- Joined
- Dec 20, 2009
- Messages
- 4,421
Here's something I wrote for a musk ox customer, thought others could use it too. Please, if you copy this or parts of it in written form, please credit it's original author, thats me. 
Working with musk ox horn.
Before beginning to work, make sure the horn has gotten a chance to cure for a year after the death of the animal, and two months to acclimate in the area where the knife will be made is recommended. It is also helps if the knife can be made in a climate similar to its final destination.
Pin-less and takedown designs are recommended but not required.
Musk ox horn can be worked with all normal wood working tools. It is more sensitive to moisture and heat than most other natural handle materials, so care must be taken to keep it dry once it is dry and work it cool, with only sharp tools and abrasives. While working, luke warm is plenty warm. Band saws, belt sanders and buffers can easily warm the material too much and cause it to warp and/or burn while working, take breaks often if you feel the material getting warm.
Stabilization can help, but must be done after the material is cured and is best if done when the handle is close to the finished shape, it can warp during stabilization so be sure to leave extra material for clean up, 1/8 inch on the length and width, and ¼ on the thickness should be fine. Hot-cure methods of stabilization can "potato-chip" thin scales, I do not recommend it for scales less than 1/4 inch thick. I have found that I get better results on the final buff if I coat the handle in paste wax before buffing, buff slowly, with plenty of compound, I use white diamond rouge. The horn will turn foggy and orange if it is heated excessively while buffing.
I am happy to answer any questions, Mark

Working with musk ox horn.
Before beginning to work, make sure the horn has gotten a chance to cure for a year after the death of the animal, and two months to acclimate in the area where the knife will be made is recommended. It is also helps if the knife can be made in a climate similar to its final destination.
Pin-less and takedown designs are recommended but not required.
Musk ox horn can be worked with all normal wood working tools. It is more sensitive to moisture and heat than most other natural handle materials, so care must be taken to keep it dry once it is dry and work it cool, with only sharp tools and abrasives. While working, luke warm is plenty warm. Band saws, belt sanders and buffers can easily warm the material too much and cause it to warp and/or burn while working, take breaks often if you feel the material getting warm.
Stabilization can help, but must be done after the material is cured and is best if done when the handle is close to the finished shape, it can warp during stabilization so be sure to leave extra material for clean up, 1/8 inch on the length and width, and ¼ on the thickness should be fine. Hot-cure methods of stabilization can "potato-chip" thin scales, I do not recommend it for scales less than 1/4 inch thick. I have found that I get better results on the final buff if I coat the handle in paste wax before buffing, buff slowly, with plenty of compound, I use white diamond rouge. The horn will turn foggy and orange if it is heated excessively while buffing.
I am happy to answer any questions, Mark
Last edited: