Ideas on what a bushcraft knife should be

[James_Terrio]

First of all, let's all promise to be civil here. I'm not looking for an argument!
As a budding maker, I'm simply asking for your input on what constitutes a good bushcraft knife. NOT a survival knife, necessarily, but one suited to less-intensive tasks; one to be used in conjunction with a hatchet, hawk or big knife for the rough work. A knife that will be used for carving, whittling, food prep, cleaning game, etc.

I can't help but notice the similiarities between many bushcraft knives and the good ol' Green River knife like the one in the first pic below... my only real complaints with the GR are, the handle is too dang small, and I prefer a little something to keep my hand off the edge. I also tend to like a slightly thicker blade, as long as it's ground nice and sharp; I hope the second pic illustrates what I mean. Other than that, I think the criteria would be:

4-5" blade, of stock about 1/8" thick, to allow for fine slicing and carving. How big/thick is too much? Most likely a full flat grind, for the same reason, although I love convex blades, too.

A nice drop-point, with a sharp enough tip to do detail work. Not much need for a sharpened back edge.

I don't think you need much of a guard, a small unobtrusive single guard should be fine.

I love oiled finishes on natural wood, but let's face it, they're just not as durable as micarta or stabilized wood. How do you guys feel about handle materials?
Are you willing to take care of the wood, or would you rather have next-to-no maintenance?
For that matter, what about sheaths? I'm partial to good ol' leather... what are your thoughts? I know a lot of you love a fire-steel on your sheaths, and it seems to me a ceramic rod or small stone should be on there as well.

What about steel? I know high-carbon standby's like 1095 are very popular around here, and I love them too. But would you like to see such a knife also offered in, say D2 or A2 for a bit more edge-retention and corrosion-resistance? What about a high-end stainless like CPM154?

Any special features you'd like to see? Like maybe a small round notch in the blade near the handle, for using with your ferro rod or mag block? Or is a nice square spine all you need?

I'm not spamming, because I have nothing for sale at the moment I'm just asking y'all's opinions for help in designing a good bushcrafter. Thanks for your time!

Examples:

 

[Fonly]

for what its worth when I think bushcraft, I think of a drop point, scandi ground 01 blade with a generous sized handle of maple.

That would be a optimal knife for me anyways, handle materials can differ of course, just as the blade steel can, 1095, 1085, d2 and 01 to name a few are common for woods knives, just like maple, lace wood, walnut burl and the like are common for handles.

BTW, I was wondering where the hell gibson fan went!

 

[Mentor]

I'm really quite flexible with this, but the key features I look for are:

• Comparatively thin stock. Not too thin, mind you, but I associate bushcraft with cutting and slicing, and I find that a thinner blade excels at this.
• Comfortable, rounded handle that easily accepts multiple grip positions.
• Drop or spear point, flat or scandi ground, blade length 5" or less.
• squared spine.

I also lean towards carbon steel and natural handle materials, but that's mostly an aesthetic preference.

All this being said, my current bushcrafter is a hollow-ground stainless knife with a thick spine and G-10 handles, so I'm definitely flexible!

Best,

- Mike

 

[James_Terrio]

BTW, I was wondering where the hell gibson fan went!

The question is, are ya glad he's back?

Thanks for the input, guys. I think I have a handle on the concept, at least as far as my own preferences go, but I'm interested in everyone's opinion.

 

[RescueRiley]

I'm gonna say 3&1/12 to 5 inch blade, full tang, (no stick tangs) carbon or tool steel, scandi grind spear point tip, wooden or micarta scales and a leather sheath...no guard, and a lanyard hole is always nice. But that's just me...Also nice knives in the pics btw.

 

[James_Terrio]

Thanks for the compliment, Riley!

As far as full vs narrow tang goes... my only problem with full-tang carbon-steel blades is that it can be an issue to keep the tang "spine" clean without scuffing up the handle material... of course blueing helps prevent that worry. It's been my experience that a decent narrow tang on a knife this small is no handicap to strength or durability.

About the scandi grind... I like 'em on small knives like our good friends the Mora's; but it seems to me, with a bit thicker and wider blade like the second one above, I get a more acute angle with a full-flat or mild convex grind, and still have a stronger blade.

Your thoughts?

 

[1Tracker]

What Mentor said above, to add; 1/8th+ thick, squared off spine, comfortable handle like you'd find on a versatile kitchen knife, blade length of 4 -4 1/2" (I find that even though a longer 5-6" blade looks better;it's sometimes awkward in hand for fine work if the tip is too far out),definitely Drop Point style, zero ground convex edge ( in thin enough steel works better in hardwoods than a Scandi edge which is more softwood oriented IMO), if you put a choil under the ricasso then make it big enough for a finger to be comfortable, or else just make it 1/4" max for a steel (but remember to leave the edges square for the steel), I like gimping of at least an 1" long up at the spine in front of the scales for more control.....It's a lot more personal when you use a knife like this more frequently than a large knife in camp. Thanks for asking! Just look at what some of the Old Masters offer up around here on a regular basis, they have it pretty nailed down.

