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ideas on combat / survival knife design
- Thread starter ti lock
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I prefer a total length between 9-13"... Thickness of 3/16"-1/4"... Tool steels like A2, CPM3V, S7, CPMD2, and CPM4V are my favorites when I build them. Canvas micarta is my first choice for handle scales.
I might recommend something sized similarly to the Kabar USMC. It's been around just about forever by now and I figure there must be at least some reason for that. With a 7 inch blade you would get plenty of length for both combat and survival applications without it being overly large or impractical. With a blade that size I would really recommend a finger choil as it can be tough doing smaller work without one. If not, then at least a good sharpening notch.
For blade shape I would say a drop point, with a shallow drop that starts close to the handle. This would give you more survival practicality than most clip points but still leaves you with a tip that is in about the same place as would be a more combat oriented clip point. Thereby leaving you good piercing ability. A 3/4" or 4/5" hight sabre grind would leave the spine strong without compromising slicing overly much, and would work on a consistent angle sharpener if you have, or ever get, one.
I also echo Charlie Mike's suggestion for micarta handle scales. Those are probably the best thing for this sort of knife. Leave the handle more flat than round so that you can easily index it and maybe a flat pommel that just pokes out past the scales. And a lanyard hole is always nice to have, even if you don't always use one.
For steel you will have to weigh for yourself what sort of trade off you want between sharpening and edge holding. After all, you may have to sharpen it in the field at some point. Again like Charlie Mike, my top recommendation would be 3/16" 3V as it will hold a great edge while still being very strong and shock resistant if you need to beat up on the knife, but it can be a pain to sharpen. A2 would be my next suggestion. Many top tier makers use it with great success.
Now these are just my thoughts, so who knows what they are worth. If any of it sounds good to you, take it and discard the rest. It's your knife after all. I'm just here to lend a hand.
For blade shape I would say a drop point, with a shallow drop that starts close to the handle. This would give you more survival practicality than most clip points but still leaves you with a tip that is in about the same place as would be a more combat oriented clip point. Thereby leaving you good piercing ability. A 3/4" or 4/5" hight sabre grind would leave the spine strong without compromising slicing overly much, and would work on a consistent angle sharpener if you have, or ever get, one.
I also echo Charlie Mike's suggestion for micarta handle scales. Those are probably the best thing for this sort of knife. Leave the handle more flat than round so that you can easily index it and maybe a flat pommel that just pokes out past the scales. And a lanyard hole is always nice to have, even if you don't always use one.
For steel you will have to weigh for yourself what sort of trade off you want between sharpening and edge holding. After all, you may have to sharpen it in the field at some point. Again like Charlie Mike, my top recommendation would be 3/16" 3V as it will hold a great edge while still being very strong and shock resistant if you need to beat up on the knife, but it can be a pain to sharpen. A2 would be my next suggestion. Many top tier makers use it with great success.
Now these are just my thoughts, so who knows what they are worth. If any of it sounds good to you, take it and discard the rest. It's your knife after all. I'm just here to lend a hand.
Combat knife I'd want a dagger or a bayonet. Steel doesn't matter, just a shank for all intent and purpose.
A survival knife on the other hand, I would like carbon steel (1095), 90° spine. Between 9 and thirteen inches blade length sounds good. With a grippy handle scale and a lanyard hole. Flat or scandi ground.
A survival knife on the other hand, I would like carbon steel (1095), 90° spine. Between 9 and thirteen inches blade length sounds good. With a grippy handle scale and a lanyard hole. Flat or scandi ground.
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I enjoy the classics like the rambo knife. I would want one made like the rambo knife instead of the saw some really good serrations on top and the blade shape like the gso 7/7 micarta scales or terotuff and delta 3v steel all the way if you could get it made let me know id be in for one haha
cbach8tw
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My personal opinion only, stay with a 4-6 inch blade that is 3/16 thick, canvas micarta handle, and a good steel like 1095 or 1095 cro van, A2, or cpm 154 or cm 154. I think the knife will be used more for everyday chores rather than a knife for fighting. The knife will be with you a lot, so I would also consider a carry system or how you would attach to equipment for easy access ( just for the occasion when it may need to be used in combat). I really like the GBH (get back home) from JK knives. Lots of good ideas out there. I also liked the Sand Box Bowie by Martin Knives when it was made.
For real chopping power don't consider anything under 10" of blade, and close to 2" in blade width and 1/4" stock.
I prefer a serrated back for notches, but for combat you might want to make sure the serration cut on the push, so they don't get stuck.
Spine serrations are best with a full flat grind, but a FFG tends to make the knife a bit blade light, so to compensate the edge's "shoulders" should be a bit thinner than expected, like 0.020".
Ideally balance should be at least 3/4" into the blade, with an overall weight between 17 and 22 ounces, with 22 ounces performing noticeably better.
Clip points are better for combat, but for digging, prying and point work generally spear points are much better, if much inferior in combat unless the edge angle is kept really thin, and even then... If you compromise with a clip point to combine Combat and Survival, then a slightly shorter and handier blade length of 9" makes sense, but don't go under that...
Because the requirements between combat and survival are so contradictory, I like to "pair" the Survival knife with a dagger, the dagger being also light enough to make a much better tie-up spear point than the "main" knife... Most daggers have poor edge geometry, but some variants of the Gerber Mark II, and all Guardian IIs, are zero-edged and sharper than most, if smaller than the 7.5" I think is ideal. Another solution is to re-profile other daggers sharper... A dagger should be around 1" in blade width, 3/16" stock or more, and not much over 8 ounces: This is easily 30% less than many similar single edge knives, and that is a major reason a dagger is a better choice as a "combat" blade...
