Importance of Grain Alignment?

[jeremy1517]

I'd like to know, from experience, how important grain alignment actually is in axe handles?

In a perfect world, I know the grain would like to be running in line with the blade.

How bad is it to have a grain pattern off from parallel or even perpendicular to the blade edge?

What can happen?

Reason I ask, I have no where near me to buy handles from so I order everything. I recently ordered two handles, asking for premium handles, but I'm less than pleased with what I received.

I will be placing a light 1 3/4 head on a 28" handle. I know it's a light head for that length but I really like the feel.

I ordered one curved boys axe handle and one straight single bit handle.

The curved handle has great alignment but has slight cracks in the "butt" (bottom) of the handle. (Not sure if its a big issue)

The Straight handle has great wood, all sap wood, BUT the grain runs straight perpendicular to the blade edge.

Would the bad grain alignment be a bad thing with the handle or should I go with the handle with good alignment but slight cracks?

Thoughts?

 

[wdmn]

This doesn't completely answer your question but worth a read: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...-broken-immediately?highlight=grain+alignment

 

[300Six]

Cracks at the butt are no big deal as long as they're not deep. Means the wood was seasoned a bit too fast or they didn't seal the ends well enough during that time. Most any handle will work satisfactorily for occasional or light work but since you're re-hafting your own you can afford to be downright fussy. Grain perpendicular to the head is least desirable as is that phenomena everyone refers to as runout. Beggars can't be choosers these days with good handles hard to come by unless you physically have the opportunity to go through a pile of blanks yourself, or the seller understands exactly what it is you are looking for.

 

[jeremy1517]

Here are pics. See anything? I don't know what grain runout looks like. I really want to use the straight handle but will use the other if better. Straight is on the right

 

[wdmn]

It's hard to tell from your pictures whether the curved one has runout, but in the last image the straight handle with all of the heartwood appears to. If you're looking down at the handle from the perspective you took the photo, see how the grain starting at the top left runs on a diagonal across the handle so that it ends up on the bottom right by the butt? This is very visible because it coincides with the division between heartwood and sapwood. I'm not sure, but I think runout split between heartwood and sapwood is even worse... maybe someone who knows more can verify or refute that.

This is how run out breaks:

 

[300Six]

It's hard to tell from your pictures whether the curved one has runout, but in the last image the straight handle with all of the heartwood appears to. If you're looking down at the handle from the perspective you took the photo, see how the grain starting at the top left runs on a diagonal across the handle so that it ends up on the bottom right by the butt? This is very visible because it coincides with the division between heartwood and sapwood. I'm not sure, but I think runout split between heartwood and sapwood is even worse... maybe someone who knows more can verify or refute that.

This is how run out breaks:

Graphic example! You can readily see that the break coincides with lengthwise orientation of the grain. The grain is not continuous through the full length and literally 'runs out'.

 

[Bo T]

Graphic example! You can readily see that the break coincides with lengthwise orientation of the grain. The grain is not continuous through the full length and literally 'runs out'.

Also note in this case that the break occurs in the area of the greatest stress when chopping. When you hit a knot or if you twist your handle when cutting the lateral stress is enough to break the wood fibers. I have only broke a couple of handles but any that I have seen have been in the upper third of the handle. If you are going to use these you might wrap the upper part of the handles.

I would not purchase either of these handles off the rack. I do not consider either of these handles 'premium'.

 

[jeremy1517]

They definitely aren't premium. I placed an order from house handles and they're what I got. I just want to know which would give me the least possible issues.

 

[Square_peg]

When I was younger I used to frame houses. It was common to see a hammer handle fail while someone was pulling a nail. Invariably these handles has grain aligned perpendicular to the force applied by the hammer. I only needed to break one such handle before I learned to avoid them.

Run out can be even worse. Some times the run out handle will crack all the way through and fall in two pieces. But more often it will open up just enough to let some of your flesh in before springing back closed and giving you a blood blister to write home about. You don't want any part of that.

Be selective, take your time, choose a good handle. Grain alignment 20°-30° off isn't necessarily a bad thing. If you like to pry sideways on your axe to break open a partial split then you risk breaking a haft with 'perfect ' grain because you would be prying cross grain (very easy to do with the narrow eye of a pulaski). And angled grain can resist that sideways prying better than perfect grain. Save those 'perfect grain' handles for axes reserved for chopping/bucking/felling.

