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Recommendation? I have a couple questions I'd like to ask knifemakers...

Discussion in 'Shop Talk - BladeSmith Questions and Answers' started by Mononym, Aug 9, 2019.

  1. Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

    Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith ilmarinen - MODERATOR Moderator Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Aug 20, 2004
    I start every person I teach on a 7.5" drop point hunter. 3" blade, 4.5" handle. It is, IMHO, the best knife to learn on.
     
    Branson1369 likes this.
  2. weo

    weo KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Sep 21, 2014
    I see you're in DC, but if you have any family members or other contacts in parts of the country with logging operations, ask them to visit their local sawmill and see if they can get some broken saw blades. Out here in the PNW, I know of a couple mills where they regularly have a large stack of broken saw blades intheir recycling/trash bins that are .070 and .094 15N20.
     
  3. Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

    Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith ilmarinen - MODERATOR Moderator Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Aug 20, 2004
    Or buy the same saw blade steel from JT annealed and ready to go.
     
  4. kmf600

    kmf600

    106
    Jul 2, 2018
    I don't think I can post a website, but if you google DC knife patterns, there's a bunch of free downloadable patterns that you can print out.
     
  5. Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

    Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith ilmarinen - MODERATOR Moderator Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Aug 20, 2004
    It is fine to post a website for information. Just not for selling.
     
  6. Rhinoknives1

    Rhinoknives1 KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Jul 1, 2013
    One of the best pieces of advise when I was a noob was from the Late Mr. Bob Loveless . At his shop in Riverside Ca, he had an open door Sat, for anyone that wanted to stop by. Use belts as if they were Free! Many times we try to get one more knife or finish etc out of a belt and they produce a lot of heat and won’t cut evenly etc.
     
  7. Storm W

    Storm W

    273
    Feb 19, 2019
    I have to ask why you recommend 15n20 to be sent out? It was the most reliable for me to heat treat with just my forge. I was getting 63Rc with a 300 deg temper and 62 with 350. It would be my first choice to recommend to a new maker. Is there something I am missing?
     
  8. kmf600

    kmf600

    106
    Jul 2, 2018
    When you buy it, was it already pretty hard? I tried to use it a couple of times, and it was almost impossible to drill holes before heat treating. Plus, two guys I made knives for said they turned black and corroded, probably something I did wrong, and a little embarrassing .
     
  9. Storm W

    Storm W

    273
    Feb 19, 2019
    That's probably the reason for it not being a beginner's steel. I got mine from the NJSB and it drilled like butter but I have heard other places it comes harder.
     
  10. Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

    Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith ilmarinen - MODERATOR Moderator Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Aug 20, 2004
    The reason I don't call it a beginner's steel is the HT requires a pretty tight austenitization temp (1480-1500F) and a soak for 5 to 10 minutes. You can't do that with a simple backyard forge. Sure, lots of guys heat it to a red color beyond magnetic and dunk it in the il and it gets hard. But, the best part of the steel's abilities may be left out of the final knife edge.

    As said by others, it often comes in a work-hardened condition from its previous like as a huge bandsaw blade from a lumber mill. Filing/grinding/drilling will be more difficult in that state. Annealing isn't as simple as 1084.

    A 350F temper gets around Rc60-61.
     
  11. Greenberg Woods

    Greenberg Woods Wood Fanatic and Rosewood Addict

    Dec 27, 2013
    Reminds me of something i heard about sex. Your first time wont be great, but practice makes perfect, and practice is fun
     

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