~Project Complete!~ I'm making friction folders! What blade steels do you want to see in them?

Which blade steel would you most like to see in a 3" bladed EDC friction folder?

  • Total voters
    151
b00n said:
Consider making a L or XL version. I would dig a larger one :thumbsup: (S35VN for my vote)
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Were you thinking of something like a 4" blade, or longer still?
 
b00n said:
I think 4 or maybe 4.25 would be really good. I like big folders but I wouldn't go beyond that. Did you have ideas for handle material?
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G10 is the most likely choice.
 
You could offer a "custom" with the steel of their choice from your list?
That would might maybe possibly theoretically make "everyone" happy. :)
 
afishhunter said:
You could offer a "custom" with the steel of their choice from your list?
That would might maybe possibly theoretically make "everyone" happy. :)
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This is true, but it does add extra steps to producing in batches. I'm totally open to doing one-offs of whatever steel, but the goal right now is to make a standardized model to keep in stock (more blades of the same kind, the more I can mill/heat treat at once). If they are popular enough, I could see myself doing two steel types for production.
 
I'm interested---i love a friction folder especially with a bottle opener. CPM 154 would be my choice.
 
What steels are in your sweet spot? What is YOUR favorite?

Personally, I'd go with a steel that the maker is familiar with and can turn into the best product.

A friction folder this size and configuration isn't going to be super hard use, so any of those choices work fine.
 
Is there a noticeable difference between CPM S35Vn and CPM154 as far as belt life?
 
Velitrius said:
What steels are in your sweet spot? What is YOUR favorite?

Personally, I'd go with a steel that the maker is familiar with and can turn into the best product.

A friction folder this size and configuration isn't going to be super hard use, so any of those choices work fine.
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I can respect that! I actually have a bit of a soft spot for CPM154, I love how easily it takes a razor edge, and how long it keeps that level of sharpness. Conversely, S35VN seems to keep a working sharpness longer, and is a fair amount tougher; this makes it a little harder for me to choose, and is why I have several knives with both. I actually enjoy working with both of them as well.
 
NJBillK said:
Is there a noticeable difference between CPM S35Vn and CPM154 as far as belt life?
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Not in a way that is very noticable. S35VN seems a little more harsh on my tooling, but I'm also working on a mill, so the only time the blades touch a belt is during sharpening.
 
The_Iron_Joe said:
Like the title says. I've been developing this for a while, and in the next month or so I'll be making them; first prototypes are done, I'm just trying to narrow down materials for a first batch. I'm looking to keep these as affordable as possible, so that's why I've chosen those particular steels; I want to know what steel people would prefer, hence the poll. GKD seemed like the best place to get opinions from a wide range of users here.

Blade is 3", handle is 4.25". Extended tang "stick" is exposed for one-handed opening. Currently debating whether I should go about making pocket clips or not.

Edited to add; since it's come up a few times now, the handle material will most likely be G10.

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Way to be unique. I want one just like in the photo.

As long as the design works. I love CPM-154, S35VN, D2 all the same. They also take a beating and hold an edge. As long as the fall in the 58-61 range.
 
The_Iron_Joe said:
I can respect that! I actually have a bit of a soft spot for CPM154, I love how easily it takes a razor edge, and how long it keeps that level of sharpness. Conversely, S35VN seems to keep a working sharpness longer, and is a fair amount tougher; this makes it a little harder for me to choose, and is why I have several knives with both. I actually enjoy working with both of them as well.
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Do you have an estimate for thickness of stock and thickness BTE?

Will this be built as a slicer or a utility?

I wouldn't mind a pocket slicer, brought down to .015" BTE or less. I carry a Busse Park Ranger daily for harder work, and a custom slip joint for utility where the PR would be overkill.
 
My vote so far is as follows.

Size- roughly the size of a full sized trapper. About 4”ish

Handle material- I love natural micarta. Almost looks like wood so it keeps the traditional look (arguably important with a friction folder) while offering the advantages of the modern material.

Steel- don’t care. Cheap and easy to sharpen to a fine edge is the key here. If I had my druthers, it’d be BD1 but that’s probably not for most. I think D2 if it becomes more available to you. If not, something of the 154 persuasion.

Bottle opener- hell yes.

Blade grind- ffg sheepsfoot would be my preference but I admit that there is likely broader appeal for a clip or drop point.
 
19-3ben said:
My vote so far is as follows.

Size- roughly the size of a full sized trapper. About 4”ish

Handle material- I love natural micarta. Almost looks like wood so it keeps the traditional look (arguably important with a friction folder) while offering the advantages of the modern material.

Steel- don’t care. Cheap and easy to sharpen to a fine edge is the key here. If I had my druthers, it’d be BD1 but that’s probably not for most. I think D2 if it becomes more available to you. If not, something of the 154 persuasion.

Bottle opener- hell yes.

Blade grind- ffg sheepsfoot would be my preference but I admit that there is likely broader appeal for a clip or drop point.
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I would love to see a handle shaped like a Saddlehorn, with a straight back/trailing point.
Maximize the slicing nature and cutting edge length for blade length.
 
19-3ben 19-3ben
I wouldn't mind using micarta, but G10 is going to be more readily available and affordable for me, at least for the time being. As always, upon request things can change, including blade profiles. Interesting that you are also interested in a longer blade, I may need to draw up a larger version.

NJBillK NJBillK
The current design is about 0.05" behind the edge as it was meant to be a utility blade, but if changed to a full flat or hollow it could be reduced further, of course. I'll probably have such a thing available as a standard option.
 
Would a light detent for the closed position be too hard to add? That would let you put a tip up pocket clip on it and have a properly sexy and highly utilitarian one handed friction folder. Not something that has much of a presence in the market.
 
dkb45 said:
Would a light detent for the closed position be too hard to add? That would let you put a tip up pocket clip on it and have a properly sexy and highly utilitarian one handed friction folder. Not something that has much of a presence in the market.
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I am trying to think where the detent ball would be located that would allow for horizontal movement to act as a detent does.

The only thing I can think of is a compression washer on both sides of the blade allowing for a slight amount of horizontal play in the blade, that would give the blade enough play to move around a static detent.

You wouldn't need much movement, since you would be making up for 1/4 - 1/3 of the detent ball height. But we know that knife knuts like us, are a bit manic when it comes to blade play. Though necessary, a designed implement like that, would be a hard sell, IMHO.
 
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I might as well add my little preferences :

- Steel : a real stainless is definitely nice for a pocket knife, so my vote goes to 154 CM or CPM154 (only good experiences with both).
- Blade : thin, FFG (a "hard use folder" is a bit of an oxymoron, IMO. I get the most use out of my light, slicer folders).
- Handle : G10 is fine with me, Micarta, too. Both can be had in nice colours, figures and textures. And have high mechanical resistance.
- Pattern : trailing point blade and saddlehorn handle sounds just awesome to me.
- Pocket clip : positioning the knife in the pocket is an excellent idea (especially with the protruding tang) but I'd much more prefer a pocket sheath (leather or Kydex) with clip. Might up the price a bit but you could offer it as an option. A clip bolted on the knife would ruin the ergos (and the looks), IMO.
 
On the subject of detent : I never had the need for it. Adequately tightening the pivot point makes for enough retaining force when closed, while still allowing easy one hand opening. It's a simple, efficient and age old design. Adding the bells and whistles of modern folders would spoil it, IMO.
 
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