How to polish a blade without any power tools?

H

huugh

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Jul 16, 2005
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Hi,
I'd like to polish out the blade of my Camillus CUDA EDC (it's currently stonewashed, so I probably have to remove this finish first)
I need to remove deep scratches (yes, from sharpening/rebeveling :(). I don't have any power tools handy so I need it to do it by hand.

Thanks for your help.
 
Hey Huugh,
I think I would use wet/dry paper up to 2000 grit (or higher). I would start at 320 or even lower just to get it smooth. Then work up through the grits so the scratches get finer and finer until they disappear. Now, the knife would be dull (and that's even better so you can work quickly without worrying about that sharp blade) and I wouldn;t sharpen it until after the polishing was complete. After the final wet/dry grit, I would go to a very coarse cloth, wrapped around my finger, and loaded with coarse rouge or other polish (maybe simichrome or Brasso [maybe]) and just go round and round in little circles all over the blade. This would take the longest time.

Surely you'll get some good ideas but that above is just what I'm thinking I would do in your shoes.
 
320-2000 grit then mothers mag polish or any mciro fine sub micron particle size polish. The key to a perfect polish is a perfectly smooth piece of metal. Sand on a piece of glass if possible.
 
I just finished a tune up on a beat up Buck 521. It was solid but had been scratched, dropped and sharpened. The sharpening was crude, not on a grinder, but a lot of nasty scratches. It's only 420 HC, probably not as hard as your's, still pretty hard. Use the wet/dry like these guys said. At the local auto parts store they carry 220, 400, 800, 1000, and 2000. The auto body and paint supply carries more different grades, although I don't think they're necessary. The first thing is to get rid of all the scratches. Use the 220 until the finish looks totally brushed or the next finer grade of sandpaper will just polish the scratches. Tear the sheets into strips about an 1 1/2" wide and tear them into 1 1/2" squares. I say tear them because the ragged edge doesn't leave scratches like a cut edge does. Fold those into a V and work them back and forth from tang to point while squeezing the sandpaper between your thumb and forefinger. Change your paper often. If you move to a finer grit too soon, you only polish scratches. Working into progressively into finer grits to 2000, if properly done, will give you a better mirror finish than a production factory. Custom makers might go 2500 or into microns but I'll bet those knives don't get used very much. Also, used 400 grit doesn't turn into 800 grit. It may seem smooth, but it still leaves 400 grit scratches. Throw used sandpaper away. I only use polishes on bolsters, they don't seem to have much effect on a blade. After the blade is polished, a few strokes over a fine stone will have you shaving. Be careful, watch your fingers and good luck.
 
Most of the above information is correct.
Use sanding blocks made of wood or another hard substance.
Don't use Brasso, and sand at a slight angle to the previous grit.
 
It's easy, huugh.

I'm in the process of cleaning up an old Case fixed blade I found in the street, all beat up.

Start with some silicon carbide wet-n-dry paper at about 320 grit on a wooden block in the sink, with some water trickling over it. Work the blade lengthwise over the block until the scratches are gone. Then switch to 400, then 600, then 1000, 1500, 2000 grits, then polish with a rag and polishing compound.

It's important to do the sanding on a flat surface, not freehand, so the finish stays perfectly flat.

Good luck,
desmobob
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Most of the above information is correct.
Use sanding blocks made of wood or another hard substance.
Don't use Brasso, and sand at a slight angle to the previous grit.
Click to expand...


Agreed! The sanding block gives you a much better backing. Personally, I would at least attemopt to start out with 1500 grit wet/dry. If this paper won't get the scratches out, you can always go to a coarser paper. But the coarser papers might put in their own scratches, so I would avoid 320 and 500 (IF POSSIBLE)

I haven't seen your blade, and you might need to use 180 grit, but I would certainly try to start with the finest grit that will get the job done. When you're nearly finished, .5 micron CrO on a piece of leather will give you a mirror finish,
 
Lets say you have power tools? Then what? If the blade is in good shape and say stainless steel, would you go right to the buffing wheel?
 
No, the finish, scratches, and pits still need to be removed. Unless you have very specialized equipment, hand sanding Buffing will slur imperfections, not remove them.
 
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