How to choose the right wood for a walking stick?

myright

myright

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Alright fellas - I spend quite a bit of time in the outdoors but as you know from some of my questions I am relatively still a noob at some bushcraft type chores. I suck at tree and plant identification and my trap building would probably render me helpless if ever stuck somewhere. Luckily I can fish, as long as there's water ;)

My plan, later today if the rain lets up is to take myright jr. out to some trails. I've found as he gets heavier, he's now 23lbs, and is riding on my back that walking with a stick helps quite a bit. Normally I do not like to walk with anything in my hand, but I like the stability a staff provides over uneven terrain with a moving child on my back.

My question to you guys is - What type of wood should I look for when trying to find a piece to bring home and let dry. Should I be looking for deadfall, green wood, freshly fallen trees, cut from a standing tree, etc.?

My dad has a kick a$$ walking stick that is a twisted type branch that he bought. I really don't want to buy anything, I'd like to make it myself so any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
 
My right - I have been making a TON of walking sticks lately.

This is a VERY good question. Let me try and help - I will just do this in thoughts...

1) Whatever wood you choose, if you choose it green - take the bark off right away - getting the bark off after it drys is much harder. However, when you take the bark off - you don't want it to dry too fast - it tends to split. A basement may be best for this - and then take it upstairs. It will not take long.

2) Dead standing is the best. If you are in an adult woods, find a 5-10 year tree (the size you want) that was choked out from the lack of sun and then cut it down. Take some bark off and test to see if it is punky. If it is - choose another one.

3) I hate taking green wood - but I think if you honor the tree - it is fine, and making a walking stick would be a great way to honor the wood. I find taking green wood is easier, you can get the bark off, and you know it is not punky. However, finding the right dead standing makes the drying a non necessity - so if you want a stick NOW - go for dead standing.

4) I have worked a LOT of woods for sticks, and I am working some very hard wood now. WOW is it hard, and heavier. If you get a harder wood - go smaller in diameter. You can certainly get away with it. If it is standing dead. Cut the section you want (cut it about 4 inches too long on each end - as it may still dry and if it splits - it tends to do so on the ends) and then test your weight on it. If it is green - it will bend a little more. If there is very little bend - this is fine. If there is no bend - you have a very strong stave. The weight will determine if you want this stave for yourself or not. Every ounce on the hand will tire you more. Thinner is usually better - you can always wrap the handle to get your diameter up in size. I will be MORE than happy to give you a tutorial on how to leather wrap a handle and make it look cool.

5) When you get the bark off and it is dry - you will need to clean it up. You have a couple of options - use the knife to get it basically right - and then sand it down... or use the knife for the fine work too.

Here is what I found. If you want a show peice - sand it. If you want a user - only use the knife. The knife compresses the wood at the cut - and makes it more durable I think.

6) You will have knots and branch locations. The more knot you leave - the more detail it will have. Don't cut off too much at these 'imperfection' points. If you wanted a stock straight peice - go buy a rake handle. ;)

Also - when cutting branch locations - always cut TOWARD the branch location. If you cut away - it will tend to tear the material and look like ass. You will then need to clean this section up - and that can ruin the looks.

7) If you think the stick looks too light, and you think the stain will not help it look darker, take a torch too it. Move the torch quickly and evenly and you will give most wood a very cool look - also you will harden the wood. Once you do this - stain it.

8) You can use a copper pipe end cap as a bottom cap. They come in 1", 3/4, and 1/2 inch sizes. If you need anything larger - your stick is too big IMHO. Measure the bottom and get the size closest. Go with the smaller cap and cut down the stick if you have an option.

When you get it to fit right - epoxy it on (after your finish is all done) and then put a screw in the bottom. This will stop the stick from mushrooming out at the base. This helps a lot if you use a softer wood.

9) I have made sticks out of a lot of woods - Oak is great... but Maple is one of my faves. If is very light so you can do a lot of different stains on it - and it is very strong for the weight.

10 ) Remember - you can also take a branch of a larger tree. You don't need to take a whole tree to make a great stick.


That is all I can think of right now. Good luck,

TF
 
Thanks very much for the well thought out response, TF. Everything is going to be wet today so we'll see how much digging around I can do with my kid on my back. There is quite a bit of maintenance going on in the forests near me so there is usually freshly cut trees laying around. I'd rather not mess with a live standing tree just to find a stick.

That comment about a rake handle had me crackin' up. I don't want anything that looks perfect, I want a cool looking staff that is, more importantly, stable and tough.

I'll take you up on the handle wrap tutorial once I find some wood to take home and dry out. My plan is to find three or four to bring home, snap some pics and have you guys tell me what you think.

I really like the look of wood that is done by knife only so I probably won't take sandpaper to any of it for now - maybe in the future.

I'd love to make one for my mom, so once I get better and the look nicer that's what I'll be doing.

I'll be posting much more in this thread as the days go on.

Thanks again.
 
Hickory is a pretty sound choice. Locust is another that will make you a stout, servicable walking stick. :thumbup:
 
Osage Orange is real good . I find a straight branch , cut it green, then strip the bark. Its extremely strong . They can be cut quite thin allowing for a strong and lightweight stick. I also prefer a fork left on one end. Theres a lot of barbed wire around here. The fork can be used to widen the gap on a fence to slip through.The other end can be stuck in the ground and use the fork as a hanger. Pin a snake to the ground.

Thorny Locust {big Thorns} is another good choice and is a pest . Saplings grow straight.
 
If you are only going to be using the knife - and you have a lot of green wood to choose from - here is what I would do.

Find the green stave you want - cut it roughly to size - and leave it in your garage for a week.

