I used my Wusthof Sushi Knife Tonight

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Nov 8, 2006
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I used my new Wusthof sushi knife. It worked great for me as I am no expert. We had salmon sushi tonight and couple of spring rolls with a bottle of white wine. It is my birthday tomorrow so we fixed desert. I used my de Buyer carbon steel pan and fixed banana foster with crepes. I used my small crepe carbon steel pan to make the crepes. We then added vanilla bean ice cream on top of the crepes. It turned out great.

We used cognac and set the bananas on fire for really good favor.
 
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It is kind of a thick knife but cuts clean as there is no raggedness on the cut. I wet the blade and it goes right through. The salmon does not stick to the blade as the pitch of the one-sided sharpened blade pushes it away. This is my first real sushi knife.
 
I just had leftover salmon sushi this morning for brunch with a beer for my birthday.

I never did talk about my salmon sushi. I use my Wusthof salmon knife to separate the skin from the meat. It is real flexiable knife that works great for this task. This allows me to get at the little bit of dark meat between the skin and meat and cut it off to feed the cats. If you lay the salmon skin down on a cutting board and you wedge your salmon knife between the skin and salmon meat and just pull toward the tail of the fish. The skin comes off clean.
 
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Knife people should know that there is no "sushi" knife. Makers use that term aimed at the non-knife public.
That is a Yanagiba (Willow Leaf) knife.
 
There's no reason why softer-steel German cutlery can't cut fish as well as Japanese knives. But because German cutlery are typically rated at around 54-58 HRC, they'll need to be sharpened more frequently than the Japanese counterparts (60-65 HRC).
 
There's no reason why softer-steel German cutlery can't cut fish as well as Japanese knives. But because German cutlery are typically rated at around 54-58 HRC, they'll need to be sharpened more frequently than the Japanese counterparts (60-65 HRC).

Sharpening is not a problem for me. I can sharpen my German knife with my Work Sharp in a matter of a few minutes. I have a large kitchen at home so no commercial use. Pre-Pandemic we would have large parties with 4 people or so working in the kitchen with knives at the same time. My biggest problem is we are all drinking and talking which makes for a hard time getting other people to respect the knives as they would end up cutting on china plates and metal oven pans not always on wood cutting boards even though I have plenty. I try to keep them on the cutting boards but they stray off. So, I end up sharpening knives. I have lots of knives for everybody but I don't let them use my sushi knives like my salmon or my new sushi Yanagiba (Willow Leaf) knife. My salmon knife lasted about a year before it needed sharpening. After the last time I sharpened my salmon knife it did not cut sushi well as it was a little ragged on the cuts but it still skins the salmon nicely. I hope my new Ken Onion will fix that. I hope we get to have more parties in the future.
 
There's no reason why softer-steel German cutlery can't cut fish as well as Japanese knives. But because German cutlery are typically rated at around 54-58 HRC, they'll need to be sharpened more frequently than the Japanese counterparts (60-65 HRC).

Actually, there is a reason. Japanese knives typically run harder so they can be ran thinner than the softer steels. And thin will always win.

That isn't to say that softer steels can't do a good job of course, but there is a reason for the differences.
 
It is funny you say thin will always win. The salmon knife is very thin and my new Wusthof sushi Yanagiba (Willow Leaf) knife is a lot thicker. They both cut sushi but I am not sure the salmon knife is better.
 
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It is funny you say thin will always win. The salmon knife is very thin and my new Wusthof sushi Yanagiba (Willow Leaf) knife is a lot thicker. They both cut sushi but I am not sure the salmon knife is better.

I meant thin at the very edge. Also, the yanagiba is designed to be a good slicer, especially for fish.
 
Any Yanigiba will be far thicker than a true salmon slicer. Salmons ar long, thin and far more flexible than a fillet knife, Yanigis have no flex
 
Sharpening is not a problem for me. I can sharpen my German knife with my Work Sharp in a matter of a few minutes. I have a large kitchen at home so no commercial use. Pre-Pandemic we would have large parties with 4 people or so working in the kitchen with knives at the same time. My biggest problem is we are all drinking and talking which makes for a hard time getting other people to respect the knives as they would end up cutting on china plates and metal oven pans not always on wood cutting boards even though I have plenty. I try to keep them on the cutting boards but they stray off. So, I end up sharpening knives. I have lots of knives for everybody but I don't let them use my sushi knives like my salmon or my new sushi Yanagiba (Willow Leaf) knife. My salmon knife lasted about a year before it needed sharpening. After the last time I sharpened my salmon knife it did not cut sushi well as it was a little ragged on the cuts but it still skins the salmon nicely. I hope my new Ken Onion will fix that. I hope we get to have more parties in the future.

