Is CPM3V worth the extra money over 1095 Cro Van?

all of my s30v beckers are well loved.... one is a hard user, and i've been lucky so far to not have to sharpen it. nobody has broken one that i've heard of, but i've seen a few getting "toothy" from various tasks in the forums.

CPM3V just another spendy steel. KaBar has some i'm sure. they might even use it on some blades...

heck, maybe Ethan has an idea for a salt water fish knife :)
 
3V is good stuff but does micro chip.

It will hold a egde longer then 1095, its also about he same to sharpen IMO.
 
Thanks guys. I ordered the BK16 today and shipped it to get a custom kydex made.

I got the BK16 for $74 shipped. the Kydex will cost me $55. I am sure this package, with the warranty, will last me a lifetime.
 
CPM3V has a tighter grain pattern than the 1095, I have a BRKT bushcrafter that you could shave the nads on a fly with, but it takes a little work getting it there. Holds a great edge, and works out well, here, in my humid environment. But, so do my forced patina Beckers! No matter what I tote into the bush, my BK2 is always there, because, in the end, no matter what the other knife does or does not do, I know the BK2 WILL!
 
Isn't this a moot point, or one better served in the general discussion forum? Beckers are 1095cv. They are never going to be 3v. Its apples and oranges. I never hear Becker owners complaining about the steel, so what's the big deal? I mean, thats a HUGE jump in steel cost!
 
Isn't this a moot point, or one better served in the general discussion forum? Beckers are 1095cv. They are never going to be 3v. Its apples and oranges. I never hear Becker owners complaining about the steel, so what's the big deal? I mean, thats a HUGE jump in steel cost!

you are absolutely right. BK16 ordered
 
all of my s30v beckers are well loved.... one is a hard user, and i've been lucky so far to not have to sharpen it. nobody has broken one that i've heard of, but i've seen a few getting "toothy" from various tasks in the forums.

CPM3V just another spendy steel. KaBar has some i'm sure. they might even use it on some blades...

heck, maybe Ethan has an idea for a salt water fish knife :)
a 3v Divtul would be cool...
The idea of a dive/water knife has been toyed around with before in the Becker line, just not recently with our new super high end water steels.
a 3v bk8 would be cool too...
 
a 3v Divtul would be cool...
The idea of a dive/water knife has been toyed around with before in the Becker line, just not recently with our new super high end water steels.
a 3v bk8 would be cool too...

This is something I never thought I would hear from anyone other than myself, I thought I was the only person on this forum that thought the 8 looked like a nice toy, granted you wouldn't catch me dead or alive with just that thing, I would have 8 or 9 more Beckers on me.

As for the topic at hand, if it's a divtul or a salt water fish knife (as Bladite stated), one of those "super steels" would be perfect, but for anything else, 1095CV with forced patina (which reminds me, I need some gun blue, a vase, and another PM from mrn8).
 
a 3v Divtul would be cool...
The idea of a dive/water knife has been toyed around with before in the Becker line, just not recently with our new super high end water steels.
a 3v bk8 would be cool too...

FOAD :)

440C is all you get ;)
 
Ok, I am feeling the need to step in a sec to speak my mind on this as well. Especially since I'm the brand "X" in question. Let me begin by saying this comparison is more like Apples Vs. Apple Pie.
Lets first look at the cost difference, since that is the first thing this thread is about. Obviously as has already been stated, CPM-3V is a LOT more per pound than 1095 of any variety. We all know this.
Now the other things to take into account are that the two knives, while similar in size, are COMPLETELY different.

Beckers come with less expensive 1095, thick powder coat and injection molded poly handles. The powdercoat eliminates the need to finish the blades in any way since it hides the laser cutting marks. Plastic injection molded handles cost next to nothing to make, once the cost of the injection mold is absorbed. They can also afford to order entire mill orders of stock, rolled to the exact thickness they require for each design. That cuts precision surface grinding out of the equation. Utilizing a FFG makes bevel grinding much cheaper as well. And then the biggest thing, they are making these things by the THOUSANDS. Ka Bar is an old, well established company who probably owns all of their equipment outright and does their heat treat in house, most likely. All of these things lower costs considerably.

