How to make Nordic Sheaths?????

[Marion David Poff]

Hey y'all.

Any of you know any good reference sources for how to make Nordic style sheaths?

Like the one that Ray Garcia sells with the Skookum....

Like how do you do the dangler strips?

Like how do you do the dangler strips that make a belt loop?

Thanks,
Marion

 

[Del Raso Knives]

Marion, I saw a thread in "sheaths and such" Should be helpfull.

Peter

 

[BarberFobic1992]

The nordic dangler sheaths are actually the one I have done the most. I am certainly no expert, but I have a pretty good idea of how to get it done. I actually took pictures of the process the other day, now I just need to upload them and write the tutorial. I can e-mail you when it is up if you like.

 

[SpookyPistolero]

The nordic dangler sheaths are actually the one I have done the most. I am certainly no expert, but I have a pretty good idea of how to get it done. I actually took pictures of the process the other day, now I just need to upload them and write the tutorial. I can e-mail you when it is up if you like.

I was just gonna say, "BF will be along shortly..." He does some very good sheaths in this style. Rugged but attractive. Here's a pic of one he did for me, with knife:

 

[Marion David Poff]

Thanks guys.

And BarberPhobic, I look forward to it.

Marion

 

[stingray4540]

I find this tutorial to be one of the best I have seen. This is were I first learned how to make western style sheaths.

The first tutorial is for making scandinavian sheaths, and if you scroll down there is a tutorial for western sheaths. http://www.mamut.net/gjknives/

 

[akennedy73]

some of these may be helpful:

http://thompsonsknives.com/sheath_instructions.html

http://www.ragweedforge.com/sheath.html

http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2403

 

[Shotgun]

This has motivated me to do my own. I think instead of buying a sheath for my knife I have on order, I'm gonna put the money towards tools and a strip of leather.

 

[Marion David Poff]

I find this tutorial to be one of the best I have seen. This is were I first learned how to make western style sheaths.

The first tutorial is for making scandinavian sheaths, and if you scroll down there is a tutorial for western sheaths. http://www.mamut.net/gjknives/

Great stuff there, that is probably the link that will be the most helpful....

And in this other thread....

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=7074247

Somebody suggested Bo Bergman's book, hopefully I can find it without paying through the nose.

Marion

 

[Samurai Stu]

Hi there, I caught the thread from a friend and have made many Scandi swinger sheaths. I can offer tips on the way I do it. It is not necessarily the only or even the best way to do it but I usually have great success.

 

[TedPalmer]

Marion the link posted above: http://thompsonsknives.com/sheath_instructions.html
is where I learned the belt hanger style you are referring to. Very simple and useful on a variety of sheath styles. I have used it many times over the last several years and once on an actual skookum sheath.
The dangler loop instruction is down at the bottom of the page.
be safe... Ted

 

[stingray4540]

Hi there, I caught the thread from a friend and have made many Scandi swinger sheaths. I can offer tips on the way I do it. It is not necessarily the only or even the best way to do it but I usually have great success.

Wow, beautiful knives!

What kind of wood did you use on this handle? Really well figured olive? It's gorgeous!

 

[Marion David Poff]

Hi there, I caught the thread from a friend and have made many Scandi swinger sheaths. I can offer tips on the way I do it. It is not necessarily the only or even the best way to do it but I usually have great success.

Yeah, any tips you would like to share would be very appreciated.

First off, how do you get that raised line in the bottom part?

One of my next projects will be a Nordic style knife, maybe a puuko, and I will definitely make a swinger sheath for it. Probably one with the wood on the inside.

Marion

 

[Marion David Poff]

Marion the link posted above: http://thompsonsknives.com/sheath_instructions.html
is where I learned the belt hanger style you are referring to. Very simple and useful on a variety of sheath styles. I have used it many times over the last several years and once on an actual skookum sheath.
The dangler loop instruction is down at the bottom of the page.
be safe... Ted

Yeah that one does seem pretty good.

I also like this one... http://www.mamut.net/gjknives/subdet1.htm

Thank you

Marion

 

[stingray4540]

First off, how do you get that raised line in the bottom part?



Marion

First I'd just like to say I do not assume to know how he made the "raised" part, so I'll let him answer that question, but I do have a theory.

A lot can be done to the shape of leather through "wet forming", in fact it is likely you will do this when finishing any sheath.

When you get leather wet, it becomes extremely pliable, and will harden back when it dries. So, if you wet your leather and hold it into whatever shape you desire, even if you are just forming it to the shape of the handle so it holds the knife better, when it dries, it will stay in that configuration. I hope that makes sense?

