an example of doing it by hand with few tools
"Green Pete" posted it free
Be sure to look at the other titles I mentioned too - spend some time searching knifemaking torrents

Greenpete Knifemaking Basics-on TPB
http://thepiratebay.org/torrent/499...femaking_Basics_-_Make_a_Mora_Bushcraft_Knife

How to download that video
http://www.utorrent.com/help/guides/beginners-guide

Videos for rent,read the reviews, Some good, some bad, expect to wait months and there have been no new videos in years.
http://smartflix.com/store/category/9/Knifemaking


Knife Design:
Think thin, simple and fixed
Forget swords, saw-teeth, guthooks, crazy grinds and folders for your first knife

Look at hundreds of photos
Lloyd Harding drawings, Loveless book & Bob Engnath Patterns
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=603203

Bob Engnath Patterns PDF http://www.mediafire.com/?qgx7yebn77n77qx

Start with a drawing and post it, we love photos
French curves, graph paper and erasers are vital tools
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_bHFtVNs9tWA/TEj5Quiq1ZI/AAAAAAAAAI0/rn2EoHoXpVc/s1600/The+French+Curve.jpg

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1147466-How?p=13120810#post13120810

Then a cardboard cutout template & with handles, pins and such
Use playdough to shape a comfortable handle, good handles are not flat

How to post a photo
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...AL-Displaying-your-photographs-on-BladeForums



Draw Filing Demonstration
YouTube video -Draw Filing-for a flat finish http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dec78RQsokw

Nick Wheeler- Hand sanding 101 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I4x4QLpfnk

Steel
The “welding steel” at Home Depot / Lowes is useless for knives
Forget about lawnmower blades ,files, railroad spikes and other unknown junkyard steels
For the work involved, it is very cheap to buy and use a known good steel
You will spend more money on sandpaper or soda pop than you will for steel

If you send out for heat treating, you can use
Oil quenched O1, 1095, 1084
Or air quenched A2, CM154, ATS34, CPM154, 440C, Elmax plus many others.

For heat treating yourself with minimal equipment, find Eutectoid steel and quench in Canola oil.
1084FG sold by Aldo Bruno is formulated for Knifemaking, Cheap & made for DIY heat-treat.
http://njsteelbaron.com/
Phone # 862-203-8160
His telephone service is better than his website.

Suppliers List
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=699736

Heat Treating
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9143684&postcount=7

You can send blades out for heat treating at $10 or $15 per blade for perfect results

Air Hardening Stainless Steel Only
Buck Pau Bos -Be sure to check the Shipping and Price tabs
http://www.buckknives.com/index.cfm?event=bio.paulBos#
http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/privacy.php#services

Oil Hardening Carbon Steels and Air Hardening Stainless Steel
http://www.petersheattreat.com/cutlery.html
http://www.knifemaker.ca/ (Canadian)

FAQ's
http://www.hypefreeblades.com/faq.html

1095 is a bad choice for a beginner with limited equipment to HT themselves
1095 is "Hypereutectioid" and needs precise temperature control and proper fast quench oil Like Parks 50 or Houghton K
Kevin Cashen - 1095 - hypereutectoid steel
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/673173-Working-the-three-steel-types

If you are sending one or 2 knives out for heat treatment, use 154-CM or CPM-154 CPM-s35vn Elmax, and ship it out to TKS -Texas Knifemaker Supply
It's the cheapest way to do 1 or 2 due to minimum charges


Quenchants for Oil hardening steel
Forget the Goop Quench and Motor oil, especially used oil

Use commercial quench oil & match oil speed to the steel type
Explanation and classification oil speeds
http://knifedogs.com/showthread.php?28197-Hardening-II-Quenching

Grocery store canola oil works well enough for your first knife-if you use the right steel like 1084

Brine and water are cheap for "water hardening" steels W1 and 1095, but use fast oils Parks 50 & Houghton Houghto Quench K
If you use water or brine, expect a broken blade

Hot steel beats plastic, Don't quench in a plastic pail

Glue – Epoxy
Use new slow setting 30 min high strength epoxy to attach handles and seal out moisture
Slow epoxy is stronger and gives you time to work
prep, measure, mix are key in glueing.
Surface Prep is vital, drill tang holes/ grind a hollow, roughen the surfaces with abrasive or blasting is best
Ensure the surface is clean including fingerprints, wear vinyl or nitrile gloves
Use Acetone or Blasting
Don't over-clamp a “glue starved joint” is weak - adhesive is squeezed out

West Systems G Flex http://www.westsystem.com/ss/g-flex-epoxy/
Find it locally http://www.westsystem.com/ss/where-to-buy/
Brownell's Acraglas
JB Weld-leaves a grey line


Grinder / Tools

Hand Tools
You can do it by hand with files and abrasive like the Green Pete video.
Use 1084 instead of a file, spheroid annealed steel is butter soft

Stacy - 10 Tools
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1049666-Ten-Tools?p=11983527#post11983527

Filing jigs
http://www.flemingknives.com/imagesPrime/FileStation/KPicB007.jpg
Http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8486/8152684286_312b9fc8da_b.jpg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9iNDRwwBQQ#t=330

Grinders
A professional three or four wheel 2x72 is worth it
In my opinion, variable speed and a small wheel attachment are essential on a good grinder.
Tracking problems are usually solved with belt tension. It needs to be way tighter than you first think.