Being able to sharpen your knives yourself is a big advantage when it comes to owning German knives because they require frequent sharpening for best experience. But for someone like me, who has yet to learn to sharpen, edge retention is something worth taking into consideration. That's why most of my kitchen knives are now in the 63-65 HRC range. But I am slowly learning to sharpen them myself at a steady rate ... at a slow and steady rate of a comatose snail overdosed on Valium.

The first step of my methodology to learning to master the art of sharpening knives is to watch a lot of YouTube videos in order to mentally prepare myself for the traumatizing endeavor where a slightest mistake could possibly render my expensive knives a heap of worthless metallic junk. And I must do this all the while ascertaining the expertise and knowledge level of the YouTuber by performing extensive background checks, reading through long list of viewer comments, etc.

After I've logged about 1000 hours-worth of viewing various videos on How-To and reading through countless forums on relevant topics, I will be then ready for the 2nd step of my methodology: my first foray into The Art of Sharpening Knives. This is the part where I actually attempt to sharpen something, anything, with my own hands. Preferably Japanese knives. REAL learning happens by doing, not watching. But of course, I will be first practicing with a dirt-cheap knife such as this one with an equally cheap waterstones until I've gained enough confidence and rudimentary skills before moving onto something more serious. And I would do this as I continually and exhaustively exchange multitudes of emails with various vendors and established experts in the field with barrages of questions on sharpening techniques and such. I'll know I've done my job properly once they start placing my email address on their IGNORE list.

The 3rd and the final step of my mythology to becoming a master knife sharpener is to log in close to a thousand hours of actual hands-on sharpening using real waterstones to sharpen real knives. Here I am referring to traditional sharpening by hand, of course. Pull-through V-grooved sharpeners are NOT CONSIDERED real sharpening tools. Rather, they are tools for removing excess amount of metal to render the knives dull to facilitate accelerated wear and tear. Nor am I talking about guided sharpening systems as those are considered 'training wheels for kiddies' by professionals. After I've worn out and replaced about $1000-worth of waterstones, and another $1000-worth of knives (because mistakes WILL happen, and knives WILL be ruined along the process), then and only then will I be able to sharpen the most difficult and toughest of knives with the fine precision of the smoothest Swiss watch that's been run over repeatedly by a coal train.

Yes, the road to becoming a master sharpener will be long and arduous.
But I will persevere. I will not falter.
And I will not be dissuaded by nay sayers nor skeptics.
Quitters never win, and winners never quit.
Upon becoming a master sharpener, I will look back and see all those years of sacrifice was well worth it.

... or I could just save myself the time and effort by mailing in my knives to the professionals.
 
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about as slow and steady as a comatose snail overdosed on Valium
Funny but in a way true. My father and Grandfather taught me to sharpen my pocketknife when I was a little kid. Been sharpening for 40+ years. Basics are easy, mastery takes a lifetime.

Said it before it is like playing an instrument. Guidance then lots of practice.
 
Being able to sharpen your knives yourself is a big advantage when it comes to owning German knives because they require frequent sharpening for best experience. But for someone like me, who has yet to learn to sharpen, edge retention is something worth taking into consideration. That's why most of my kitchen knives are now in the 63-65 HRC range. But I am slowly learning to sharpen them myself at a steady rate ... at a slow and steady rate of a comatose snail overdosed on Valium.

The first step of my methodology to learning to master the art of sharpening knives is to watch a lot of YouTube videos in order to mentally prepare myself for the traumatizing endeavor where a slightest mistake could possibly render my expensive knives a heap of worthless metallic junk. And I must do this all the while ascertaining the expertise and knowledge level of the YouTuber by performing extensive background checks, reading through long list of viewer comments, etc.

After I've logged about 1000 hours-worth of viewing various videos on How-To and reading through countless forums on relevant topics, I will be then ready for the 2nd step of my methodology: my first foray into The Art of Sharpening Knives. This is the part where I actually attempt to sharpen something, anything, with my own hands. Preferably Japanese knives. REAL learning happens by doing, not watching. But of course, I will be first practicing with a dirt-cheap knife such as this one with an equally cheap waterstones until I've gained enough confidence and rudimentary skills before moving onto something more serious. And I would do this as I continually and exhaustively exchange multitudes of emails with various vendors and established experts in the field with barrages of questions on sharpening techniques and such. I'll know I've done my job properly once they start placing my email address on their IGNORE list.

The 3rd and the final step of my mythology to becoming a master knife sharpener is to log in close to a thousand hours of actual hands-on sharpening using real waterstones to sharpen real knives. Here I am referring to traditional sharpening by hand, of course. Pull-through V-grooved sharpeners are NOT CONSIDERED real sharpening tools. Rather, they are tools for removing excess amount of metal to render the knives dull to facilitate accelerated wear and tear. Nor am I talking about guided sharpening systems as those are considered 'training wheels for kiddies' by professionals. After I've worn out and replaced about $1000-worth of waterstones, and another $1000-worth of knives (because mistakes WILL happen, and knives WILL be ruined along the process), then and only then will I be able to sharpen the most difficult and toughest of knives with the fine precision of the smoothest Swiss watch that's been run over repeatedly by a coal train.

