How to prevent rusting while sharpening a knife -- questions

Bladenoobie1

Bladenoobie1

Joined
Jul 20, 2012
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1,261
Hi,

A custom scandi I ordered in O1 steel from a BF maker should be arriving within the next week and a half or so and I have a few questions regarding sharpening. I used to own a 52100 hunter (now sold) and I remember while sharpening it on an arkansas stone with water, microscopic dots of rust would actually from while sharpening. 52100 does have a very high carbon content and from what I've read is very prone to rust. Since then, I have used only oil on my arkansas stones and I can't go back anyhow.

That aside being that I will be using waterstones to sharpen my knives (putting oil on my glass stones will likely destroy it) and obviously, water and I'm concerned that I will have issues that I had with 52100 carbon steel. Does anyone have or had a similar experience to mine and can give me some advice? Should O1 not rust as easily as 52100 steel? Or should I just take extra caution to not sharpen for extended periods of time and dry the knife frequently?

- BN
 
Dry sharpening? Or maybe an oil stone? I experienced that too and I always thought I was just spending too much time sharpening.
 
hank_rearden said:
Dry sharpening? Or maybe an oil stone? I experienced that too and I always thought I was just spending too much time sharpening.
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I don't like the thought of dry sharpening. Talk about clogging up the stone. I used to have a marine tuff cloth but its all dry now and I've remoistened it with mineral oil/spirits several times already so I feel that a lot of the rust preventing agent is washed out. Anyhow I'll be purchasing another one soon and what I'll do is apply a nice coating of marine tuff cloth prior to any large sharpening sessions.
 
You can use soapy water on the arkansas stone if you used it with oil. Just don't use straight water. Dish soap, simple green, any type of degreaer soap. It'll stop the oil from glazing when mixed with the water.

If you are going to use water stones for sharpening, you can use the slurry from one of your finer stones and a cotton rag to polish it when you're done. Then oil like usual.
 
fervens said:
You can use soapy water on the arkansas stone if you used it with oil. Just don't use straight water. Dish soap, simple green, any type of degreaer soap. It'll stop the oil from glazing when mixed with the water.

If you are going to use water stones for sharpening, you can use the slurry from one of your finer stones and a cotton rag to polish it when you're done. Then oil like usual.
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I used to use dish soap and water with my arkansas stones but stopped because of rust issues. I thought that once you use oil, you can never use the water/soap again. Right now my only good stones for reprofiling are my waterstones. My arkansas stone is good for something like touching up or finishing. Its a tri hone with a medium, hard, and black arkansas stone.
 
I used to use oil on my arkansas stones, but switched to simple green. The detergents actually clean out the oil as well as the swarf from what i can tell, So you don't end up with that slick oily water mixture if you try using water on it's own on an oil stone. Every once in a while i will go back to oil to play around. Don't take my word for it though. If you use your arkansas's mostly for touch ups, invest in a 4" soft pocket stone and play around with that. I keep one in my car for that reason. But i have taken to using it dry and a quick scrub with grit wet/dry to keep it clean and give it a little more bite.
 
A old trick is to add baking soda to the water. It changes the ph of the water and will prevent rusting.
 
Nope, I have added baking soda and bleach to the tub my waterstones sit in and they are fine. 1 tablespoon of baking soda to 2-3 gallons of water should do the trick. If not add more. That or sharpen faster :D
 
I just rinse the blade often and wipe it off if I'm putting it aside. (carbon steel kitchen knife + water stones)
 
I experience the same thing. Steels like 52100 or O1 will rust during water stone sharpening, for sure. I've never used the baking soda trick, but it sounds intriguing! I will try that. In the meantime, I have a simple trick I use. Cut a tomato in half. When you notice the rust spots starting, rub them off with the tomato. You may have to rub with some pressure for more stubborn stains. Rinse, repeat. I discovered this myself. Not sure why, but the tomato will get rid of the light sort of surface rust that happens during water stone sharpening. And if you destroy one tomato half, you've got the other half to de-rust with... or to do test cuts with (tomatoes are the ultimate test for a kitchen knife)... or to eat!
 
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Never used it, so don't know anything about it, but there's actually a rust inhibitor for sharpening you can add to the water...

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Probably an expensive solution for home sharpening, but as Knifenut indicated, there's probably a "home remedy" alternative.
 
The tomato is acidic, so it will oxidize the clean steel underneath, and dislodge the rust. But if left in place, it'll contribute to more rust (acid accelerates it). Same thing can be done with any acidic food or product, such as lemons, grapes or anything vinegar-based as well.

The baking soda suggestion seems good to me, to slow or prevent the rust in the first place. It's somewhat alkaline in pH (above 7), so it makes sense. I haven't used it with just water while sharpening, but have used it to neutralize the acidic reaction on steel after forcing a patina (w/vinegar), and also to scrub off the rust produced in the process. Works very well for that. :thumbup:


David
 
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knifenut1013 said:
Nope, I have added baking soda and bleach to the tub my waterstones sit in and they are fine. 1 tablespoon of baking soda to 2-3 gallons of water should do the trick. If not add more. That or sharpen faster :D
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I was going to say sharpen faster. I have actually had one knife get tiny spots while sharpening, and had no idea what caused it. Good to know I wasn't hallucinating.

I would think a light oil could work to stave off rust while sharpening. I have heard of a lot of people using WD-40 for sharpening. I sharpen dry, so I can't comment on it, but there might be something to it.
 
dkb45 said:
I was going to say sharpen faster. I have actually had one knife get tiny spots while sharpening, and had no idea what caused it. Good to know I wasn't hallucinating.

I would think a light oil could work to stave off rust while sharpening. I have heard of a lot of people using WD-40 for sharpening. I sharpen dry, so I can't comment on it, but there might be something to it.
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Well I can't put oil on a japanese waterstone. I would ruin it. I see how baking soda may reduce the rate of rusting as it would make the water more akaline or basic, but aside from that sharpening faster is the other option. I am getting a new marine tuff cloth so maybe that will be enough. I could solely use my arkansas stones to sharpen the knife, but the cut extremely slowely and for giving the scandi grind a polished finish, I need the likes of my 500 grit shapton glass to remove the belt grind lines.

On another note, how effective is baking soda in your use in inhibiting rust? Talking to knifenut1013
 
You can maybe force a patina before sharpening.
Most my knives are carbon and I usually just keep a damp towel nearby and wipe if its gojng to be set aside.

Knife thqt is being sharpened, I usually rinse every few strokes or so.

I also ordered a custom 01 scandi from here and still waiting...
 
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