Entry Level Grinders
Sears Craftsman 2x42 belt grinder
Low Speed Modification Craftsman 2x42 belt grinder http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qfYT_m2Tw0


Commercial Production 2 x 72” Belt Grinder Reviews
http://www.prometheanknives.com/shop-techniques-3/grinders


DIY 2 x 72” Belt Grinders

KMG Clone Free Plans
http://www.metalwebnews.com/manuals/knife-grinder.pdf

NWG No Weld Grinder $25 plans
http://usaknifemaker.com/plans-for-the-no-weld-grinder-sander-nearly-50-pages.html

EERF Grinder (EERF =“Free” backwards)
http://www.wilmontgrinders.com/Pages/EERFGrinder.aspx
http://blindhogg.com/blueprints.html
http://polarbearforge.com/grinder_kit.html

What Belts to buy?
Every maker has a different preference, new belts come out all the time, search for recent threads.
Ceramic, trizact and structured belts are expensive and have long life. Aluminium oxide are cheap and wear quickly
Some belts have rigid backing, J-flex have soft backing and can blend curves.
Blaze and Cubitron are popular


VFD Variable Speed made simple

Step pulleys are not as cheap as you may think
Maska steel pulleys are good, plus shaft, bearings, belt

It all adds up to 1/2 the price of a sealed class NEMA 4 VFD like a KB Electronics KBAC-27D

I like direct drive with no belts, a VFD and 3 phase motor for about $200 over the price of the step pulleys with fine instant control.

NEMA 1 VFD’s will keep your fingers out, but the metallic dust intrusion will smoke it.


Motor
3 phase 220v 1.5 HP motor, TEFC, frame 56 or 56C,
RPM is up to you some use 1700 RPM at double speed.
Make sure it has a footed base for the KMG and NWG, or a C flange face mount for Bader, Bee, Wilton and GIB styles.
I get them on ebay, even with paying $100 for shipping to Canada I save $ on used motors

The 1.5 HP combination is the most common
It allows you to plug into any 110vac, 15 amp outlet.
A 2 HP motor requires a 220vac input.


VFD
KBAC-27D
http://www.kbelectronics.com/Variable_Speed_AC_Drives_Inverters/AC_Drives_NEMA_4X.html
http://www.kbelectronics.com/manuals/kbda_manual.pdf
Use the Distributor Locator to find a local source, online sources may be cheaper.

There are cheaper units, but the only VFD I have found that runs a 1.5 HP motor on a 110v 15 amp input is the KBAC-27D

It is NEMA 4, sealed from metal dust

Good community and company support, manuals, hook-up diagrams, photos and settings.
If you buy a bargain vfd, you're stuck with a chinglish manual and ridiculous programming.

Travis W reports running a 2 HP on a 110v circuit, but I haven’t tried it.

Hookup is simple
http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/VS-setup.html


Safety Equipment
Protect your -Eyes, Ears, Fingers, and Lungs – remove jewellery and use safety gear.

Respirators
Chronic lung disease and cancer really suck the joy out of life.

If you can't breathe, nothing else matters.

Wearing a mask and glasses on the top of your head doesn't Count.

The minimum I would consider are silicone half masks with a P100 Filter
The silicone masks are softer and fit better
3M 7500
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediaw...Ox_Uev7qe17zHvTSevTSeSSSSSS--&fn=CH7500FP.pdf

and North 7700
http://www.amazon.com/North-Safety-770030L-Silicone-Respirator/dp/B002C08YCW
http://www.amazon.com/North-7580P100-P100-Particulate-Cartridge/dp/B000UH6PSE/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_b.

Use a VOC & P100 combo cartridge for acetone and glue fumes.
Prefilters can snap over the main filter for longer life.
There are 3 sizes of face piece, get fitted in person

Shave, also test the fit every time.

