How to take proper care of a mirror-polished carbon steel blade?

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Sep 6, 2007
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Hi folks, I was wondering if some basic cleaning + oil is enough to avoid rusting on a high-carbon steel blade with no coating? Or do I need something more "complicated" than that? Is WD-40 good for that? Also, recommend me some good grease/oils and maintenance products.
:confused:

Thanks in advance!
 
I clean mine with oil, and leave a thin coat on the blades. WD-40 is good for water displacement, w d --- water displacement. I just prefer some regular 3 in one or sewing machine oil, or vegetable oil, nothing fancy. If you use vegetable oil it makes it a little more palatable when your slicing fruit, bread etc. I keep it simple and it seems to work for me
 
+1

And it depends on whether you're talking long term or short term storage. If you're putting away your hunting knife until next October, I would recommend a coat of heavy grease, such as Lubriplate, or RIG. (Rust Inhibiting Grease)

Just for a few weeks, pharmacuetical grade mineral oil works well, as does any salt free cooking oil.

Ben
 
mineral oil is also good, foodsafe.

are you using your knife or is it a queen? if its a queen, then a light oiling and wipedown every once in a while should be plenty to keep it nice and shiny.

if its a user, i wouldn't be too too worried. i rarely oil my opinel or case, and have no trouble keeping them rust free. they have developed a gray patina. if you want to maintain that mirror finish, you may have a tough time on a user.
 
The knife in not even here yet, it is on its way... Not, it won't be a shelf-queen (maybe for the first week LOL). But it will be my first big outdoors knife in high-carbon for camping (chopping and food preparation). So I'm a bit worried about rust because it's my first non-stainless knife for serious outdoors use.

Thanks for the tips.
 
i find that the tendency to rust is overrated. unless you are in a particularly corrosive environment, just a wipe down before you stick it back in the sheath should be fine.

if you use it for a week, say, for food prep, you may notice the blade turning a gray color. this is called a patina, and is good. it helps to prevent against further rusting in most cases. you can get a head start on the patina by using mustard or hot vinegar, but based on what i have read these patinas tend to rub off when you start using the knife. if you cut up acidic foods (apples, onions, tomatoes, etc) i have also heard of burying the blade in a potato overnight.

at any rate, don't stress over the carbon. if you start running into trouble, then take more care of it. also, don't stress over any discoleration, it is part of the patina proccess.
 
i find that the tendency to rust is overrated. unless you are in a particularly corrosive environment, just a wipe down before you stick it back in the sheath should be fine.

if you use it for a week, say, for food prep, you may notice the blade turning a gray color. this is called a patina, and is good. it helps to prevent against further rusting in most cases. you can get a head start on the patina by using mustard or hot vinegar, but based on what i have read these patinas tend to rub off when you start using the knife. if you cut up acidic foods (apples, onions, tomatoes, etc) i have also heard of burying the blade in a potato overnight.

at any rate, don't stress over the carbon. if you start running into trouble, then take more care of it. also, don't stress over any discoleration, it is part of the patina proccess.
So that means I should forget about keeping that mirror polish?
 
Depends on how it was applied. You'd be amazed at the gleam some 2000 grit emery will produce, so much that most polishers stop at 600 to 800. I have several (more or less) identical tap blocks of steel that I polished to varying grits after making them and set them on a living room shelf 8 years ago. Just checked. The 400 block is gray, the 800 still looks good, but I can still (dimly) see myself in the 2000 block (kind of like an old style chrome bumper).
 
There are lots of good things you can use. I use white technical grease...it's used in the food industries for equipment. Just wipe on a thin coat. I have a old timer two blade hunter i have used for over 30 years, the blades are so dark they'er almost blue!
But, its so sharp I can shave a deer. This grease can be found at any home depot/hardware store..it's in the plumbing section,for lubing the washers in faucets. It's the best Ive found, and it's edible,with no taste.
Dont worry about the color change...its the nature of fine carbon steel to darken...I like it better.

Brad
 
if you use it for a week, say, for food prep, you may notice the blade turning a gray color. this is called a patina, and is good. you can get a head start on the patina by using mustard

at any rate, don't stress over the carbon. if you start running into trouble, then take more care of it. also, don't stress over any discoleration, it is part of the patina proccess.

