IS silicone spray lubricant suitable for knives and flashlights?

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gazaati

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Hi
IS silicone spray lubricant suitable for knives and flashlights?

I love this stuff because it does not harm rubber and engines. Is it suitable to be the main lube for knives and the o rings on flashlights?

Is it different than the gel type found in tubes?

Thanks
 
NO, do not use silicone spray for knives or flashlights,

Not all "rubber" is compatable with the solvents used in such products.
 
unless you use PURE silicone spray (stuff that's used primarily in the airsoft industry for internal parts)

But otherwise, most silicone spray has petroleum distillates so that's a nono.
 
so then what oils/lubes what WOULD you recommend for knives? Both for pivot points as well as oils to keep blades in good shape?
 
lazerboy2000 said:
so then what oils/lubes what WOULD you recommend for knives? Both for pivot points as well as oils to keep blades in good shape?
Click to expand...

Oh, there are several and everyone seems to have their favorite. :)

FP-10, Tuf-Glide, Rem Oil, CLP BreakFree, mineral oil - especially if the blade will be used for food prep, and others.

(I personally think FP-10 is the best.)
 
(FP-10, Tuf-Glide, Rem Oil, CLP BreakFree)

Can one use those on O ring in flashlights?

I ask because I read at candle power that silicone is recommended for o rings and if it is safe on o rings than it must be safe for knives.

thanks
 
Oils on knife pivots aren't a good idea, as fluff and grit is attracted and turns into a nice grinding paste which over time and use will remove metal.

I use Jigaloo http://www.jigaloo.com/ It is fine for knives, flashlight O-Rings, and also for spraying on the tracks of UPVC sliding windows.

I also like Tri-Flow, but not on knives or flashlights.

Gun oils are fine on guns, because the oil is washed out after each shooting session and replaced. No good for knife pivots though.
 
The silicone lubricants that are safe for flashlights are generally oils or greases; note they are not spray-on products.

I use Militec and Benchmade Blulube for my knives (I let my knives "drain" for an hour or two after application under a lamp that makes the knives warm to the touch) at the moment.

As for my flashlights (have you seen that new BITZ light, got one and it is nice), I use either dielectric grease, a Krytox grease, or that PTFE lube from Radio Shack.

All of my lights have black o-rings, though, which are usually some butyl rubber derivative. The orange rings are silicone derivatives and would need a different lube, most likely.

I think I could use a Krytox oil on my knives, but the cost of having two lubricants around really isn't excessive. Radio Shack lube is less than $10 and the Blulube can be had for less than $10. Please note that a small container of the these two examples will last years.
 
I have Dow nonconductive grease which will not harm gasket materials.I used to have some pure silicone oil but don't know where to find it now .
 
"Jig-a-loo" - "It contains silicone, 30-60% methylene chloride and 10-30% perchloroethylene."

Well, if you want to breath it, go for it. Personally, I avoid aerosol lubricants.

Note that silicone isn't all that great of a dynamic lubricant. Expect to clean and re-apply often, with potential for faster wear, since silicone isn't intended for high-pressure applications. For a little used knife, the rust resistance could be of value.

What is the reason you want to put the FP-10 on the blade? Rust prevention? It would make a better pivot lube and the Jig stuff would probably be better for rust prevention.
 
I figured use fp-10 on the blade since Andrew Taylor said not to use oil in the pivots since it will gather dirt. So just using the jig-a-loo on both pivot and blade would work for both lube and rust prevention?
 
The gathering dirt problem is highly dependent upon enviroment.

When I worked in a rather nasty dusty enviroment, I had to clean my work knife every couple of days no matter the lube used. Sometimes daily cleaning was needed - at which times I would use Mobil 1 car oil - relatively cheap compared to Militec and such.

For pocket carry, as most actually do, dirt accumulation is over-rated IMO. I may clean and lube my daily carry knives every couple of months (I do blow out lint accumulation, though, every so often, with lung pressure - i.e. a fancy compressed air is nice, but is a luxury). Also note I have multiple knives in my daily carry rotation.