Now, you take me, a lone guy with a dream to offer a better production knife. These are not collector knives and I do also offer a lifetime warranty. All of my blades are precision flat ground before being bevel ground on a Berger BG2 grinder. I select what I feel will be the best steel for the intended application of each knife model. Right now those steels are CPM-3V and Elmax, which I just purchased a few hundred pounds of. Everyone is right, the stuff isn't cheap but the performance is far superior. I'm not saying that 1095 doesn't work or even that it's a bad steel. It's a fine knife steel. But going from a properly heat treated powder metal back to 1095, you have to adjust your performance expectations a good bit. For heat treat I rely on Peter's Heat Treat, who is right here in my home state of Pennsylvania. My handles are considerably more expensive, being CNC machined Micarta rather than Poly but I much prefer the feel of micarta. We are even just about finished developing a handle fastener that will allow the user to adjust or remove the handles without any specialized wrenches or tools. This new fastener will be on all production SURVIVE! knife models. lastly, all of the blades are stonewashed finished and have handles hand matched to each blade, for a perfect fit.

So is it really worth the extra money to have a 3V blade? That depends on the person, their expectations of the knife and ultimately who they want to support. To the user who appreciates a well made production knife, I believe it is.

Let me sign off by saying that I think KaBar is a great company and their knives represent a good value for the money. And as many have pointed out, if one does break, they are cheap enough to just go buy another. Me on the other hand? I hope you pick up one of my knives and use it until you've resharpened it for so many years that it's little more than a nub left for a blade.

EDC-4 Side view.jpg EDC-4 Spine view.jpg
 
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Whats so great about CPM3V? Sounds like stainless. 1095CroVan with Kabars super-secret heat treat is the most relaiable steel I've ever seen in outdoor knives. I wont use anything else anymore
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CPM 3V is a far superior blade steel then any of the 10XX steels,

...but that performance comes at a high cost both in material and production.



Statements like the one above make it clear this is the wrong Forum for this question.



There is plenty of room in the knife world for both the knives Ka-Bar makes and more expensive knives made with some of these high dollar steels.


Talk of "super-secret HT" and "most reliable steel" are best taken with a grain of salt,

..In many ways, you get what you pay for; with the Becker Line we get plenty.
 
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Cost: the price paid to acquire, produce, accomplish, or maintain anything
Value: relative worth, merit, or importance
Opportunity cost: the money or other benefits lost when pursuing a particular course of action instead of a mutually-exclusive alternative

You pays your money and you takes your choice.
 
Honestly, if I had the money, I would buy that "edc-4" in a heart beat. BUT! That would be my first knife that's "better" than 1095CV, being as the only knives I've owned to date not made of cheap stainless steels are Beckers, so I would be skeptical, but if it is as good as the designer says, and they will stand behind their product, it will have more than enough chances to prove that it is made with a, and I use this term lightly as I don't believe there is a such thing, "true super steel".

All that being said, no steel, heat treat, blade geometry, or combination of any of those are better at everything than another.
 
I have knives made of both 3v and 1095, both from excellent makers. Both perform well, but the 3v does hold an edge very noticeably better and longer. However it is not a deal killer, either will do the job fine if you don't mind resharpening more often on the 1095. The most important factor is that the design of the knife should fit what you want to do with it; if this is the case than any quality knife from a reputable manufacturer or maker will work well for you.
 
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I have knives made of both 3v and 1095, both from excellent makers. Both perform well, but the 3v does hold an edge very noticeably better and longer. However it is not a deal killer, either will do the job fine if you don't mind resharpening more often on the 1095. The most important factor is that the design of the knife should fit what you want to do with it; if this is the case than any quality knife from a reputable manufacturer or maker will work well for you.

Would you say twice as long? 30% more time between sharpenings?
 
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