In a bit over my head with a kitchen knife

C

Callum.D

Joined
Jul 17, 2015
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I'm still relatively green to this hobby (only about 20 smallish knives so far) and I had the idiotic idea that I might try my hand at a larger blade. This is a 8'' chef blank which I forged from a Nicholson rasp.

I know, I know, mystery steels are heresy but I've made most of my knives from old Nicholson files, it is just what I am familiar with. I used to get loads of the from the farrier I worked for in the summer.

This is the largest knife I have attempted so far and I was really happy with how accurately I managed to forge it to. I am just a little stumped as how to smoothly transition from blade to handle. I really don't want a plunge line as it is a look I personally hate in chef knives and would seem like a really good place for rust to collect. My current approach has been to grind the bevel at a diagonal and then allow the blade to tradition to the flat tang in a kind of radius around the heel of the blade which, at least in my head, works (I hope all that made at least a little sense). Anyway, I was wondering what you wise fellas would do to tackle this particular dilemma of mine. Any help is sorely needed and greatly appreciated.
 
Butch Harner did a nice video a few years ago. This is how I learned...
 
The other thing you might try is a slack belt blending. Not sure how difficult it would be with your particular knife. A rotary platen helps tremendously.
You just have to be careful not to ride over onto where the scales will sit. If you do, you can regrind the handle flat.
 
If the blade is thin enough, blending the transition is not that big a deal, even with a full tang western style blade
IMG_0367_zps8164674d.jpg IMG_0446.jpg
 
after you do it a few times you dont even thinkn nabout it anymore biggest trick for full tang knives is not grinding where thescales are going to be or you then need to contore the under side of the scales to get rid of gaps
 
Wow! That looks like it takes quite a steady pair of hands to pull that off correctly. I applaud those who are capable. My one hand action certainly would have far too much trouble. All kitchen knives I make get the standard Japanese style flat V-grind.

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I do the sweeping plunge like shown in Butch's video(thanks Butch)and then I switch to a contact wheel to finish blending. Hold the knife tip down and start at the tang and draw to the tip on the contact wheel. Keep moving and careful at the tip. Then go back to the flat platen and true up the tang so you don't have any gaps when you mount the scales. Like anything it takes a little practice but this it how I do all my plungeless knives.
 
butcher_block said:
after you do it a few times you dont even thinkn nabout it anymore biggest trick for full tang knives is not grinding where thescales are going to be or you then need to contore the under side of the scales to get rid of gaps
Click to expand...
 
How committed are you to the full tang design? The kitchen does not require the kind of strength associated will a full tang design. Also, it is only beneficial to reduce any areas where moisture may delaminate a seam over time. You can still use a middle "frame" type piece of material like g10 and assemble the handle alot like a full tang knife. I think it is especially preferable when using non stainless steels.
 
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