A week:eek:. I remember buying an Imperial hunting knife some 30 years ago that had a gorgeous mirror finish. I had it for 2 days and was very proud of it. I made a sandwich and spread mustard using the knife, and to my horror the finish went gray in just a few minutes before my eyes.

Ugly knife today, but the gray patina looks okay. This knife became part of the kitchen cutlery after that incident, great cutter by the way.
 
Hi folks, I was wondering if some basic cleaning + oil is enough to avoid rusting on a high-carbon steel blade with no coating? Or do I need something more "complicated" than that? Is WD-40 good for that? Also, recommend me some good grease/oils and maintenance products.
:confused:

You're in luck. These days, there's lots of good options.

First, WD-40. WD-40 is less of a lubricant, and more of a solvent (WD stands for Water Displacing). It works well for cleaning a knife, but isn't that great at preventing corrosion. I used to use it frequently as a first stage for knives that are really dirty, especially folders with grit deep in their guts. I generally wipe it away entirely, however, and use something else for protection.

Oil or grease is another traditional option. It's very effective while it's on the blade, but it's biggest problem is that it won't stay there under use. If you intend to reapply after use, or you're dealing with a piece that will mostly be for show or storage, it works quite well. The other problem I have with these, is that they tend to attract dirt, dust, and other particulates.

Modern metal protectants are your next option. There's a bunch of these that have come out in the last 10-15 years, and most of them work quite well. Among the ones I've used and had excellent luck with are Tuf-Cloth/Tuf-Glide, Militec-1, Breakfree CLP, and White Lightning. I've also heard really good things about Eezox, but haven't personally tried it yet. In a pinch, a dry teflon/silcone based lubricant from any hardware store can offer some protection.

Most of these were originally designed as lubricants and protectants for use with guns, but their application with knives is also excellent. White Lightning is the obvious exception there, having been designed as a wax-based lubricant for bicycle chains. Additionally, most of these will leave a dry lubricating coating on the metal, offering continued protection that won't wipe off as easily as oil or grease, and won't attract particulate matter like dust and dirt.

My personal preference is the modern options. Either alone, or in combination with some mineral oil.

If I'm going to be storing a piece for a long period of time, then I'll usually treat it with one of the modern lubricant/protectants, and then follow that with a thin layer of mineral oil (I usually go for the non-toxic mineral oil available in almost any pharmacy, and I avoid vegetable oils because they can o rancid).

For daily users, I usually just go with a thorough wipe down with a cloth soaked in whichever modern lubricant/protectant I have on hand. If I'm going to be in a particularly harsh environment (like around salt water with anything other than my Spyderco Salt 1), I'll soak a cloth in the lubricant and put it in a zip top bag to take with me. Otherwise I just wipe down my knives with the same thing every week or so, or after heavy use that may be corrosive (salt water, acidic food, etc).

White Lightning has been my recent favorite among the many choices, although I've been meaning to sit down and do some real comparative corrosion tests to see which one really protects best. I'm of the opinion that any one of the options listed above will work just fine for most people and most uses, though.
 
If you use it, the mirror finish WILL dull and get scratched. This is different from rust though.
Patina is a form of blueing, as in gun blue, and is also a form of rust. A good patina or blue will leave the mirror finish mostly intact, it's the use that will mar the polish.
As stated above--for a user or short term storage, almost any oil, grease or CLP will work fine. Whatever you put on a user will get wiped off and need re-application.
For display I would recommend the Renaissance Wax.
For storage or exposure the Eezox beats all in the rust prevention trials, and is very durable as well.
Greg
 
Brasso cleans off a patina from a carbon steel blade.
It will not go shiny like when you first get it, but it will clean it well.
 
A mirror finish is probably going to be very difficult if not impossible to maintain on a user. But, as has been said already, rust is not as big of an issue with carbon steel as many people think it is. Since you said you're going to be using it for food preparation I'd recommend using mineral oil to wipe it down periodically. There are other food safe options, but mineral oil is cheap and it's readily available at any drug store sold as a laxative.

Come check out the Wilderness and Survival forum if you haven't already. There have been a few discussions on carbon steel knives there. Here's one:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=509297
 
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