Gaston
I prefer a serrated back for notches, but for combat you might want to make sure the serration cut on the push, so they don't get stuck.
Spine serrations are best with a full flat grind, but a FFG tends to make the knife a bit blade light, so to compensate the edge's "shoulders" should be a bit thinner than expected, like 0.020".
Ideally balance should be at least 3/4" into the blade, with an overall weight between 17 and 22 ounces, with 22 ounces performing noticeably better.
Clip points are better for combat, but for digging, prying and point work generally spear points are much better, if much inferior in combat unless the edge angle is kept really thin, and even then... If you compromise with a clip point to combine Combat and Survival, then a slightly shorter and handier blade length of 9" makes sense, but don't go under that...
Because the requirements between combat and survival are so contradictory, I like to "pair" the Survival knife with a dagger, the dagger being also light enough to make a much better tie-up spear point than the "main" knife... Most daggers have poor edge geometry, but some variants of the Gerber Mark II, and all Guardian IIs, are zero-edged and sharper than most, if smaller than the 7.5" I think is ideal. Another solution is to re-profile other daggers sharper... A dagger should be around 1" in blade width, 3/16" stock or more, and not much over 8 ounces: This is easily 30% less than many similar single edge knives, and that is a major reason a dagger is a better choice as a "combat" blade...
Gaston
And for a "survival" knife it depends on what you think "survival" is, and where and when you plan on doing it.
It would help us help you if you explain what you mean.
(It typically means "outdoor recreation/camping," but I don't know if that is your case.)
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For "urban" survival, this would be ideal.
outdoor survival.... probably I want a good serrated edge along the top of the blade for sawing small branches for shelter building etc.... so the handle design need to work for holding the blade in both positions.... the blade should tough enough for chopping small tree branches too
So a "sawback/Rambo/survival" style knife. Cool. Are you going to be carrying this knife at all times, in case you find yourself in a "combat/survival" situation, or are you only going to carry it on preplanned excursions like going camping? Or is it a BOB knife to be put somewhere with a set of other tools?
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Very important to consider. I carry a combat/survival knife all/every day. There does come a point where a knife becomes an inconvenience. For me, 13.5" total (Busse TGLB) is as big as I can comfortably EDC.
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Honestly I'd steer clear of searching for a "fighting" knife, and just look for a well thought out design with a stout tip and something like a canvas micarta handle of any decent steel. The chances of ever needing an actual fighting knife are soooo slim, that it's mostly fantasy. I've spent 17 years now crossing the globe from one mess to another and have been involved in my fair share of aggressive encounters and although I've always carried a sturdy fixed blade, and had every intention of keeping it as a backup weapon, not only have I never even came close to using one in self defense, I have never met anyone who has, and I've met a lot of soldiers from a lot of different militaries. This has led me to more sensible user EDC type blades and I've never looked back. Sure, a 10" blade and a purpose built fighting knife will be more handy than a 4'' bladed fallkniven f1, IF you ever get into a knife fight... but that's a massive IF. the reality is that you will be using that knife for everything under the sun, from the most boring tasks in the world to keeping yourself occupied when you yourself bored, to making shelters and food prep, so the best knife for that is the one you're most likely to carry, and most people will be more likely to carry a sensible knife that doesn't get in the way and is better for the 99.999% of the chores the knife will be exposed to
Esav Benyamin
MidniteSuperMod
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I agree with rustyrazor. If you really truly need a fighting knife, first decide on the circumstaces, then find the appropropriate training. Your training will determine your fighting knife, not the other way around.
The venerable Marine Combat / Utility is a cheap and dirty version of a civilian outdoorsman knife. It was especially valuable in the field, living off the land.
The venerable Marine Combat / Utility is a cheap and dirty version of a civilian outdoorsman knife. It was especially valuable in the field, living off the land.
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Another thought, having a saw back, double edge, or even deeper swedge will chew through a baton if you plan on being able to use it for that.
There are lots of give and takes,
A thicker blade will be tougher, but not actually do its main task as well: cutting
Stainless steels you won't have to worry about rust, but carbon/tool steels are tougher and less likely to break
Heavy blades chop better, but are slow if fighting and vice versa
Black blades/camo knives are easier to hide and if you drop it harder to find
Harder/higher carbide steels hold their edge longer, but are much harder/more time consuming to sharpen in the field (super steels)
Simple carbon steels are much easier too touch up, but you will be doing it a lot more often, sometimes in the middle of large cutting jobs
There are lots of give and takes,
A thicker blade will be tougher, but not actually do its main task as well: cutting
Stainless steels you won't have to worry about rust, but carbon/tool steels are tougher and less likely to break
Heavy blades chop better, but are slow if fighting and vice versa
Black blades/camo knives are easier to hide and if you drop it harder to find
Harder/higher carbide steels hold their edge longer, but are much harder/more time consuming to sharpen in the field (super steels)
Simple carbon steels are much easier too touch up, but you will be doing it a lot more often, sometimes in the middle of large cutting jobs
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Hey check out the designs of relentless m4 recon and the busse battlesaw both have the top portion done that way its a shame there isnt more knives like that that arent complete garbage. After looking at a few designs you might have to set down and draw it with all the features your wanting. Plus, it would be cool to design your very own i encourage a long fuller to help shed some weight.
So emphasis off combat, and on "survival," by which you mean "camping."
So what you are looking for is a camp knife. Kabar Becker makes a line of very popular ones.
Just out curiousity, why do you need a sawback for sawing small branches when you can just chop them? Or bring a folding saw? If you are looking for an outdoor recreation set up,theres no reason not to bring a folding saw.