Recommendation? How to replace a clip on leather sheath?

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Mar 5, 2020
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I picked up a sheath that was made nicely but the maker never worked with clips before, only belt loops.

The clip he "made" was a strip of soft stainless that surrendered like a lone French solder guarding the Ardennes in 1940, I digress...

I don't mind using a shorter shank and an extra rivet to fill the hole left by the old clip.



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Sorry can't help with the question.... Just wanted to say that the reference to the french surrender gave me a good chuckle... always a good time when making fun of the french.
 
I would order from DLT. Admittedly, I don't know if it will work with the existing holes.
 
In order to replace the rivet, you will need to either remove the outer piece the clip was attached to or go through to the inside of the sheath so the rivet can be set. The latter will leave the blade exposed to the metal but it is at least possible. Removing the outer piece leads to the problem of putting it back on, since I know of no way to sew it on with the sheath already assembled. In theory, you could cut the threads holding the sheath front and back together and pull it apart, restitch the front and sew it back together. However, if the maker used really good cement, it might be very hard to do.
You might be better off looking for a new sheath.
Randy
 
Clips have to be heat treated in order to not lose their spring tension with use. If you can find a clip close to the length of the original, then installation of the new clip will be relatively easy (even if the new clip is different length). Use epoxy to secure the new instead of a rivet. I use JB Weld 5 Minute to install all my clips between the layers of my fully lined sheaths. Your situation is similar. Just put some epoxy on the clip and slide it in the slot, then if the length is sufficient put a dot of epoxy in the old rivet hole and into the hole in the clip. This can all be done without any disassembly. Let it cure completely and it will be there until Hell freezes over.
 
Clips have to be heat treated in order to not lose their spring tension with use. If you can find a clip close to the length of the original, then installation of the new clip will be relatively easy (even if the new clip is different length). Use epoxy to secure the new instead of a rivet. I use JB Weld 5 Minute to install all my clips between the layers of my fully lined sheaths. Your situation is similar. Just put some epoxy on the clip and slide it in the slot, then if the length is sufficient put a dot of epoxy in the old rivet hole and into the hole in the clip. This can all be done without any disassembly. Let it cure completely and it will be there until Hell freezes over.

Just used your JB Weld trick on a welt yesterday for a filet knife with a very upswept point that kept poking through the welt.
 
Just used your JB Weld trick on a welt yesterday for a filet knife with a very upswept point that kept poking through the welt.

Dave for this are you using the two part mix j b weld ? And is it being applied to the face (inside) of the welt ? I usually beeswax and burnish the inside of my welts.
This stuff ?
175549A9-AD5C-4FBF-A0DB-6CD19EB81A93.jpeg
 
Yep, only I buy it in the industrial size tubes because its also part of how I attach my bolsters. I had used superglue before for particularly pokey knives and Paul had mentioned he used JB Weld for the same deal. Just thought I'd try it. This sheath is a butterfly type with a welt at the top too for that stupidly finely ground tip. Not my knife but I do admire the grinding, However if ya rocked the knife just right that tip would stick right through the upper welt. So we'll see if the JB Weld will contain this bad boy.
 
I don't like or trust clips. I would take the sheath apart and add a leather belt loop and then restitch the sheath.
 
Speaking of the French, one of my favorites is about the oild boy who advertised a French LaBell military rifle on Craig's list. His description: "Excellent and pristine condition, never fired, dropped once."
 
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