Yes, the road to becoming a master sharpener will be long and arduous.
But I will persevere. I will not falter.
And I will not be dissuaded by nay sayers nor skeptics.
Quitters never win, and winners never quit.
Upon becoming a master sharpener, I will look back and see all those years of sacrifice was well worth it.

... or I could just save myself the time and effort by mailing in my knives to the professional sharpeners.

Relax friend. :)

Learning to sharpen is not magic. No matter what some people say, or how intimidated we might get, it isn't.

If you look in the subforum list you'll see the Maintenance, Tinkering & Embellishment subforum. It is full of great information in the stickies and even better folks who post there.

The absolute basics of sharpening are:

Form a burr
Flip and form a burr
Deburr
Hone/Strop

That's it. A Sharpie is a great way to see how you're doing on the edge. Don't fret thinning or re-profiling or any of that when you start out. Yeah there will be some re-profiling as you adjust your knife to your hand vs. the factory but by and large you're just going to fallow the factory grind and angle.

Be aware that dirt cheap knives sometimes won't sharpen worth a damn and can lead to frustration.

Yes, you will make mistakes but you just learn from them and keep going. And yes, mastery is a different thing, but just getting good edges should not be so concerning.

Just get in there and get going. :)
 
With 30 plus knives hand sharpening was a daunting task. I never wanted to do it until I absolutely had to do it. And then I only picked a few of my favorite knives. The Work Sharp was my saving grace. It let me sharpen all my knives quickly. I now have a much better experience using all my sharp kitchen knives.

I think anybody can use a Work Sharp with the guides. Freehand I don't know as I have not done it.
 
With 30 plus knives hand sharpening was a daunting task. I never wanted to do it until I absolutely had to do it. And then I only picked a few of my favorite knives. The Work Sharp was my saving grace. It let me sharpen all my knives quickly. I now have a much better experience using all my sharp kitchen knives.

I think anybody can use a Work Sharp with the guides. Freehand I don't know as I have not done it.

30+ knives?!? Not sure whether they're all kitchen knives or not. Either way, that's a lot of knives!

It sounds like you don't really enjoy sharpening your knives. If I could sharpen knives like a pro (an impossibly BIG if), I'd be sharpening as often as I can to destress from life. With that many knives to sharpen, I'd set up a strict daily regimen of sharpening routines; one for an early morning to prepare my mind and body for the challenges ahead, an another for late evening just before I go to bed to wind down. Think of it as a zen-exercise, with each stroke executed to purrrfection, bringing the knife ever closer to purrrfect sharpness.
 
30+ knives?!? Not sure whether they're all kitchen knives or not. Either way, that's a lot of knives!

It sounds like you don't really enjoy sharpening your knives. If I could sharpen knives like a pro (an impossibly BIG if), I'd be sharpening as often as I can to destress from life. With that many knives to sharpen, I'd set up a strict daily regimen of sharpening routines; one for an early morning to prepare my mind and body for the challenges ahead, an another for late evening just before I go to bed to wind down. Think of it as a zen-exercise, with each stroke executed to purrrfection, bringing the knife ever closer to purrrfect sharpness.

All kitchen knives. They are mostly Henckels 4-star and 5-star with some Wusthof Classic kitchen knives. I have 2 big knife blocks 1 Henckels and the other Wusthof block with a few extra kitchen knives around. I like having the best kitchen knife for the job. Plus, I have a dozen steak knives to keep sharp in addition to the kitchen knives. Using steak knives on plates requires lots of sharpening.

I don't care for hand sharpening. I just like using sharp kitchen knives.
 
in order to mentally prepare myself for the traumatizing endeavor where a slightest mistake could possibly render my expensive knives a heap of worthless metallic junk.
Relax, take one of those Vallium.
You aren't going to mess up your knives easily. Certainly not with a slightest mistake. You'll do something that requires a little more sharpening to undo.
Look up videos by Pete Nowlan - he's a pro in Nova Scotia. He has YT videos and a blog. There are other good videos, but even good sharpeners point to him.
Third - if you are serious, get something cheaper and easier to sharpen. Really a 65 HRC knife takes time and that takes discipline. There are VG-10, white, and AEB-L knives for less than $80 that are easy to sharpen and get razor sharp.
 
I have so many kitchen knives that I even don't sharpen them all at one time using the fast Work Sharp sharpening system as I get tired. I sharpen maybe 8 or 10 knives then stop or I can mess up a blade. Pulling a 10 or 12 inch long-bladed knife straight at the right speed is hard for me. Whereas the short steak knives are easy and I can sharpen them all fairly fast.
 
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