I'm Curious about something...

The only reason I like screw pivots is because I absolutely hate blade play. It's probably my biggest issue when it comes to knives. I don't have a need to disassemble my folders to clean them since I can do a good job of that while they're together. There are a lot of people that say blade play doesn't affect the cutting performance, which is true, but man it gets on my nerves. If I could get a decent sheath for a 113, I would carry it a lot more just for that reason. Sorry Jeff, but the 113 sheaths aren't that great and the stitching keeps coming apart on me . A majority of my 110's and 112's don't have play, but the ones that do don't get carried often...
 
J Hubbard said:
While I understand why customers want to have an adjustable pivot on a liner lock, but why do people feel like they need one on a lockback?
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From my perspective it's not a feature that is needed for the 110 Folding Hunter if the knife is used for its design purpose as a folding hunting knife. I can see where it would be a good method of adjustment for a selector type knife with multiple blades. OH
 
JD Bear said:
The only reason I like screw pivots is because I absolutely hate blade play. It's probably my biggest issue when it comes to knives. I don't have a need to disassemble my folders to clean them since I can do a good job of that while they're together. There are a lot of people that say blade play doesn't affect the cutting performance, which is true, but man it gets on my nerves. If I could get a decent sheath for a 113, I would carry it a lot more just for that reason. Sorry Jeff, but the 113 sheaths aren't that great and the stitching keeps coming apart on me . A majority of my 110's and 112's don't have play, but the ones that do don't get carried often...
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If you had blade play in a 110 and put a screw set in the pivot, the fix would be grinding the bushing until it is just .001” - .002” thicker than the blade. The screw gives you access to the bushing and lets you clamp it when it is the correct width. Bushing work is best accomplished using a block with a hole in it that keeps the bushing square to the sandpaper resting on a surface plate.
 
tiguy7 said:
If you had blade play in a 110 and put a screw set in the pivot, the fix would be grinding the bushing until it is just .001” - .002” thicker than the blade. The screw gives you access to the bushing and lets you clamp it when it is the correct width. Bushing work is best accomplished using a block with a hole in it that keeps the bushing square to the sandpaper resting on a surface plate.
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You just got way too technical for me my friend. I'm good working on cars, but messing with my own knife pivot seems like something I don't really want to experiment with :thumbsup::D
 
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Old Hunter said:
From my perspective it's not a feature that is needed for the 110 Folding Hunter if the knife is used for its design purpose as a folding hunting knife. I can see where it would be a good method of adjustment for a selector type knife with multiple blades. OH
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The bushings in the old Selector series do not lend themselves to fine tuning because they are not removable from the knife. The bushing is molded into one side of the handle. Also blades tend to vary a little bit in thickness. So thinner blades exhibit more play. You can put Selector blades in the BCCI modular 110 and fine tune the adjustment.
 
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tiguy7, Thanks for the photo diagram. Yes, I've noticed that some Selector blades are a little thinner at their pivot than others. I'm not obsessed with blade play hence a little I don't mind. DM
 
A screw pivot on a bolstered knife would be hideous and on the classic 110 and 112, it's not necessary. Given a choice, however, I would prefer a screw pivot on my 112 Slims. Were the blade removeable, I would have carefully reshaped the tang to make it easier to open with my old thumbs. Before all of you panic and warn me of the consequences of such foolishness, I have done this before and I'm aware of the precision that's required.
 
I like the pinned construction on the original 110. Maybe screwed pin on a slim but would think washers would be needed instead of a bushing.
 
The bushing is placed in the pivot to give the blade a larger, stronger fulcrum. The 1/8” diameter pin squeezes the bolsters against the bushing to immobilize it. What would you make the washers out of, and where would you put them? Would the washers have holes for the bushing or would the bushing press against the washers? The bushings are about 7/32” diameter.
If the bushing went through the washers, it would have to be lengthened by the width of 2 washers so that the blade thickness could remain the same. Lengthening the the pivot bushing would spread the bolsters necessitating a wider rocker bushing, wider rocker, wider spring holder, and wider spring. The last item could change the action of the knife.
If the bushing sat on the washers, it would cause the same problem of widening the slot and require changes similar to those outlined above.
How would having the extra parts complicate cleaning the innards.
 
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For me why get an adjustable screw pivot when its some out of the norm security bit that is needed. 2 prong security bit probably never use again on order. Probably also find out it's a weak spring and not an adjustment. I'll stick to old school slip joints.

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tiguy7 said:
The bushing is placed in the pivot to give the blade a larger, stronger fulcrum. The 1/8” diameter pin squeezes the bolsters against the bushing to immobilize it. What would you make the washers out of, and where would you put them? Would the washers have holes for the bushing or would the bushing press against the washers? The bushings are about 7/32” diameter.
If the bushing went through the washers, it would have to be lengthened by the width of 2 washers so that the blade thickness could remain the same. Lengthening the the pivot bushing would spread the bolsters necessitating a wider rocker bushing, wider rocker, wider spring holder, and wider spring. The wider rocker would have to be narrowed at the dog tooth to fit between the washers. The last item could change the action of the knife.
If the bushing sat on the washers, it would cause the same problem of widening the slot and require changes similar to those outlined above.
How would having the extra parts complicate cleaning the innards.
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A 110 slim with no liners and Micarta scales I would think would need washers with an adjustable pivot. Maybe im wrong.
 
tiguy7 said:
Security fasteners have a place in public toilets to prevent the stalls from being stolen, but I don’t see the value for knife applications.
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I believe the thinking is this. Like any screw/nut assembly with a decent head, ecurity fasteners give more lateral strength than traditional flush peened pivots. This allows the knife to be withstand more prying pressure, thus more durable.

But, it also prevents or discouraged users from tinkering and wrecking their knives, thus flooding the warranty and repair department with knives that people have messed up and can't put back together right.

Leatherman takes the same approach on many of its tools, particularly the legacy ones.

I'm not advocating either way. But I believe this is the thinking.
 
I personally don't see a need for an adjustable pivot on the standard 110 and 112 type knives outside of, perhaps, limited addition offerings. I do see a place for them on the more modern construction knives including the LT and Slim lines. Almost every review I've seen on the Slim Pro knives features complaints about the pin construction. For a knife featuring premium steel, materials, and price, screw together construction seems to be expected because that is the standard in the industry for knives at that price point. Pinned construction on a $100 knife seems to cause collectors and enthusiasts to take Buck less seriously. The other issue is blade play. The LT and Slim lines (the Pros in particular) seem to suffer a higher rate of blade play issues than the traditional brass or nickle knives. I think a screw pivot that would allow the user to fix that issue at home with a little adjustment would be considered an improvement over that current pinned construction where you have no choice but to live with it or send it back (or to Buck). I would assume that if the pinned knives consistently had solid lock up with no blade play, there would be less requests for screws instead of pins. I think a lot of people also assume that a pinned knife will develop blade play over time and they won't be able to adjust the pivot to get rid of it.
 
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