For beards
3M PAPR
Resp-O-Rator
3m Breathe Easy
Trend Airshield Pro
Air Cap II


Search

This searches BF well.
http://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=011197018607028182644:qfobr3dlcra

Get rich making knives ?
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...knife-making-worth-it?p=11980504#post11980504

Visit a shop in person
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1166688-How-to-get-a-shop-invite

V35 July 23, 2014

 

[Fletch Helical]

Personally I'm not a fan of the mild steel route. Mild steel can be picked up in places like Home Depot and Lowes, it's just a bar of steel than doesn't have enough carbon content to harden. I'm more from the school of thought that if you're going to go through all the steps necessary to make a knife, make the best thing you can out of something that will function as a knife when your finished. Buy a known steel, carbon or stainless whichever you prefer and make your design to the best of your ability. When it's done at least you'll have a functional tool, not a worthless piece of metal that looks like a knife. Keep in mind you don't have to go the heat and beat method to make a knife, you can do stock removal and send it to a place to have it professionally heat treated. As far as tools you can make a knife with a hacksaw, files,sandpaper, and spring clamps to hold your material as you work. Those are the bare minimums needed to make a knife if you're going to farm out the HT. Keep in mind while power tools like grinders can make the job go faster, they also speed up and magnify your mistakes. There was a member here who made his first knife clamping a piece of wood to the back of his deck to serve as a work rest and he spring clamped the blade to that while he filed and sanded it.

Who cares if it doesn't come out exactly like you wanted it? Chances are it's not going to be the only knife you make, so you cut out another blank and make another and another and each one will get better and better. You can make the same pattern hundreds of times if you want until you get it like you pictured it in your head. Each time it will be better and better, there are plenty of incredibly talented makers on here who posted pictures of their first knife and you'd swear it was made by a child when you compare it to some of the pieces they post pictures of that they make now.

 

[i4Marc]

Yep. ^^^^^^ If you are going to go through the work of making a knife shaped object you might as well make it out of something that will make a good knife. Good steel doesn't need to be expensive. In fact, have you noticed the prices for crap steel at Home Depot? That stuff is NOT cheap. I have a couple of jars of failed knife attempts. Once in a while I look through them and find one worth cleaning up or modifying to turn it into a decent knife now that my skills have improved. Use good steel. even if you don't have the skills now you will sooner or later. You can often come back to earlier work and find a way to fix it.

 

[tjm]

A lot of that material I can't download without buying a subscription to some kind of service. Is it available elsewhere?

 

[12345678910]

A lot of that material I can't download without buying a subscription to some kind of service. Is it available elsewhere?

None of those are paid link services.


which one are you looking at ?


Start with the Ad Blocker Plus add on for Firefox or Chrome

Then you use the "free download" option.

Have a pop up blocker on, and the "Ad Block Plus" add on for Firefox or Chrome, or you may get a stock market book sales pitch

Don't click any of the girls, or the flashing buttons


1- UN-check the box for download accelerator.

2- Wait for the 10 second countdown

3- Click "Download for free" button

4- Select your folder and save

Do not use the Accelerator

It may be in other places, use the google.

 

[Cody Hofsommer]

Look at the stickies in the WIP(work in progress)/virtual BBQ. That should keep you busy for a while. That and the counts post, you should be able to make a heck of a knife.

 

[Evan Miner]

welcome to blade forums. there is a lot of reading to do before you start your first knife don't let it over whelm you. like most people here will tell you read the stickies. make sure you draw out our idea, post it here so you can get some helpful hints on what can be changed to better improve the design. the insight of the makers on this page is well known and the knowledge is endless if you take the time to read and learn from what people have to offer. best of luck to you.

 

[tjm]

Sorry, was away from civilization for a bit. Thanks for the tips, mostly for blade design I'm just copying things I saw on youtube vids or around here. I had a grinder (or access to one at least) but I'm down to using files now, maybe a belt grinder if my neighbor is in a good mood. I will retry the links when I get back to my own computer - the .gov may frown on using theirs...

Anyway I appreciate the help. I hope to have some things to post soon

 

[zhyla]

I'm just getting started myself. I started with a small paring knife out of 1/16" 1095 steel as a first blade. I think starting small (and thin!) is a good idea, less material to remove means it is faster and less frustrating -- and the sooner you move on to your second blade. I am using a cheap HF 1x30 belt sander, HF portable band saw, files, and a tiny crap vise. I think I need to get some better files as they give much better control than the belt sander. Whatever you do, and I think this is covered in the big sticky thread, do not pick up an angle grinder and say "hey, this will work!"

So I got the blade made and then got all busy figuring out how to build a forge for heat treating. It's probably a better idea to send blades out for heat treat but, eh, I guess it just kind of interests me. The forge route has proved to be more complicated than expected, but I'll get it up and running soon.

 

[TnTom]

[/URL][/IMG]
The forge is pretty simple grab a brake drum, a little steel from the local scrap yard, and some hardware fitting. No welding required though cutting a hole in the plate is best dine with plasma cutter.

[/URL][/IMG]
A cap on the bottom to dump your clinkers,

[/URL][/IMG]
Get it hot

[/URL][/IMG]
It aint pretty buttt...

[/URL][/IMG]
Get it hot and....

[/URL][/IMG]
This was made from a planer blade.