Is there such a thing as a good mini mill?

T

Travis Fry

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Jun 11, 2010
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I'm always looking for a mill, and a mini would suffice for everything I need. From what I've read, however, most of the minis are kinda crappy. The ones that aren't are pretty expensive, enough so that it isn't worth not saving for something bigger. I don't know much about mills other than what I've read, so I don't really have a reference point to judge them by. Anybody have a mini that they're happy with that is reasonably priced?
 
Travis Fry said:
I'm always looking for a mill, and a mini would suffice for everything I need. From what I've read, however, most of the minis are kinda crappy. The ones that aren't are pretty expensive, enough so that it isn't worth not saving for something bigger. I don't know much about mills other than what I've read, so I don't really have a reference point to judge them by. Anybody have a mini that they're happy with that is reasonably priced?
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I have a WMD-30LV, which is kind of like the 30 shown here. I am currently using it as my drill press and my mill.

In addition to knifemaking, I have used it to make several other things, mostly out of aluminum and some steel.

I don't think I would want anything smaller - this is about the minimum size for me to be able to comfortably mill anything bigger than a slot for a guard.

I'll be interested to hear what others have to say.
 
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A friend has been nice enough to let me use his.

It's OK for plastic and handle material, but steel is pushing it.

It simply does not have the rigidity, mass and power needed.
 
Simple answer yes. (I am talking about a round column rong-fu type import.)
Is it a zillion light year above doing the stuff by hand, yes. (the stuff you actually CAN do by hand of course).
Has it become an essential tool in my shop, yes.
Is it a Bridgeport, no.
 
For the sake of argument, what are you calling a "mini" mill? Are you specifically referring to those $500 to $700, 120(ish) pound mills from HF, LittleMachineShop, Grizzly and the like?

Or are you grouping everything short of a 1,000 pound vertical knee mill in this category?
 
I have used a MiniMill for years and made hundreds of custom parts in Steel, aluminum, brass, nickel silver etc. I have the Sieg X2, but would recommend the Sieg X3. It is larger and more rigid.

Here is a good rule when considering a mill. Buy the biggest one you can afford and have the ability to move. It that is a mini mill then so be it.

I make custom parts for airguns with it like this

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Custom Shoulder stock for a Mac1 LD

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On this the Trigger guard and AR15 grip adapter as well as the shoulder piece were made on a Sieg x2 mini mill.

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For the sake of argument, let's define "mini" as anything benchtop in the $500-$1200 range. I'll ultimately buy something like this and want to get the best value for my money. I won't likely use it for anything non-knife related, so shop jigs, guard slots, nail nicks, and liner relief are pretty much it.
 
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I have a grizzly Mini Mill and I love it. It will do alot more then I thought it would and will do almoost anything a knife maker would need it. Don Hannson has told me he uses a Sherline mill for all his knifemaking so it is possible. That said I bought a rong fu type mill a year ago but will not get rid of my mini mill for nothing. It comes done to a couple thing one is the space you have the other is cost tho you can find the rong fu types used for the price of a new mini mill.
 
I have barely played with mine yet, but my Grizzly G0704 is at what I reckon is the upper limit of what you're talking about and I'm happy so far with it. It's done everything I've wanted it to (except it broke a stinking bit the other night :( ) so far. At nearly 300 pounds, with a 26" table it isn't exactly a table top model IMHO...but not far off and it does come with it's own, albeit crap sheet metal, stand.
 
I have the same mill as Watercrawl, but painted a different color. I'd strongly recommend it. It's a Weiss design and has got lots of excellent features: square column, variable speed, huge table, tapered gibs etc. With a good collet holder and a keyless chuck added its a great little machine.

I can slot 6-4 titanium, face mill titanium, saw slots and much more.
 
Travis - get the Little Machine Shop version of the high torque mini mill. Make sure you get the motor with the belt drive rather than the gears. This is what I have. There is more play in the table than you would want if you are a serious machinist. But for milling slots, flattening, getting good and true angles that don't wander, etc. It is great. Just don't try to put a fuller into a sword with it.
my two cents.
kc
 
watercrawl said:
For the sake of argument, what are you calling a "mini" mill? Are you specifically referring to those $500 to $700, 120(ish) pound mills from HF, LittleMachineShop, Grizzly and the like?

Or are you grouping everything short of a 1,000 pound vertical knee mill in this category?
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It is kinda funny actually, "mini mill" is sort of a loosely defined term. I just got a new mini mill, but it is probably a little different than what most folks would have in mind...
 
I've got the same machine Patrice provided the link to but its green, all my folder frames are
milled on it. No problem at all, usually use 3/8" or under cutters- have used up to 3/4". Definitley
not a Bridgeport but what are you going to use the mill for? Also don't think this would exactly
be classed as a mini mill.
Ken.
 
Mini mills work great, as long as you aren't trying to use them for work that should be done on a full sized machine.
Taig makes a very good one.
 
My up graded my mini mill to the belt drive as soon as i got it along with a few other mods. It will do the job if space is limiting. If you have not run a mill before a would recomend spending some time with someone that can show you how to run it correctly.
kevin -the professor said:
Travis - get the Little Machine Shop version of the high torque mini mill. Make sure you get the motor with the belt drive rather than the gears. This is what I have. There is more play in the table than you would want if you are a serious machinist. But for milling slots, flattening, getting good and true angles that don't wander, etc. It is great. Just don't try to put a fuller into a sword with it.
my two cents.
kc
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