 

[Operator1975]

I have busted handles with perfect grain and also with terrible grain. While the vertical alignment has the aura of being the best choice, which I am sure is true, there are so many other factors that go into breaking or not breaking a handle. Regular use or hard core use. Storage inside or out. Treatment with oils or not. Then good ole operator error as well. Plus however many more.

 

[idaho_crosscut]

i am pretty sure that the straight handle actually does have near perfect grain. the perpendicular lines you are seeing are the marks left by the saw. the grain is very tight... but i might be mistaken. take a rasp or some coarse sand paper and sand that butt down till it is smooth and you get the laquer off.

also, i have been running an axe handle with perpendicular alignment with a heartwood split AND a runout halfway thru the handle-- it is on my main chopper which is a 4.5lb jersey axe. I heavily use this axe during my trail season chopping out logs and other axe work, and no problems yet! just be prepared to re-hang your axe when the handle does break. thats just what handles do

 

[300Six]

I suppose if integrity and reliability of a handle was near and dear to you (ie you're far away from home and have a 'has to be done' agenda) then fitting two handles, setting the wedge on one, and carrying the other (along with another wedge) as an on site spare is a possibility. At this moment your investment is not substantial and neither handle is what I would refer to as 'firewood'.

 

[Cajun Kamikaze]

Idaho is right about your straight handle, it's grain orientation and the saw markings.... Only thing is the split between sap and hardwood....

 

[300Six]

Idaho is right about your straight handle, it's grain orientation and the saw markings.... Only thing is the split between sap and hardwood....

There is no need to differentiate between live wood and deadwood. They do not readily separate between the divisions and merely discolour over time through plugging of the active transport vessels. Appearance-wise one version looks wonderful for custom furniture and yet the same effect seems to repel handle buyers.

 

[Fox940]

IMHO they both look like decent handles. Hang em and use em.

 

[jpeeler]

I think the impact the handle will have to sustain has a lot to do with it. If you're handling a boy's axe with a 2 lb head, I don't think grain and sap wood purity is such a huge deal. However, if you're swinging a 12 lb sledge on a 36" handle, you should look for the purest handle available. Same goes for the big falling axes or heavy splitting axes. The withstand tones of impact and need better grain alignment to withstand the work.

I would use the handles you have, no worries.

Also, all that being said, I am usually irrationally particular about the handles I use. Took me a month to find a handle I liked for a special head.

 

[idaho_crosscut]

I think the impact the handle will have to sustain has a lot to do with it. If you're handling a boy's axe with a 2 lb head, I don't think grain and sap wood purity is such a huge deal. However, if you're swinging a 12 lb sledge on a 36" handle, you should look for the purest handle available. Same goes for the big falling axes or heavy splitting axes. The withstand tones of impact and need better grain alignment to withstand the work.

I would use the handles you have, no worries.

Also, all that being said, I am usually irrationally particular about the handles I use. Took me a month to find a handle I liked for a special head.

I have found that with heavier heads, the most important thing is to have good accuracy and a thinner handle. when you thin the handle out, it reduces a LOT of the felt vibrations when chopping. I can only assume that the weight distribution is such that the forces are centered more towards the head, and don't continue to resonate down the handle. Furthermore.... more force in the head and less in the hands infers more chopping power and longer lasting handles.

as far as hanging sledge hammers... they are tough. the eyes are so narrow and short that inexperienced users (and tired folks, me included) produce a lot of impact on the base when just the toe of the striking face is hit repeatedly. this seems to break the heads clean off right at the base. But i guess that is really for another thread

 

[Bridger]

Also, all that being said, I am usually irrationally particular about the handles I use. Took me a month to find a handle I liked for a special head.

I'm glad I'm not the only one. I ended up going home with a bunch of 8/4 hickory lumber instead. I live about 4 hours from House Handle. I really need to go for a visit someday this Spring and pick some straight from the source.

 

[Cajun Kamikaze]

Awesome thanks. I just picked up a huge load of fresh cut Hickory. The tree was about 40 yrs old and its been down about 2 months now. I plan on making a few handles out of several pieces I have. Would it be best to use the heart or the sap wood? Looks like I could get a few from the heart and a few more from the sap in a few pieces...

 

[300Six]

The transport vessels will be plugged-up with mineral deposits and 'debris' in the heartwood and not so in the sapwood. This is what causes the discolouration and should not have much affect on strength and durability.