is there a system to sharpen tojiro 9 to 12 degrees or is it just benchstone?

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Bababuka

Joined
Jun 3, 2016
Messages
3
Hi all! My first post here.
I searched but couldnt find a good answer to this.
I have some tojiro DP knifes that need to be sharpened. I also have some spideco and moor and kabar and cold steel etc :) that i need to start maintaining.
I want to get a KME system because i like the fact that you can adapt any stone if you want to it as opposed to Wikked that uses proprietary stones.
However, KME claims minimum 17 degrees and i read somewhere in the forum that if you invert the rod holder then you can go a bit lower.
Question: can i sharpen my tojiro on KME when it calls for 9 to 12 degrees or do i have to learn the art of benchtop stone?

thanks!
 
Since you're talking about powered sharpening, I'd like to mention paper wheels. A low speed grinder and a set of wheels will allow you to sharpen anything quickly and to whatever angle you'd like since all you need to do with keep the blade flat and placed on the correct spot on the wheels. I sharpen my Shun kitchen knives at 10 degrees per side.

I like this setup since there are no fixed angle positions to worry about and the learning curve is nowhere as steep as some people would assume.
 
dsmegst: KME is not a powered system.

Bababuka: if you can invest the time to learn... those knives would greatly benefit being freehand sharpened. Just takes a bit of practice.
 
Edge pro apex goes to 10 , wicked edge can be modified to go really low . I would email Josh at razor edge knives . He made a video where he modded his wicked edge to go very very low I believe it was 6 or 7 dps .

If you don't want to spend the coin send the knife to one of our guys here , Jason B. Does all the chef knives for CKTG and another company , Josh at razor edge can hit it on the wicked edge .

After they sharpen it just buy a finishing stone and keep it touched up .
 
Hey, thank you guys for quick replies!

I dont mind the grinder and am using it on my tools and stuff but i was thinking that simply for a reason of style i should treat my knifes to some whetstone.
This whole knife thing is slowly turning into a hobby so i dont mind going the hard way.

So i was looking around for some stones and im thinking about these options:
1. Beston 500; Bester 1200; Suehiro Rika 5000 Atoma 140 and 1200

2. Shapton Glass stones

3. DMT diamond

4. Arkansas stones

What do you think and maybe im missing something?
 
Bababuka said:
I dont mind the grinder and am using it on my tools and stuff but i was thinking that simply for a reason of style i should treat my knifes to some whetstone.
This whole knife thing is slowly turning into a hobby so i dont mind going the hard way.
Click to expand...

:) Well, after going through 4 different types of systems, I ended up with my paper wheels and pretty much everything else stays in their boxes now. 10 minutes of work on the entire knife block and getting results similar to hours of work on stones was a revelation.
 
start cheap bro.

what if you dont like it?

you can buy a king stone 1k,6k together for about 35 bucks.

if your feeling lucky, go with the shapton glass 500,2000, 16000 with the field stone holder, 10x the cost though, but they dish less, cut fast, splash and go, wear slow, very hard, store very nicely.

damn. I should sell all my stuff and by shaptons :P


unfourtanly the king stones are just too cheap to pass up and do a great job.\

you should serious just get the king stones.
 
I never consider it a good idea to let beginners use power tools, a quick way to ruin good knives.

I would recommend the Atoma 140 and the Shapton Glass 500, and if budget allows the Shapton Glass 2000. If not then following the 500 with a strop works very well.
 
Jason B. said:
I never consider it a good idea to let beginners use power tools, a quick way to ruin good knives.

I would recommend the Atoma 140 and the Shapton Glass 500, and if budget allows the Shapton Glass 2000. If not then following the 500 with a strop works very well.
Click to expand...

Use the atoma for lapping starting off , low grit diamonds can tear a blade up if you don't know what your doing .

With the stones op is looking at you don't" need" a 1200 grit diamond and 1200water stones .Personally a diamond is good to have as a coarser stone but after coarse grits or moving to water stones I'd stick with water stones or diamonds but not go say 1200k diamond to 1200 Waterstone .

Personally OP I love bester and or beston (same stone ).
They cut like shapton glass stones but they aren't as hard so they are a little more forgiving . They actually feel a lot like the pro shaptons .

