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Is it possible to convert a bench grinder to a buffing machine?
- Thread starter Steinmann
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2010
- Messages
- 3,911
It's very simple. Buy a buffing wheel of the same shaft size as the grinder. Remove the hood from the side of the grinder you want to put the buffing wheel on. Unscrew the lug that holds the grinding wheel in place. Remove the grinding wheel. Assemble and install the buffing wheel. Tighten the lug down to hold the wheel in place. Voila... you're done.
I did it about a year ago on my Craftsman 6" bench grinder. Works fine, on the very rare occasion that I use it as a buffer.
I did it about a year ago on my Craftsman 6" bench grinder. Works fine, on the very rare occasion that I use it as a buffer.
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2012
- Messages
- 175
Works OK but be Aware of those Soft buff disks...Grabbed my Opinel and threw it 15 feet behind me where it Stuck in the wall. An eye Opener for sure!!!
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2009
- Messages
- 570
There are basically 2 ways of doing it.
As Trippyr says, one way (the cheapest) is to remove the guards, run a suitably-sized drill (usually 1/2", but maybe something else-it depends on the grinder spindle) through the centre of the buffing wheel and mount it instead of the stone. Sometimes you'll find the washers on your grinder are stepped and will not accommodate the thickness needed for a buffing wheel. Large diameter flat washers of the right ID will usually fix this.
The other way is to buy pigtail adapters to screw onto the spindle; you'll need to make sure you get the correct theads. Bear in mind that one end has a left-handed thread.
The first method makes it a pain to change mops, but keeps the loads in close to the bearings. The second method makes changing mops easy, but gives a lot of overhang. Neither is ideal. I went the first route myself, since I'd not be particularly comfortable adding pigtails and overhang to a cheap grinder, built down to a price, with already-marginal bearings. If I used a buffer much, I'd spend the money on something designed for the job.
As Trippyr says, one way (the cheapest) is to remove the guards, run a suitably-sized drill (usually 1/2", but maybe something else-it depends on the grinder spindle) through the centre of the buffing wheel and mount it instead of the stone. Sometimes you'll find the washers on your grinder are stepped and will not accommodate the thickness needed for a buffing wheel. Large diameter flat washers of the right ID will usually fix this.
The other way is to buy pigtail adapters to screw onto the spindle; you'll need to make sure you get the correct theads. Bear in mind that one end has a left-handed thread.
The first method makes it a pain to change mops, but keeps the loads in close to the bearings. The second method makes changing mops easy, but gives a lot of overhang. Neither is ideal. I went the first route myself, since I'd not be particularly comfortable adding pigtails and overhang to a cheap grinder, built down to a price, with already-marginal bearings. If I used a buffer much, I'd spend the money on something designed for the job.
Somebody gave me a herkin one horse grinder years ago, now that I have belt sanders around it never gets used- I don't want to just put buffing wheels on it because the body of the motor is so bulky.
Thanks for the reminder about the tapered spindles, we used to use those for silver work. That would give a little room to work around the buffer.
Thanks for the reminder about the tapered spindles, we used to use those for silver work. That would give a little room to work around the buffer.