Cut the bark off - use a thin bladed slicer for this, if you have the choice. I use my FT Kephart for this - I can take the bark off a walking stick over 6'5 inches in a matter of minutes with it.

Then I switch to a Scandi grind if I have one. It is a 'hungrier' knife IMHO and takes off more wood.

When I get close - I go over the whole stave with my Kephart (or Gunny) again and make little scallops all the way up the stick. This compresses the wood - cleans everything up - and makes it look great.

Round the top (for looks - and to help with cracking) and put the cap on.

I then stain it - put two light coats of satin poly on it (Helmsman spray) and I am done.

TF
 
OH - one last thing.

Do you want a walking pole or a walking stick?

Walking stick sizes are determined by holding your arm bent at the elbow - forearm parallel with the ground. Cut the stick a few inches above where your thumb holds the stick.

Staves are longer - better for really uneven ground - cut that at armpit level.

TF
 
I used to make alot of walking sticks, and I always really liked black birch saplings. They are easily identified by bruising or cutting a small piece of bark and smelling it-it will smell like root beer.

I used to like this wood because it was light, strong, but retained a bit of flex even once it was bone dry.

The endcap that TF outlined is what I usually did. Another method that's very similar is to take a section of copper or steel pipe the right diameter, about 1" long, and fit it to the base of the stick. Then drill a hole through the pipe and the stick about halfway up the pipe piece. Put a nail through the hole, cut it off and rivet the end over. This won't protect the tip of the stick from moisture like the pipe cap will, but it will keep the tip from mushrooming.
 
I have made a couple hundred and I have used every kind of wood that grows in ND. I do them pretty much the same as the others except that I put the rubber cane or chair leg tips. They last a long time and are cheap to replace. Many of the ones that I have given away are used on floors and side walks, the rubber tips give them better traction.

Some of the fruit tree woods work great too. Many are very light and strong. I have to use a walking stick when off roading.
 
I have a Hickory stick that I found laying on the ground. It is not long enough, more like a cane. It had a bulbous end that fit my hand well, so I've carried it for a long time. It is my day hike stick as it is quick handling and hard for protection and prying as well. I am amazed at how strong Hickory is.
Probably my favorite wood is Osage. It is a very hard wood that is very durable. It weathers very well, too, which is why you see so much of it still standing after decades as fence post in my area. Another nice thing about Osage is that it looks nicer the more it is exposed to sunlight and the oils in your hand. It sort of "self finishes". One thing is for sure, if you can find a straight enough section of a dead one, you won't find it punky like Talfuchre describes with other types of wood.

Both Hickory and Osage can crack when drying though, especially if you try to rush it.

That is some great stuff, Talfuchre. Walking sticks can be so helpful and useful out there.
 
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you can also get 1.5" round oak dowels, about 4 - 5 feet long, tenon taper the bottom and install a LEE VALLEY 3/4" or 1" brass cane tip with epoxy and choose a spike or rubber tip. I like to use a drum sander to shape the wood, then sand it well with 100, 200, 400, 800 grit, stain it and seal it, then sand again and buff with 0000 steel wool and wax.
 
Talfuchre said:
OH - one last thing.

Do you want a walking pole or a walking stick?

Walking stick sizes are determined by holding your arm bent at the elbow - forearm parallel with the ground. Cut the stick a few inches above where your thumb holds the stick.

Staves are longer - better for really uneven ground - cut that at armpit level.

TF
Click to expand...

Walking pole - I like mine a bit longer so I can use them going down hill or for creek crossings, prying, etc.

My sister has an osage tree in her back yard that she want's to cut down. I guess I'll go cut a few good branches off of it before they get rid of it.

I'll probabl be over there swimming tomorrow. I'm getting all excited now...:D
 
I hope I can get to the tree before they get rid of it. I'll try and swing over there tomorrow.

They hate the fruit that comes off the tree so they want to get rid of it....
 
Talfuchre said:
OH - one last thing.

Do you want a walking pole or a walking stick?

Walking stick sizes are determined by holding your arm bent at the elbow - forearm parallel with the ground. Cut the stick a few inches above where your thumb holds the stick.

Staves are longer - better for really uneven ground - cut that at armpit level.

TF
Click to expand...

what about those of us with T-rex arms where a few inches above the thumb IS the armpit?

I'm trying to be serious but have fun with it, I have short arms. I prefer sticks to staves, two arms to take weight is better in my opinion.
 
Talfuchre said:
MyRight.

If you get some Osage - let me know - I would LOVE a stave of it!

TF
Click to expand...

I'm going to swing over there tomorrow and check it out. I'll post to this thread with the results.

I'm hoping to God that they haven't cut it down yet. They are getting a pool house put in and tend to clear a lot of land during construction.

If it's still up I'll snap some pics and post them up. I've got no problem sending you stuff if you want it. I was going to say send you wood..... but that sounded a bit ghey....
 
Talfuchre said:
If you are only going to be using the knife - and you have a lot of green wood to choose from - here is what I would do.

Find the green stave you want - cut it roughly to size - and leave it in your garage for a week.

Cut the bark off - use a thin bladed slicer for this, if you have the choice. I use my FT Kephart for this - I can take the bark off a walking stick over 6'5 inches in a matter of minutes with it.

Then I switch to a Scandi grind if I have one. It is a 'hungrier' knife IMHO and takes off more wood.

When I get close - I go over the whole stave with my Kephart (or Gunny) again and make little scallops all the way up the stick. This compresses the wood - cleans everything up - and makes it look great.

Round the top (for looks - and to help with cracking) and put the cap on.

I then stain it - put two light coats of satin poly on it (Helmsman spray) and I am done.

TF
Click to expand...

How bout some pics of the steps for those of us who can't read??
 
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