How to use musk ox horn

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Here's something I wrote for a musk ox customer, thought others could use it too. Please, if you copy this or parts of it in written form, please credit it's original author, thats me. :D

Working with musk ox horn.


Before beginning to work, make sure the horn has gotten a chance to cure for a year after the death of the animal, and two months to acclimate in the area where the knife will be made is recommended. It is also helps if the knife can be made in a climate similar to its final destination.
Pin-less and takedown designs are recommended but not required.
Musk ox horn can be worked with all normal wood working tools. It is more sensitive to moisture and heat than most other natural handle materials, so care must be taken to keep it dry once it is dry and work it cool, with only sharp tools and abrasives. While working, luke warm is plenty warm. Band saws, belt sanders and buffers can easily warm the material too much and cause it to warp and/or burn while working, take breaks often if you feel the material getting warm.
Stabilization can help, but must be done after the material is cured and is best if done when the handle is close to the finished shape, it can warp during stabilization so be sure to leave extra material for clean up, 1/8 inch on the length and width, and ¼ on the thickness should be fine. Hot-cure methods of stabilization can "potato-chip" thin scales, I do not recommend it for scales less than 1/4 inch thick. I have found that I get better results on the final buff if I coat the handle in paste wax before buffing, buff slowly, with plenty of compound, I use white diamond rouge. The horn will turn foggy and orange if it is heated excessively while buffing.

I am happy to answer any questions, Mark
 
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Any tips on how cut full horns for best results?

Thanks for posting this. I've got two well cured full horns that I'd like to cut up and get stabilized, so oversize would be important. Saw a muskox boss handled knife last year. Wow! :eek: How can anything so gorgeous be hiding inside that dull sheath?

Rob!
 
Thanks for the tips Mark. They'll come in handy. I was quite surprised to see a piece of muskox boss in the box of stuff you sent for our trade. THANKS!

I have noticed one thing with a couple of the pieces of boss I bought from you a while back. One of them has cupped a bit to one side. Can that be brought back to straight in some manner, or do I just surface grind it back flat and lose a bit of the thickness?

All the best, Phil
 
Horn can be straightened with heat. Clamp and heat to 225 degrees for 30 minutes, let cool to room temperature. Do not heat over 225!
 
I noticed working with the boss it really reminds me of fingernails. It's like a bunch of compressed fingernail trimmings. I guess horn is like that too. Not so much antler material though.
 
Horn is keratin, as are fingernails. A more apt analogy is that horn is compressed hair.
 
Any tips on how cut full horns for best results?

Thanks for posting this. I've got two well cured full horns that I'd like to cut up and get stabilized, so oversize would be important. Saw a muskox boss handled knife last year. Wow! :eek: How can anything so gorgeous be hiding inside that dull sheath?

Rob!

Cutting is something that comes with practice. Generally, I start by cutting through the shank of the horn at about where the eye would be, the idea is to give yourself a flat bottom surface, where the skull plate was, to put flat on your saw table, the inside surface of the horn, where the two horns would meet goes against the rip fence on your saw. Start making slices the thikness you will need for scales or blocks. You can cut musk ox horn many orientations but this one is the easiest and the most material-conservative. Have fun and keep your fingers out of the way.:D
 
Thanks for the tips Mark. They'll come in handy. I was quite surprised to see a piece of muskox boss in the box of stuff you sent for our trade. THANKS!

I have noticed one thing with a couple of the pieces of boss I bought from you a while back. One of them has cupped a bit to one side. Can that be brought back to straight in some manner, or do I just surface grind it back flat and lose a bit of the thickness?

All the best, Phil

The cupping is from material laying on it's side on a flat surface, the surface that is on the table does not absorb moisture from the air at the same rate that the surface that was out in the air does. This is why you see some scales curl away from full tang knives, one side is protected from the air and one is not. On hidden tang knives, it's not as big a problem because on a round handle no one side is more protected (from the air) than the other. The cure is (for your material) stand the piece up on its edge and the other side will try to catch up. This sometimes equals everything out, sometimes not because the material has conformed to its new shape. You can put it in the oven at 350 degrees till it heats up enough to bend, (10 or 15 minutes) and clamp it flat.
 
Horn can be straightened with heat. Clamp and heat to 225 degrees for 30 minutes, let cool to room temperature. Do not heat over 225!

This is a safe way to go, heat it too long and too hot, you will get to throw the piece away. Do it just right you will get orange horn, I kind of think it's pretty cool.
 
An interesting way to cut hollow horns, is to cut them into a spiral-then heat and flatten the spiral. You get long, continuous pieces.
 
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