If only Kershaw would stop bead blasting...

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Jan 9, 2006
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I would be a huge fan!

There's a lot of their knives that I really like, but the problem is all of them (that I own) are bead blasted, which really seems to attract rust spots where I live (NY) without even being left wet.

Just sitting on my desk my Kershaws have all gotten some rust speckling, whereas all my non bead-blasted knives remain completely rust free. What gives Kershaw? Is a simple satin finish or stonewash too much to ask?
 
Kershaw has many models that are not bead blasted. Clean the bead blasted ones with Flitz or any similar mild polish and it will fix it up. If you don't want to do that, just don't buy them. More blades for me:).
 
Living in Michigan I see what I think as a wide range of climate changes. I on rare occasion will oil a blade but I always wipe them down after use, no rust, no nothing, maybe I just don't get out enough but I don't see how everyone has such a problem with rust. 5 seconds of daily care for your blade goes a long way, I don't know maybe I'm just lucky :confused:
 
I'm down here in Louisiana where it is plenty humid and I have to clean mine off at the end of each day if I don't want them rusting without doing anything to them. Though I have used flitz on some of them and it has done an excellent job at stopping all the rust spots.
 
I live near baltic ocean. I had left my oiled Zing in drawer in orignal palstic bag + box. I took it out for few month's later into rotation and what I saw: few small specs of rust. I didn't believe so I had to check twice: Yes, bonified rust specs. So I spent 30 mins rinse it clean. So when ever I carry Kershaw, I clean it extra carefully. DLC coating is very nice though. My all black leek is very nice. DLC is very good, though and corrosion resistant coating.
 
What gives Kershaw? Is a simple satin finish or stonewash too much to ask?
Actually, yes, it is too much to ask.

As a volume manufacturer (please try to keep this in mind), our factory is set up in ways that are different than the specialty manufacturer. Our primary business/sales are based on moving large quantities of USA made knives. Not specialty manufacturer quantities, large quantities. With this type of high traffic business, there are deadlines, cancel dates, fill rates, quota's, etc that have to be met. The consequences in missing them, or coming up short on a scorecard is unacceptable. Our factory is set up to meet these stringent expectations, and we can bead blast in quantity, lots of quantity.

Although you seem to feel that a satin or stonewash finish is simple, it isn't for our business as we have to meet our high capacity demands. With the set up we have in place internally, this would just not be possible with these other 2 finishes. So to answer your question above, that's what gives.

I will say that corrosion is not a complaint that we regularly hear about, but apologize to those who this have negatively effected.

Our 14C28N core steel that we use has addressed corrosion, and is an improvement over the 13C26 we were using. Additionally we do prep the steel prior to bead blasting to further assist with corrosion resistance. The below image shows the improvement with 14C28N in identical fog test(s) that were conducted on two bead-blasted samples.

13C26vs14C28N.jpg


We do try to incorporate optional finishes; rainbow, DLC, stonewash, polished, etc. to give consumers choices, and I think we do a decent job with that balance. Especially when it comes to our boutique runs, when we regularly stray from our everyday bead blast.

Hopefully there is enough flavors to go around for everyone, especially for those that don't like bead blast. :)
 
Honestly, if you love the knife but hate the beadblasting ( as I do ) then polish it off yourself !

It is very easy to do and the end result is satisfaction.

Tostig
 
I was getting small flecks of rust on my RAM (13C26), I rubbed it down with some Flitz and haven't had a single spec of rust since, and that was over 6 months ago. Also gave the finish a very attractive looking sheen, should probably reapply some soon just to make sure my beloved RAM remains untarnished :)

Or as the previous poster has said, if you really want it polished you could always do it by hand.
 
Kershaw has many models that are not bead blasted. Clean the bead blasted ones with Flitz or any similar mild polish and it will fix it up. If you don't want to do that, just don't buy them. More blado es for me:).


EXACTLY! I don't use Flitz, though I have some, I use mad wheel polish instead and it does a great job on the finish. Kershaws seem to use a very fine media to blast with and the polishes seem to polish away some of the top layer resulting in closed pore surface.
 
I've never had a problem with corrosion with the Kershaws I have... of course I do live in NM where the humidity is very very low. Even if I lived somewhere else, I love the designs enough that I'd buy them anyway. BTW, Nose grease is a fine, handy metal protector... :)
 
I sweat like a pig and I still haven't gotten any of the 14C bead blasted stuff to rust. It seems some people have the right elements in their environment to get rust spots.

Either that or I'm greasy enough to keep them protected ;)
 
Hi ThomasW, I understand now why Kershaw chooses to bead blast most of their blades, although I find it somewhat disappointing. I guess I will have to simply put some elbow grease in and polish the knives I like that do not come in alternate finish options.

As long as you're here, mind weighing in on the possibility of a DLC Skyline?
 
As long as you're here, mind weighing in on the possibility of a DLC Skyline?
We just finished up a brown G-10 DLC variation of the Skyline as an exclusive for a larger customer. The model # is a 1760BRNCKT.
 
I sweat like a pig and I still haven't gotten any of the 14C bead blasted stuff to rust. It seems some people have the right elements in their environment to get rust spots.

Either that or I'm greasy enough to keep them protected ;)

Lots of sweat here as well and no problems with rust on the 14C28N. I did have some with the 13C26 before I started using Scotchbrite pads on them. I have a JYD that looked about like the 2nd 13c26 blade that Thomas posted. It is now polished with 2000 grit sandpaper.
May and June in Kansas City = lots of sweat and very high humidity. Carried my 2445st at work all last spring and summer no rust at all.:thumbup:

Thanks for the pictures Thomas.
 
I like the bead blast just fine, myself - doesn't look too shabby and ages well, imho (by which I mean I don't find it looks as bad as say, a DLC coating after years of use and doesn't show fingerprints or grime like satin or mirror finish). Other than a stonewash finish or a mirror finish, it's probably my favourite.
 
The bead blasting looks nice actually, though it does get scratched up. In SoCal corrosion resistance is not an issue, so I still like it.
 
Thomas, why does the G-10 Hawk have a satin finish and the Chill a beadblast finish? Both made in China. Both have the same steel, liners, G-10 handles, and are roughly the same size. Both run at the same price point. The chill should have a satin finish too.
 
Thomas, why does the G-10 Hawk have a satin finish and the Chill a beadblast finish? Both made in China. Both have the same steel, liners, G-10 handles, and are roughly the same size. Both run at the same price point. The chill should have a satin finish too.
I believe you meant to say the Chill "could" have a satin finish. ;)

My best answer is "I don't know". :)
 
Here in the Land of Ice, Snow and Rain rust isn't a problem I see on the Kershaws that I carry. Or I just use way too much Oil. :D It's from carrying Carbon blades for many moons, I guess.

BTW I've always liked the look of Bead Blast. :thumbup:
 
Wow, thanks for great pictures Thomas. It seems 14C28N is great improvement over 13C26. Though I love my Kershaw's in both steels... So I basicly don't mind the extra care beadblast might give me.... I wonder if there ever going to be DLC coated skyline. That would be nice... or Satin finished.
 
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