How to: G10 scales for my Benchmade 585 mini barrage

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Nov 20, 2013
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This is my first post on this forum, so I hope this is the right place to post this. Also, I'm not sure if it allows post editing or if I'll just have to make follow up posts below, so here it goes...

Like many, I was disappointed by the texture of the scales (grips) on my mini-barrage 585 after receiving it. This is one of the reasons so many people opt for the mini-griptilian.

Spring assist was a must have for me, so I decided to look into new scales for my newly acquired blade. The options were:
1. spend about $108 for a set of custom G10 scales
2. Stalk and hunt down a rare 585-1 (shot show exclusive with factory g10 scales)
3. Upgrade to the 586 with half aluminum/half G10 scales (don't like the aluminum)
4. Make my own

So, being a broke college student, I opted for #4. I found 1/8" g10 material with a nice texture here and bought it for about $9 shipped:
http://usaknifemaker.com/handle-mat...-36/g10-black-peel-ply-coarse-medium-1-8.html

I also wanted to pick up a set of the coarse texture, but they were out of stock. Maybe in a couple weeks...
 
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Using my T6 torx head tool from the benchmade blue box kit, I pulled off one of the factory scales and used them to outline the pattern and hole positions with a scratch-all on the peelable portion of the G10. Then, I drilled pilot holes with a 1/16" drill bit in the appropriate places.

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Or maybe you can custom make the bolsters for your 586 in G10.
 
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After that, I enlarged the axis lock holes and connected them to form the slot.

I then cut out the outline of the scales with a hack saw and finished off the edges with a variety of hand files (a dremel with a sanding drum can also be used)

I had to mill out the back of the scale to allow for the axis lock spring, but didn't have a end mill bit OR a mill. I ended up making shallow indents with a 1/4" drill bit then ground off the tip of a damaged "O" size drill bit to act as a makeshift endmill. Using my drill press, I worked the indents into a full pocket until it was deep enough to prevent the spring from hanging up.

I also had to make pockets for the liner screw heads and pin.

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Lastly, I peeled off the top layer to expose the textured surface which allowed me to countersink the holes for the screws that hold the scales on. Here's what the first one looks like AT THE MOMENT. Please read below.

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I need to work on my file angle next time and leave the scales a little bit oversize to do the final finishing ON the knife.

I still want to round all the edges and add the finger scallops like the original scales have, so stay tuned for more pictures, drill sizes, depths, etc.

I also have to look into thread inserts for the pocket clip on the other side and I'll be doing a low rider pocket clip soon.
 
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Very cool! I want to attempt making my own scales just for fun one of these days.
 
hey, tip:
trace the outline on the bottom of the g10, match the exact shape to the bottom and work it reverse of how you did it, that way it stays true, vs being slightly off. looks cool though, and im guessing you will probably sand the edges round.
im not sure for the barrage.... but it has liners, DO you need push in thread inserts...? doesnt the clip thread right into the liner?
good luck! if you keep making scales they just get better and better each time. pick up a dremel tool and make some sweet patterns into plain g10 for added appeal.
 
Cool, so far so good.
What about the other side?
The other side has the spring hub in it, that will require a lot more hollowing/mortising.
Oh and $180?
Wow! That must be a Cuscadi price.
 
Thanks guys!

Pete, good idea. I guess it would make the opposite side though since I would be tracing it backwards. With non-textured G10 that you would be doing custom texture/grooves, it would probably work fine. (all those pretty multi-layered color g10 scales) I was hoping the pocket clip threaded into the steel liner, but alas, it does not. It threads straight into the scales. I know keyman has done some thread inserts on a benchmade, but I forget which thread i spotted it in. Maybe something like these would work: http://www.catalogds.com/db/service?domain=ezlok&command=browse&category=inserts_for_soft_woods

I've got a dremel, air rotary tool with carbide bits and stone bits, and a rotozip that I can try next time. I'm not really looking for the fancy look though, I wanted something with tons of grip and a low profile. Similar to this, but black.

Keyman! Yeah, that's a Cuscadi price. I thought that it would be closer to $50, but I got sticker shock. I also emailed you, but didn't get a response and was bored/impatient so I went toward making my own after a couple days. I know this is a part time hobby for you, and it's fun to try new things.

The other side is about the same, I'll try to grab pictures soon.
 
"Keyman! Yeah, that's a Cuscadi price. I thought that it would be closer to $50, but I got sticker shock. I also emailed you, but didn't get a response and was bored/impatient so I went toward making my own after a couple days. I know this is a part time hobby for you, and it's fun to try new things."

Sorry about that.
I do get a lot of emails.
If I don't answer, it doesn't mean I'm blowing you off.
I most certainly do not get all of the PM's that are sent to me.
They just don't go through.
Emails, I get so many that I sometimes get confused as to weather I have already responded, or not.
Sometimes it takes a few days for me to get back to return an email, thus the confusion.
I have a line of 12 waiting presently.
It pretty much takes up every weekend I have, and then some.

Did you already take care of the side with the spring hub?
For threaded inserts; I would recommend doing a google search for "EZ-lok".
I think the ones that I'm using came from MSC supply.
I'd love to see the finished product.
Again, I'm sorry I didn't get back to you.
 
Like I said, I know you're a busy guy. I do appreciate you taking the time to visit my thread and respond!

I linked to the EZ-lok site in my last post, I may order something similar from www.mcmaster.com soon. It sounds like benchmade used 2-56 screws for their pocket clips, so I'll get a variety of types to choose from.

I'll take more pictures tonight, I promise! The scalloping and the other side scale will probably get worked on Friday or Saturday this week.
 
I have a set of Golden Amboyna scales for my 585 from Cuscadi and paid $85.00...felt it was very fair for the quality of the scales...shipping is not in this price...

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Here's some pictures of the knife when disassembled. You can notice the small spring tang on the right side of the pivot and the groove for it in the scale. It doesn't use the scale to operate the assisted blade opening though, so the groove in the scale doesn't have to be structural.

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Nice pics, have you done the other scale yet?
You know, the one with the hole and the spring hub. :(
 
Just got the other scale "milled" out this morning. Had to flatten a junk 1/2" drill bit and work the flutes to create another "endmill". I'll grab pics of it tonight. I left it a little bit oversize so I can work it down to size while on the liners. I also started doing the scalloping on the first side, but I'm not sure that I like it... :(

While you're waiting for those pics, I did a new pocket clip setup. www.usaknifemaker.com sells a nice lowrider pocket clip, but it's out of stock: http://usaknifemaker.com/ti-pocket-clip-formed-tumbled-040-low-rider-split-tail.html
BUT they do have the blanks for about $2.50 less than the pre-bent version: http://usaknifemaker.com/ti-pocket-clip-blank-045-low-rider-split-tail.html

So, I drilled the blank and bent it up. I want to get it tighter to the knife so it doesn't stick out so far while it's in my pocket, but I'm pretty happy with how much more low-profile it is now. (my last blade was a gerber crevice with a stock low rider clip)

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Is it normal for the blade to be a little off center?
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How far the clip sticks out so far:
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The view from other people's perspective:
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Tah-Dah! Pictures of the other scale all milled out. Also, pictures of the first scale with roughed out scallops and rounded edges. I still want to widen the scallops, then finish smoothing them out with some sandpaper.

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if you can get a dremel with a little sanding barrel you can get those scallops alot cleaner. same with the curvature you have going.
 
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