Imitation Ivory and other alternatives?

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Jun 20, 2007
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I am working on replicating an 1800's piece that had an ivory handle. The problem is being able to get or afford real ivory!
To replicate the handle I will need a block of ivory, approx. 5"+ in length and approx. 1 1/4" in diameter.

Has anyone ever used imitation ivory that can tell me about it, and how it works?

Does it look real?

Is there a site where I can buy it in block form?

Is there another alternative to real ivory?


Ivory real or imitation especially a chunk this large, (well lets just say the thought makes me nervous to say the least)! Especially since this handle will need to be drilled similar to a hidden tang knife and has a lot of scroll work on the exposed side.
Any thoughts or assistance on this one would be greatly appreciated, ivory imitation or other wise has not been a choice in the past for one of my handles!
 
I have used imatation ivory and it works like a dream, its wierd stuff. You know it a plastic but it really does work like ivory. The only issue I had was finishing, it seemed to quickly adsorb oils or finger prints. I had to finish it in the house at my office desk on clean white sheets of paper, wrap and send to client. But I was probably being fussy.

I would us it again but would like to hear some finish alternatives. Cant remember where I purchase from.
 
I've tried several kinds of imitation/alternate ivory and can't say any of it works for me. One big problem is that a lot of it is *very* brittle - a modest whack on an edge (that real ivory wouldn't even notice) will spall off a big chip. Another problem with a lot of it - especially "composite" ivories - are bubbles or "color voids" (kind of like a bubble filled with the base composite material) throughout the material - enough that you're almost sure to have one or more on the surface of any handle you make out of it.
 
There is no substitute for real ivory that will pass a close look. The alternative ivory works well for one piece grips, but is a tad soft for scales. It wants to curl with only a little heat. I can tell you where to get real ivory, but as you said, it is expensive.
 
Depending on what you're looking for, ivory/bone paper Micarta might do the trick - and it's certainly durable enough. Sheffield Knifemakers Supply has it in 1 1/8"x1 1/2"x5" blocks and 1 1/8" thick sheets.
 
The stuff I bought was simply called white linnen Micarta and worked great. Got it from Sheffields years ago. Not as strong as sheep horn, but had its own beauty after time and scrimmed real well.
 
I've tried several kinds of imitation/alternate ivory and can't say any of it works for me. One big problem is that a lot of it is *very* brittle - a modest whack on an edge (that real ivory wouldn't even notice) will spall off a big chip. Another problem with a lot of it - especially "composite" ivories - are bubbles or "color voids" (kind of like a bubble filled with the base composite material) throughout the material - enough that you're almost sure to have one or more on the surface of any handle you make out of it.


This mirrors my experience to a tee with alternative ivory. I finished out a single blade slipjoint and after taping very lightly on one of the pins, cracked the scale:mad: replaced the one scale with a new piece and sure enough right on the edge along side the bolster was a bubble , double :mad:

Last time i used the stuff, but again, as Zerogee recommends, paper ivory Micarta works well.

Good luck , which ever way you go!

Ken
 
This mirrors my experience to a tee with alternative ivory. I finished out a single blade slipjoint and after taping very lightly on one of the pins, cracked the scale:mad: replaced the one scale with a new piece and sure enough right on the edge along side the bolster was a bubble , double :mad:

Last time i used the stuff, but again, as Zerogee recommends, paper ivory Micarta works well.

Good luck , which ever way you go!

Ken

YEAH, but the big question is could you pass "paper ivory Micarta" off as ivory?
I am looking for something that looks like ivory but not something that is not brittle, remember I said it has to be drilled as if for a hidden tang knife and on the outside it has to be groved and spiraled both on the outside to match the origional handle style of the handle I am replicating. I am thinking that leaves out brittle.
I had even thought of wood however after the grooves and the spiral I can see that splitting off easily. This may be exactly why the origional was cut from ivory!
At this point I am torn as too what direction to go!OK the big question a piece of ivory 5"+ length and 1 1/4" diameter. What does something like that cost? Or do I even want to know?
 
The problem with ivory/bone paper micarta versus real ivory in looks is that the ivory paper micarta has no grain or color variation like the real thing -- for that, it might be a better bet to try white linen micarta (I don't have any and haven't tried any but I'd say it's well worth a look see if you can find blocks of it). Another possibility is antique linear paper micarta, which has layers of lighter and darker antique ivory colored paper -- remember though, it's not really white or off-white, so it may not be what you're looking for. You can carve either paper or linen micarta and you won't have brittleness problems.
 
It will not work for a hidden tang but giraffe bone from the large leg bones looks very much like ivory and is VERY durable. I buy the largest thigh and shin bones occasionally to just hang onto and have had some aging for years now.
 
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Where can I get a chunck of bone Micarta the size I need 5"x1 1/4" to make my handle from? This handle has to be cut from a block!

As I noted earlier, Sheffield Knifemakers Supply has it in 1 1/8"x1 1/2"x5" blocks - if it absolutely has to be 1 1/4" thick, give them a call - they may have some that is that thick (micarta sheets can be a bit approximate in their thickness).
 
The best imitation ivory I've seen is made by Tru Ivory. It looks good but grinds quickly.

I prefer real ivory. Mammoth ivory core or elephant ivory does not cost that much.
 
Boxwood has the appearance of aged ivory, even up close.

pennyknife714_640x480.jpg
 
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