Always look at your knife daily, a quick examination when getting ready for the day is sufficient to see if a cleaning/lube is due when you get the chance later. Also, feeling how the knife operates can tell you when a cleaning/lube is needed - same goes with twisted flash lights (think ARC LS twisty, Aeon, etc).

The worst dirt accumulater I've run into was one of the wax lubes. That stuff was okay for a quick wiping of external surfaces to prevent rust, but in the knife's works (lock, pivot, etc.) that stuff plain sucked. (Yes, I am still P.O.'ed).

The biggest issue I see with lubing things is doing it too often with too much. I clean with my lube usually and it doesn't take much. A few drops, let drain a bit, swab with a Q-Tip to get any dirt that didn't go out with the oil, and let sit and drain till no more comes out. The residual surface coating layer of oil is sufficient for lubrication.

Never used Jig-a-loo, but the descriptions I found makes me think various spray silicones I have used for a corrosion protection layer on metal - kinda dries waxy slick? If so, I can easily envision better lubricants, but if that is all you have, it is better than nothing. Just keep an eye on obvious wear of the liners/lock/pivot surfaces. For light use, I suspect you'll never see any appreciative wear.
 
lazerboy2000 said:
I figured use fp-10 on the blade since Andrew Taylor said not to use oil in the pivots since it will gather dirt. So just using the jig-a-loo on both pivot and blade would work for both lube and rust prevention?
Click to expand...

I'd recommend using FP-10 on the blade and in the pivots.
Just a drop in the pivots, and wipe off the excess with a lint-free cloth.

After it dries, the pivot will still be lubricated.
FP-10 is not a "wet" lube.
It lubricates when it dries.
The liquid in it is just a delivery system.

For the blade I also recommend Tuf-Cloth or, even better, Marine Tuf-Cloth.
But FP-10 works too. It's just better as a lube than as an anti-corrosive.
In my experience it's the best pivot lube available.
 
lazerboy2000 said:
I figured use fp-10 on the blade since Andrew Taylor said not to use oil in the pivots since it will gather dirt. So just using the jig-a-loo on both pivot and blade would work for both lube and rust prevention?
Click to expand...


Yes to both. Jigaloo will lubricate the pivot and rust prevent the blade. The Jigaloo on the pivot will probably last 3 to 6 months, but spray the blade every couple of weeks or after hard use.

I use my George Tichbourne folder pretty well daily. I lubricated the pivot last August and it is still smooth and dust free. The blade is 440C stainless, so it doesn't need any treatment.

Try Jigaloo, it is not expensive, but is extremely versatile. Don't spray it on cheap, thin plastic though as it can melt it.
 
Andrew Taylor said:
Yes to both. Jigaloo will lubricate the pivot and rust prevent the blade. The Jigaloo on the pivot will probably last 3 to 6 months, but spray the blade every couple of weeks or after hard use.

I use my George Tichbourne folder pretty well daily. I lubricated the pivot last August and it is still smooth and dust free. The blade is 440C stainless, so it doesn't need any treatment.

Try Jigaloo, it is not expensive, but is extremely versatile. Don't spray it on cheap, thin plastic though as it can melt it.
Click to expand...

Looking for something new and possibly better, I checked the Jigaloo website.
I found this:



If swallowed. Call a doctor immediately. Do NOT induce vomiting without instruction from medical personnel.
If sprayed in eyes. Immediately flush area thoroughly with water, remove any contact lenses and hold your eyelids open while continuing to flush eyes for about 15 minutes.
If sprayed on skin. Rinse the area well with water.
If inhaled. Go outside in the fresh air immediately.

CAUTION
Contains: methylene chloride, perchloroethylene, isobutane,
and propane.
Contents and fumes may catch fire. Container may explode if heated. May irritate eyes and skin
Keep away from flames, pilot lights, and sparks, including electric motors. Use only in a well-ventilated area. Do not swallow or get in eyes or on skin. Do not breathe fumes. Do not puncture or incinerate container. Do not store at temperatures above 120°F. Keep out of reach of children.
Some plastics and painted surfaces may react. Please check by testing a small area on the surface before spraying the entire object.
WARNING
This product contains chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer.

____________________________________________________________________________

This seems like a heckuva set of warnings.

I guess the stuff must be pretty good!. ;)
 
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