How to remove rust pitting on high carbon steel...

[Red's Edge]

Hi Everyone,

I'm finishing cold work on a Damascus (1095/15N20) shank. Unfortunately, I haven't worked on for 2-3 months and rust is beginning to form, mainly in the coarse 60 grit grind marks on the edge. I've been storing it rolled up in a polyester/nylon microfiber cloth.

Although I had known one must keep a high carbon steel blade oiled constantly to keep away rust, I've never made a knife let alone anything made of steel.

I heard mineral oil was a good kind to use and if rubbed on the rust, would pick up the rust. I've rubbed some on with a cutip, but with minimal success.

I'd like to know...
1. Should I continue my current method?
2. Is there a more efficient method (must be very cheap, though I'm willing to learn anything)?
3. How can I prevent this issue from reoccurring thoughout the knife fabrication process?

Thank you very much,

Red's Edge

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

The rust will have to be scrubbed a bit, with mineral oil or WD-40. I've liked soaking with WD-40 for several hours (even days in a sealed container) with WD-40-soaked paper towels wrapped around the blade, to loosen up the rust. Then scrub it all with fine steel wool or a stiff brush (wire brush, toothbrush, etc) to get all the rust off. Keep flushing with WD-40 as you work, and don't quit until you no longer see any red/brown staining on your rags/towels used to wipe the blade.

Might also be able to scrub at least some of it off with baking soda. This works better if/when the rust is newly-formed (still wet, as if after patinating the blade with acid/vinegar), but may not be quite as effective if the rust is more firmly set in place. May not hurt to try it though.

To prevent it from recurring, just make sure the blade is completely clean & dry (& stored as such) every day. Oiling the blade certainly wouldn't hurt, after it's completely clean & dry. I'D AVOID wrapping the blade in a towel, if you can't guarantee the environment is dry. Otherwise, the towel may trap & hold moisture against the blade. This is a similar caution to storing carbon blades in leather sheaths, which can create rust for the same reasons.


David

 

[Red's Edge]

Hi David,

Thanks for your response.

Here are photos of what it looks since I tried my first mineral oil rub.

To get a better sense of what you wrote about (because I'm a better visual learner) I searched youtube aswell. I found someone using a toothbrush and baking soda, removing the rust very quickly.

And I also found something truly amazing to me, that using a piece of aluminum foil & water and rubbing the surface of the rust, the aluminum foil generating heat transformed the oxygen from the Iron Oxide into the Aluminum, creating Aluminum Oxide, which actually makes the Aluminum corrosion resistant. Who knew?

This is apparently why aircraft do not rust, since they are made of aluminum & why mercury is illegal to carry on planes, as it will very quickly reverse the corrosion resistance of aluminum causing it to "rust" very quickly, within hours...

The the knife cleaned equally well with aluminum foil. I realized too, that the Sharpening Stone, commonly known as a Norton India Stone is made of Aluminum Oxide and is one of the hardest substances known to man outside of Diamond. Crazy.

Just figured I'd share

I will go to work cleaning with baking soda on one side and try the aluminum foil on the other and get back to you

I will no longer carry the blade in the towel, but I do need a method for storage and travel out of sight so as to avoid issues from authorities. In MA any knife blade longer than 2.5" is illegal to carry outside your home. Although you are allowed to own any knife of any blade length, as long as it stays in your home.

Any suggestions for travel and/or storage?

Thanks again

Red's Edge