Is anyone else excited for the Caribbean?

This ^^^^^ Beach visits with a full form factor knife. Lightweights are OK but some of us want a full frame knife that is rust proof and holds a plain edge well.
 
Maybe a Para2 or a Manix2 in H1 would be an awesome sprint.

Anyone know the answer to my earlier question though? How does LC200N hold up to corrosion compoared to H1? I ask because H1 essentially does not rust, is it the same with LC200N or is LC200N just highly rust resistant?
 
^^^ I believe the catalogue described it as a nitrogen based steel as well, completely rustproof.
 
I've been loving LC200N. Easy to sharpen, keeps a edge about in between VG10 and S30V. This will be a winner for sure!
 
I'm in the Puget Sound a lot with my Spydiechef and have yet to see any rust. It's just as good as H1.
Maybe a Para2 or a Manix2 in H1 would be an awesome sprint.

Anyone know the answer to my earlier question though? How does LC200N hold up to corrosion compoared to H1? I ask because H1 essentially does not rust, is it the same with LC200N or is LC200N just highly rust resistant?
 
What excites me even more than the Caribbean, is the idea of this steel being used in full sized non role specific knives. Imagine this steel on the new Police 4 or a Military, Delica, Endura etc, i would buy them in a heartbeat. Please Sal consider doing sprints on other knives with this steel, i mean who doesn't want a steel that wont rust? gives you so much piece of mind.
 
I used my mule all weekend in the salt. In filleted fish, cut lines, guess other fish, cut bait, and it's still sharp. Oh, and it was gross and i washed it with salt water... No rust. No marks. H1 scratches really easily. This still looks new. Could result be my new favorite steel considering How much time i spend in the water.
 
Eagerly awaiting this one. I care not one bit for the bumblebee color scheme, but it shouldn't be too hard to slap on some two-tone home-baked micarta instead of the factory scales...

 
Keep in mind I am in the high desert of Colorado.
Who doesn't wan't a blade that won't rust?
I don't. That is, so far, I prefer nonstainless alloys for how they sharpen and wear and even how they look.
That said I have some H1.
Since you brought up M4 (see last photo) . . . I have intentionally been experimenting with my M4 and things that stain it. The first time I used it, cutting roast chilies, avocado and fresh lemons it stained big time. HANG ON . . . my whole point is I attempted to get it more so and darker (one side hardly stained). Man I did this many times; I used lemon, I added salt and rubbed it and left it for an hour. More of the other foods I mentioned. Last night I cut up lemons and limes, rubbed it all over and left it over night and late into the morning. I then washed it with hot water and soap and just folded it up and put it in my pocket wet.

No rust and hardly any change in the previous staining which isn't really that much compared to what I have done to plain high carbon.

Yes I know I can go hot vinegar etc., I'm just talking about the worst this knife would see in normal use. I even cut and rubbed the blade with cooked beef and left it.

NOW
Somebody show me some rust on a well used M4 blade.
(I realize the lock and liners etc., if any are desirable in the rust proof alloys)
Just talking blade for now.
 
Hi Shady,

We're currently testing LC200N for use as a compression lock. Spring tension, harness, lock strength, etc. We'll be using LC200N for both the blade and the lock. Early models will be two tone G-10. Sales will determine need for a less expensive light weight model.

sal

Mr. Glesser,

First, thank you for responding to my question. As a fan and user for over 20 years, I'm honored to recieve a direct response from you. I'm more than excited about LC200N being tested for use in the liners and lock. If it helps with sales I'll personally purchase one of each model to generate the demand for a lightweight model.

Second, I have been carrying a Pacific Salt for the last 4 years. It is probably my most carried knife. Usually, I carry it on long distance trail runs and I've never had any rusting issues. What steel is used for the lockbar? H1?

Also, very excited about the Salt 2s. Those are on my short list.
 
long distance trail runs

Long distance trail runner here. More like couch potato now but for most of my life . . . yah . . . concrete and pavement sucks, wild trails = :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
This is NOT a "nice" yellow, even though it is visible under water, I suppose. And, a thinner blade than 0.141" would be just fine with me.
 
Not a fan of the Blk/Yellow either, but it is a functional color. Would look good with the yellow layers only visible around the sides of the slabs w/the flats solid black.

Love the handle shape!
 
I like the black / yellow. It's functional and it's true to its salt linieage. I'm also glad they didn't skimp on the blade stock either. It's supposed to be a hard use folder for use around the water, I think they nailed it. Now I just want to know when I can get one ☝️
 
If it were US made with solid yellow scales I'd be even more on it. Can't wait to handle one at BLADE.
 
Thank you, Sal. I do appreciate your reasons for the slightly thicker blade. I can always have it thinned a bit if I need to.
Don
 
I'm thinking I'll have to get one. Lots of working around salt water, and I love the profile. I'm liking my H1 manbug, but it is a little small. And while I love my para3, I can't carry it at work... life is sometimes tough.. the Caribbean on the other hand..
 
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