Whatever Waterstone you get buy a set as in all Shapton pro or all Shapton glass . Or all bestons or bester , some stones work well with the bester for finishing but that's another thread .
 
I'll say this too. I've spent a lot of cash on Waterstones. Some are good some not so much knowing what stones to use on what steels and getting frustrated when your stone isn't performing well on a steel etc.

I've got a few knives Waterstone don't sharpen that we'll . I also have the entire line up of dmt dias harps . While certain knives go with certain Waterstone all do well on diamonds .

I have a 8,000 grit dmt and while it won't get you that pretty finish of an 8k Waterstone it will give you a edge that will hang with any Waterstone I've used. It's 3 years old IIRC and just now getting where it is almost a mirror polish but even from day 1 when the Polish it gave was horrible it still gave an amazing edge.
 
Bababuka said:
Hey, thank you guys for quick replies!

I dont mind the grinder and am using it on my tools and stuff but i was thinking that simply for a reason of style i should treat my knifes to some whetstone.
This whole knife thing is slowly turning into a hobby so i dont mind going the hard way.

So i was looking around for some stones and im thinking about these options:
1. Beston 500; Bester 1200; Suehiro Rika 5000 Atoma 140 and 1200

2. Shapton Glass stones

3. DMT diamond

4. Arkansas stones

What do you think and maybe im missing something?
Click to expand...

Of your choices, I would skip the Arkansas stones for use with your Tojiro DPs. VG-10 at 60 HRC.

Shaptons (glass or Pro) are fine for splash and go, the Beston/Bester/Suehiro for more traditional soakers that will generate some mud. You'll need a flattening plate like the Atoma 140 with either set.
 
Or some drywall screen on a flat piece of glass.

I only mentioned the Atoma because he had it in his post.

Two approaches to buying sharpening supplies:

#1 - Go cheap, because in case you don't get into it, you aren't out so much money.
#2 - Buy nice, because if you DO get into it, you won't have wasted money on starter gear that you outgrow.

No way to really know which is the better approach unless you can predict your own future. I started out cheap but ended up buying nicer stuff as I went along.

Certainly not a bad suggestion to get a 2-sided stone to learn on, though.
 
Bababuka said:
Hi all! My first post here.
I searched but couldnt find a good answer to this.
I have some tojiro DP knifes that need to be sharpened. I also have some spideco and moor and kabar and cold steel etc :) that i need to start maintaining.
I want to get a KME system because i like the fact that you can adapt any stone if you want to it as opposed to Wikked that uses proprietary stones.
However, KME claims minimum 17 degrees and i read somewhere in the forum that if you invert the rod holder then you can go a bit lower.
Question: can i sharpen my tojiro on KME when it calls for 9 to 12 degrees or do i have to learn the art of benchtop stone?

thanks!
Click to expand...

The steel will never hold an edge that low. The sweet spot on the DP is around 17 for durability and still have a good sharp edge. A bit higher for the thinner DP offerings like the petty. The Edge Pro is probably your best bet to start out.

Going cheap is just spending your money twice when cheap doesn't work.
 
I've had good experience with kings and vg10 . 1k/6k combo stone can be had cheap on amazon. I have 800, 1k,4k,6k kings and I prefer the 800 to the 1k and the 6k to the 4k but that's just me . The scratch patterns between the 800 and 1k are not that noticeable sane with 4k and 6k the 6k just gives a little more polish to the blade .
 
For Kings I like the 800 and 4k. The 1200 also nice to have as a good stopping point for a utility slicer - its notably finer than the 1k and the stone that started me off with waterstones.
 
HeavyHanded said:
For Kings I like the 800 and 4k. The 1200 also nice to have as a good stopping point for a utility slicer - its notably finer than the 1k and the stone that started me off with waterstones.
Click to expand...

Never tried the 1.2 k would you say their is as much difference in the 1k and 1200k as the 800 and 1k if that makes sense?
 
Spartan00 said:
Never tried the 1.2 k would you say their is as much difference in the 1k and 1200k as the 800 and 1k if that makes sense?
Click to expand...

I'd say more of a difference. If the 1200 came with a 2k label you wouldn't think twice about how accurate the numbers were.
 
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