Trying it yourself will probably help explain it better. Take a small piece of scrap leather, get it wet, bend it into some weird shape and hold it that way until it dries, then you'll see what I'm talking about.

 

[Samurai Stu]

Yeah, any tips you would like to share would be very appreciated.

First off, how do you get that raised line in the bottom part?

One of my next projects will be a Nordic style knife, maybe a puuko, and I will definitely make a swinger sheath for it. Probably one with the wood on the inside.

Marion

There are two ways to get the ridge in the center of the sheath. Firstly, when you make the insert that protects the blade you can mill or file away all excess material leaving an 'integral' ridge. This is the way I usually do it. Then simply round the other side on the grinder and smooth off with sand paper. When you insert it into the leather (or stitch leather around insert, depending on your method) simply wet the leather and use your fingers to bring out the shape by applying pressure on either side.

Second method is simpler. Make your insert, grind it round and smooth with sandpaper. Then make a ridge to match the shape and simply glue it on. The advantage of doing it this way is that you can get creative and make interesting patterns rather than just straight lines.

Here is another tip to make the insert.
Some makers use the two piece method of carving out the inside of two pieces of wood to recieve the blade. This is then rounded and smoothed. I found this too time consuming and also the wood sometimes retained moisture which rusts my carbon steel blades. I learned the following through trial and error though I'm pretty sure I'm not the only one who does it. In South Africa we have something called Supaboard. It's a lot like Masonite. Cut three pieces that will fit the size of the blade. Placing a flat edge against the Guard sketch a left, right and center on each piece. With your center piece take a scroll saw and cut out inside the lines then using a file open it up to the lines. Test fit your blade as if you were inserting it into the sheath. If it touches file a little more until it fit snug. If you oversize save it for a larger knife and make another. The cut out the left/right pieces leaving about 5mm of material on the outside of the profile line. Now place one of the sides onto the center piece aligning the cavity with the profile line. Make sure it is accurate then epoxy glue it on. When cured take to the grinder and grind the profile neat. Then apply the other side and glue, then profile. You should nor have a squared shape of the profile of the insert. To finish simply grind off the corners making the insert smaller. When you are done soak the insert in any wood sealant. The Masonite (supaboard will suck it up like a sponge) leave to harden and you have a water tight insert for your scandi knife.

When I make another I will post pictures of the process.

Hope it wasn't too boring for you.

 

[Samurai Stu]

First I'd just like to say I do not assume to know how he made the "raised" part, so I'll let him answer that question, but I do have a theory.

A lot can be done to the shape of leather through "wet forming", in fact it is likely you will do this when finishing any sheath.

When you get leather wet, it becomes extremely pliable, and will harden back when it dries. So, if you wet your leather and hold it into whatever shape you desire, even if you are just forming it to the shape of the handle so it holds the knife better, when it dries, it will stay in that configuration. I hope that makes sense?

Trying it yourself will probably help explain it better. Take a small piece of scrap leather, get it wet, bend it into some weird shape and hold it that way until it dries, then you'll see what I'm talking about.

This would work on most sheaths but because of the insert the leather will tighten as it dries making it difficult to keep its wet formed ridges. This method works great for relief wet forming when putting shapes and images onto the sheath.

Here's another tip when drying a scandi sheath. When all has been stitched together I am never comfortable with the loose fit that the leather provides so I use the following little trick. Wrap your knife in cling wrap (not sure what you call it in the states) about three times. Soak the sheath till its very pliable. Insert the blade into the sheath so that the guard sits snug against the mouth of the insert. Using your thumbs form the leather around the piont of entry of the insert. This gives it that curvy shape. Then do the same with the rest. Use a vice with smooth jaws and clamp up the stitching at the back. This tightens the leather even more. Use a round dowel to shape the back and neaten up all the lines.
Now take the wet sheath with the knife still inside and place it in front of a fan. Not hot blowers, just a normal fan over night. In the morning remove the knife and unwrap it. If you wrapped it properly it will be rust free. The sheath should be very dry but not as hard as if it were baked. Place the knife back in and it should fit with a satisfying click. With the wrap removed the sheath is fractionally larger than the handle so it will have a perfect fit.

You can also oil the knife first to protect from rust if you are a forger like me.

Hope someone found this interesting.

 

[BarberFobic1992]

Great tips Stu :thumbup:

 

[Dannyboy Leather]

Post expired.

 

[hollowdweller]

Try this:

http://www.thompsonsknives.com/sheath_instructions.html