 

[RescueRiley]

James, definitely nice work (especially the green river)
I think it all depends on how thick you want the spine I guess, (but I don't know much about knife making so I conceit to the experience of others) for general bushcraft I don't see the need to go much thicker than 3/16 with a blade length of about 4 inches (basically a classier uber mora) My DP campmaster is 3/16 1095 full scandi, it is quite the slicer,,, and probably the best knife i have in regards to wood working.

 

[CarpScot]

Just my personal preferences:
I always have at least a small hatchet with me so I don't carry a knife to handle large tasks. I like to know that the knife can handle some hard use in case I lose my hatchet though.

3 1/2" to 4" full tang spearpoint.

1/8" thick or a little thicker is ideal.

I prefer a convex grind for a knife of this size.

Staining isn't an issue for a bushcraft knife with me.

I have been very happy with steels such as A2, D2, O1, and 3V. To me the ability to hold an edge is more important that impact resistance since I normally have others tools for larger tasks.

Small integral guard that mostly serves as a register for my hand.

No choil!

A squared spine is a definite plus for me, and I square them off if a knife doesn't come with one.

Around a 4" handle.

Micarta and wood are both OK in my book. Wood generally just "feels right" to me, and I don't mind a little extra care.

I have been happy with several handle styles, but the common theme in the handles I like most is the ability to hold the knife in different grips for carving and notching while still being secure in the primary grip. Handles with a lot of curves generally aren't my favorite for that reason.

One last thing. I like a knife with some soul to it. Something that makes it just a little bit unique. Little quirks help me take to a knife faster than a cookie cutter type blade and I am therefor much more likely to want to carry and use it.

I hope that this can be of some help. Sorry my response is so long but I really had to think about it.

Edited to add: I like both knives pictured above, but they would suit my tatstes a bit better of they had slightly shorter blades.

 

[James_Terrio]

Thanks for asking! Just look at what some of the Old Masters offer up around here on a regular basis, they have it pretty nailed down.

Don't you think for one second that I haven't been watching what the other makers around here are putting out These folks have inspired me to no end.

...I don't see the need to go much thicker than 3/16 with a blade length of about 4 inches (basically a classier uber mora)...

Yeah, 3/16" at the guard is as thick as I'd want to go. No sense sacrificing "sliceability" on a knife like we're talking about here. With a blade width around 1 to 1-1/8" and a nice even distal taper, it makes for a very good cutter that's plenty tough. Frankly I'm a bit surprised by your responses; I had thought maybe folks would like a thinner blade.

I also agree that 5" is pushing it for blade length; 4" is easier for me to get "up close and personal" for finer work. That way, I can lay my forefinger along the spine and control it easily.

"Uber Mora" is a good way to describe it... I want it to cut and slice very well, first and foremost; the slightly larger size overall just adds strength in case you do want to baton with it, for example.

CarpScot, your post is NOT too long, that's exactly the kind of input I'm looking for! I totally agree about not having a choil or even much of a ricasso; I like a sharp edge right close to the handle instead. I also agree on a not-too-contoured handle to allow for different grips. And as you said, I'm not trying to design a survival knife that can do the big jobs (that's a different model), I'm thinking of a knife used alongside a hatchet or similar.

 

[CarpScot]

CarpScot, your post is NOT too long, that's exactly the kind of input I'm looking for! I totally agree about not having a choil or even much of a ricasso; I like a sharp edge right close to the handle instead. I also agree on a not-too-contoured handle to allow for different grips. And as you said, I'm not trying to design a survival knife that can do the big jobs (that's a different model), I'm thinking of a knife used alongside a hatchet or similar.

Good, I was worried I was being too long winded again. I wanted to add that the knives you posted both have that "soul" thing that I look for. :thumbup:

 

[James_Terrio]

Thank you very kindly! I agree that a good knife should have a bit of personality to it. That just makes it more enjoyable; I intend to offer these with plenty of options, so the customer will really feel it's his or hers.

Please DO sweat the details, guys!

 

[Cpl Punishment]

I've become pretty lenient lately on what I'll go for in a bushcraft knife.
I have big hands, so prefer a blade 4-5", and a handle 4.5" or so.
Full tang. Doesn't have to be an exposed tang, but a full tang.
Carbon steel. 1095 or any of the tool/spring steels is fine, just have the right heat treat recipe.

