How to flatten scales etc.

Fish30114

Fish30114

Joined
Jan 5, 2014
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I'm sitting here this morning looking at the 3 taped up and two injured untapped fingertips and wanted to see how you folks are doing something I do often, and wonder how you all approach this. The culprit is my disc sander--I bought before getting info here, so I ended up with a Delta 12" PSA disc sander. I almost always take a scale to the disc to get it as flat as I can, I hold the scale in my fingertips and invariably about every time I slip and get bit--sometimes pretty hard, by the disc. I am currently having issues typing with both of my middle fingers taped up. I am thinking folks may say I need to get a surface grinder--so I will be open to info about that--currently I've looked at Travis Wertz(sp?) surface grinding attachment, he says he will make one with an 1.5" arm so It would fit my soon to be purchased North Ridge tools grinder. If there are other ways to skin this cat I'd be very open to input--I haven't thought of a way to hold the scale to take my fingers out of the picture yet either :rolleyes:
 
hot melt glue a small piece of wood for a handle onto the scale. peel it off when you are through.
 
The best option is probably to get a disc sander with a VFD so you can slow it down. If I was brainstorming this problem in my own shop, the kinds of things that would cross my mind are: possibly using a strong double stick tape, like carpet tape (although that stuff really sticks so maybe something not quite as strong), with a "handle block" attached to the outer surface of your scale so you have a better grip on the piece and your fingers won't get too close to the spinning disc. I might think about taking my whole handle material block (if you didn't buy pre-cut scales) and sand the outer surfaces flat while you have a larger block to hang onto then split it down the middle to form your scales. But the most common way to do it is sanding by hand. Mount your sheet sandpaper to a granite surface plate, thick piece of glass, scrap piece of granite counter top or other flat surface and sand your handle scales against that.
 
I use a 2x72 36 grit belt and don't let go of the scales. But I have stuck a finger into a surface grinder...
 
Laurence, I just got some 'skins' from you I haven't done this work since I got them...yet. I like the hot glue to a stick idea. And yes i4Marc, I do use that approach when I get a larger block of materal. I also bog down this grinder on a pretty regular basis. I am wondering what disc sander ya'll would recommend if I were to replace the Delta. I remember a fella posting about the Tru-Grit grinder, he seemed pleased, but I don't remember which one he went with. I also wonder if the Tru-Grit will accept the Nielsen disc system--it sounds like a winning system to me.

Thanks for the help folks!
 
I also use them for when I already have a boo boo from doing something stoopid when I didn't have them on, like nicking a finger while prepping food in the kitchen.

The compression helps you heal faster.
 
I use a 4 x36 horizontal belt/disc sander that sits on your bench and tips up as well. In the horizontal position with 36 grit belt it is easy to lower a wood scale onto the moving belt with the fingers of both hands gripping the top edges of the scales. If you lose your grip the scale will launch however but usually does no damage. A few days ago I had to flatten scales made from camel bone that were fairly thin and rounded on the top. The solution was a 6 inch strip of gorilla tape applied to the tops with the tape pinched together in the middle to form a "handle". I pinched the tape and lowered it on the belt and no problems at all. I bought a Steel City brand 4 x36 in 3/4 Hp just to knock the scale off new steel before surface grinding or flattening on my platen. These machines are not expensive and make quick work of getting things flat. You are less likely to tilt your work when grinding horizontal I have found. Just my opinion. Larry
 
An easy effective way to go is the heavier type masking tape and even in the 1 1/4" width. Double it back like a "T" . It will work great even for metal You have probably used it already. It works well for this also.
Frank
 
Good info on the healing process Laurence--I may need to wear Rhino Skins full time! :)
Larry, that's good scoopage, I definitely agree with you on theory on grinding horizontal--I may just pull the trigger on an basic 4x36 just for the purpose---hmmm.....
 
Woodworkers use double sided 3M tape to hold small or thin things while shaping. The bond is very strong, but easily sliced off with a thin knife blade. How striong is the bond - I have used the tape to put bowl blanks on the face plate and turned the bowl with no screws in the bottom.

For things like scales, a 2"X1"X4" block of wood with the 1" side sanded flat and smooth to 400 grit will allow a strip of 1" tape to be run down that side and stick a scale on it. You may even be able to peel the scale off and use the same tape to do the second scale. This will work just like a grinding magnet does to keep fingers and belts away from each other.

You can get the tape at the local hardware store, or order online.
 
I use my surface grinding attachment on the tw - 90 and hold the handle material down with Tesa double stick tape. Very quick and always flat!!
 
I'm coming home with bleeding thumbs every day... grinding .13" folder blades and .1" frames on the disc sander. I ordered a KMG surface grinder attachment from Travis Wuertz two days ago and can not wait for it to arrive.

I'm good grinding even 1/16" thick stuff on the platen but getting it dead flat and parallel for folders is a different story. I need the disc... will try the tape trick for now.


Alan Davis - good tip on the tape, I was wondering what brand would work well for Ti/etc. Thanks!
 
Good intel folks--thanks--I will definitely get some double stick carpet tape or such--good endorsement on the TW surface grinding attachment Alan, thanks!
 
Tape, hot glue, or even superglue make a good holder. A hot air gun and some acetone makes short work of clean up.

Keep the tape on the scales, not the fingers! :)
 
"I use a 2x72 36 grit belt and don't let go of the scales. But I have stuck a finger into a surface grinder... "I do this but use the little flat bar stock rest that you mount across the belt. Set it just high enough belt clears and there's no way board will slip out on you. I'm assuming you could use a rest on a disc sander the same way! Yeap I only learned this after using up a band aid box of such!
 
Fish,
Scott at www.trugrit.com has a variety of Quality Ceramic Belts for Discs, 4 x 36" and 6 x 48" sanders for those talking about flattening metals and A/O for Woods. Sometimes it not on their site so call if you don't see it for your size.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
...How striong is the bond - I have used the tape to put bowl blanks on the face plate and turned the bowl with no screws in the bottom...
Click to expand...

That's brave! I would have tried this a few years ago, but I had a spalted maple spindle blow up on my lathe. Sounded like a shotgun going off while someone hit me in the chest with a baseball bat. Shrapnel everywhere. I'm sure the tape holds well but that scared the crap out of me. I am all into overkill making sure things can't come off my lathe now.
 
Randydb said:
That's brave! I would have tried this a few years ago, but I had a spalted maple spindle blow up on my lathe. Sounded like a shotgun going off while someone hit me in the chest with a baseball bat. Shrapnel everywhere. I'm sure the tape holds well but that scared the crap out of me. I am all into overkill making sure things can't come off my lathe now.
Click to expand...

Randy,
That does sound like a life changing experience! :eek: I had a similar one when i set a jacket I was wearing on fire from grinding carbon steel and didn't know it till I saw the flames & smoke licking up to my eyeballs because I had a half mask respirator on. :eek: LOL!
 
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