Incomplete billet weld - what to do?

weo

weo

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Sep 21, 2014
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Hello all. I've finally gotten my first incomplete weld on my initial billet for my latest project and wondering what to do.
The starting material was 7 layers of 5160 (1/4" x 1") and 6 layers of 15N20 (each layer, 3 pieces of .070") to make a stack 8" long and 3+" tall. I've done a number of billets this size, of 1095/15N20, 1080/15N20 and O1/15N20 (but 1 1/2" wide).

NcU7ep2.jpg


When I ground off the scale before drawing out the stack, I noticed that the center weld on the 3-4" closest to the handle doesn't appear to have fused. I'm fairly confident I had it up to heat and soaked it long enough as this was the 3rd billet I made yesterday. I also don't think this billet was too big, because most of my billets are about that size (although I suppose I've been pushing the limits each time so far).
Is 5160/15N20 that much different to forge weld?
Can I cut this billet in half, pop the non-fused pieces apart, regrind and re-weld them to the stack?
Thanks.
 
Stick it in a bucket of kerosene and let it soak for half an hour. Take it out, let the excess runoff, and stick it back in the forge. Bring it up to full welding heat and let it soak for 10 minutes. Weld it us solid, hammering/pressing from both sides. Let cool slowly and check again. If it still shows a tad, grind in a bit deeper in that area to see if it is only showing along the outer line.
 
Thanks, Stacy. Not that I don't believe/trust you, but thought more info would be good. Here are close ups of either side of the billet.

RGGsh0c.jpg

b5ZW19T.jpg
 
I do not believe that 5160 is the best choice for a smith with less experience. The small amount of chrome can cause problems. 5160 also doesn’t move as easy as steels like 1095. I always recommend 1084 and 15n20.

Hoss
 
5160 HATES to forge weld, and it’s about impossible to forge weld it to its self. I have forge welded it befor but it was a single layer and just a core with layers 1075 and 15n20 on the sides. It’s maybe my eyes but I only see the cold shut on one side. Could it just be shallow and able to be ground out?
 
You're correct, JT and your eyes aren't deceiving you, the non-weld is only apparent on one side. I have already ground probably 20 thou, and that line hasn't changed much. I'm just not sure how much further to grind. I was thinking about cutting the billet into two 4" pieces, then split the half at the questionable weld, and then re-stack and weld again, making a 4" long billet (but that'd be about 6" tall....so will I do it in one or 2 steps....hmmmmm)
 
Now I'm flustered...the cold shut is between 2 of the 15N20 pieces. I wonder what happened.
What's the definition of a little deeper?:confused:
 
I would take the angle grinder and grind a groove along the line to see if it disappears. If it doesn't go away, cut and re-stack the billet along the line. If it disappears, just continue as planned.
 
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