Drop point. Don't care if it's flat, scandi or convex, so long as it comes to a fine edge.

I generally prefer wood handles, but am not against micarta.

The ideal bushcrafter for me so far has been the BRKT Aurora:

I've also gotten a lot of use lately from a very different knife, The Himalayan Imports R-10:

Note the R-10 is NOT a small knife. 5" of blade and the same for the handle. .270" or so where the scales end and tapers to the tip. Yet, it will shave hair, makes great fuzz sticks and drills and notches quite well. The continuous curve of the handle makes it very easy to change grips from a hammer grip, to tumb on spine to more of a choked grip for skinning and scraping hides. I have to tip my hat to the genius of the Kami who made it. It has perfect balance, and is such a simple, yet utterly versatile design.

I think those are two "grail" attributes to go for in a knife design: simplicity and versatility. You almost always find them in the knives of men who use knives as much as they make them. You'll see those attributes in most of the custom makers' knives here.

 

[Rockywolf]

The straight look of top pic, handle comfort of middle pic, and the razor edge and guard of bottom pic.

Choils suck. Chubby handles (only on knives) are great. Full tang. A thicker, tough-as-hell leather sheath is a bonus.

 

[SouthernCross]

The knife I use for bushcraft is my hunting knife, the Fallkniven H1 in stainless 3G steel.

Whilst it couldn't be described as a "bushcraft design", I wouldn't swap it for any other knife :thumbup:

Bear in mind as always, YMMV.




Kind regards
Mick

 

[SPXTrader]

When I think of bushcraft knives, I think of Dan Koster. I've had a bunch of them from different makers/manufacturers, and his are the best I've had the pleasure to use.

 

[DWK2]

I'd want a 4-5" blade. Because of differences in personal preference, it might be worth offering a 4" and a 5". If one doesn't sell many, there's your answer.

I'd prefer thin stock. 3/32 or 1/8". A2 or 01 would be good for steel.

I'd like a flat or thin convex grind. Either no choil at all or a big one. Nothing in between. I've found those useless.

For a handle, rough finish micarta or stabilized wood.

JIMPING: I'd like an abrasive finish of some kind just in front of the handle and another one farther out near the tip. I sometimes extend my right finger along the back of the blade when skinning or doing fine work and a friction surface helps.

Thanks for soliciting our input! Best of success to you.

DancesWithKnives

 

[James_Terrio]

Thank you all for your interest and input. More pics of your favorites are definitely welcome! There are certainly a boat-load of great knives already out there, and I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel. I tip my hat to makers like Koster, Stomper, and Fiddleback, and manufacturers like BRKT. Too many others to mention. I don't want to copy anyone's knife, but I'm damn sure willing to learn from them.

Some of you have mentioned jimping; how "aggressive" do you like your thumb-grooves? Personally, I don't like it when the grooves are too sharp against the thumb or forefinger. For instance, the jimping on the classic GR is pretty, but uncomfortable to me.

Maybe more of a checkered style would work well for the first inch or so? I'm not talking about filework all the way down the spine; I feel plenty of nice square spine is needed for striking sparks. To me, that's part of the basic function of a knife like this. DWK, I hadn't thought of jimping near the tip, that's an interesting idea.

What about thong holes? Do you prefer them near the top of the butt, or near the bottom? Would you like the option of a thong tube instead of a pin or rivet near the blade, for lashing your knife to a spear if needed?

Again, thank you kindly for your ideas, and please keep them coming. Every little detail matters to me, and I'm open to almost any idea.

 

[DWK2]

I agree that really aggressive jimping (wide and sharp-edged grooves) can be hard on the skin of a city dweller. However, if it is too fine it might load up with fat/blood/etc. when you are field dressing an animal. I like sort of a medium file-type finish or checkering, as you describe.

As for jimping nearer the tip, I've seen it on several knives owned by friends but can't recall who made them. There'd still be plenty of bare spine between those points for firesteel use (and the checkered area might work just as well anyway).

I'd like thong tubes, front and rear, but I admit that the chance I'd ever convert the knife to a spear point would be remote. Nonetheless, I don't see a big downside to having them so long as the handle is otherwise firmly attached.

DancesWithKnives

 

[James_Terrio]

DWK, I too would seriously hesitate to use my knife as a spear... but I think the option might come in handy in a one-in-a-million situation. Thong tubes are no less secure than pins if the knife is properly constructed, so why not?

There's also a safety factor involved; I learned this from reading about competition cutters... a wrist thong mounted near the blade tends to keep the knife handle very close to your hand, whereas one near the butt will allow the knife to swing around a lot more if you drop it.

Sure, they could get filled up with gunk, but hey, you got a knife, cut a little piece of wood or something and clean it out!