How to get good browning?

Nabok

Nabok

Joined
Dec 16, 1998
Messages
219
I’ve always liked the browning on muzzleloaders and some old Japanese metalwork, tried the hot plumb brown on a few projects, but haven’t been happy with the results, the product itself is a bit nasty to work with, and I had a bottle leak and eat a couple of blades in progress. So, is anyone set up for cold browning willing to offer tips, suggestions for solutions, a guy that used to build muzzleloaders suggested Laurel Mountain Browning, any other commercial or home brewed solutions to look at. Thanks

Todd
 
Laurel Mt. is about as good as it gets, as far as I'm concerned. You can get a fairly smooth finish, or a rougher aged finish, depending on how you work it.
 
I have always found birchwood caseys plumb brown worked best for me. Warm the parts with a propane torch or in the oven until spit sizzles and apply as eenly as you can. repeat for a deeper finish and voila , done. Mind you a couple times voila turned into aahh @#$%$## ! Paul
 
I have not had much luck with it either and the fumes are pretty nasty. By the time I get an even coat it is almost black. But a couple hours in 20% vinegar and some light scrubbing with an SOS pad will completely remove it so you can try again (and again).
 
Supposedly boiled down human urine, or you can just stick it oputside on a rock and pee on it gives a nice brown finish.
 
Now there is some advice I will probably just take your word on. LOL. I have no doubt that it is effective and better for you than most of the chemicals used in the regular commercial products. I assume the boil down process takes place outdoors to. That would be the last time I used mommas stove for my projects. She has been very understanding ,but, I am sure if she asked what I was doing and answered "Boiling down some urine" that would be the end of me and her stove.:D
 
You can do a rust brown finish working cold all the way. The Birchwood Casey product is good or go to www.trackofthewolf.com and search for browning solution. The metal has to be totally free of oil or grease and it's best to use gloves as you work to keep finger oil off. Apply the product cold to the clean metal. With small pieces I hang them on wire in a cardboard box with a wet towel on the bottom. Let them sit over night. Use oil free 0000steel wool and gently remove the top layer of rust that's formed. Repeat the process untill you get the color you like. Last step is to boil in a water/baking soda soution to stop the rust. Top off with light oil or wax. This can give you a finish from reddish brown to darker plum brown and is very durable.
Rick
 
Thanks guys, I think the hot brown I had was probably Birchwood-Casey. I’ve had good luck with their other products, but between inconsistent results and the fumes I’d like to try something else. Having parts eaten was my problem for having a messy bench, but something milder even if it takes longer may be worth it, for extra control of the process. Looking around it seems some brands are at least temporally off the market and if I read right most require hazardous shipping that is twice or a bit more than the cost of the product:(.

Sam, I have been told that horse, especially mares urine was a traditional way of browning. My brother raises mules, but collection could be a problem, and I have good neighbors, but boiling it down is probably beyond what even they would tolerate.

Todd
 
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