Is this an appropriate power supply for anodizing titanium

razorburn

razorburn

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Hi, I am thinking of getting one of those imported power supply.More specifically a 0 - 120V with 0 - 3 Amps.All digitally adjusted.

Screenshot_20200402-141513_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
What color are you looking for? On anodizing color table pictures I see one with the color ranging up to a max of ~11 nine volt batteries, ~96 volts which is ~5.5 Amps DC.

With some homework you could use your meter to re-purpose old stuff around the house: rechargeable batts (eg. 18650 form factor in portable computers are sometimes useful & rechargeable UPS batts), computer power supplies, AC Adapters aka wall warts, etc.

I have old deep cell wheelchair batts (AGM 12V, 60AH, 1100A HCA) for storage from solar, to drive my chargers / small shortwave / LEDs), which take external 12 volt inputs. Go through your pile of recycle batts with a meter and be surprised.

Ham radio operators use external power for various reasons, and belt grinder motors also benefit from adjustable power supplies. At the bay, I immediately saw a 240VAC adjustable 100 Volt 5 Amp lab unit for 300 bucks new; 110VAC 0 to 30v and 0 to 5Amps for 60 bucks.
 
I also looking to do some aluminium anodizing.When I machine small parts with my lathe for hobby purposes, where sending out tiny parts is cost prohibitive.

I saw some people using RIT dyes and thought it might be interesting to give it a short and experiment.Learn a few things tinkering
 
scottc3 said:
QUESTION - How do I anodize titanium blues through gold-
ANSWER - Pictures on search term <anodizing color table> reports ~25.5 to ~62.5 Volts.(scroll down a ways to pic)
Using amperage available from standard alkaline 9V batteries, ~550mA, means you need a max of ~3.8 Amps. You can surly find some way to add 0.8A to get all gold colors you want.
https://knifeworkchey.blogspot.com/
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I would guess that you've divided 62.5 volts by 9 to get about 7 and multiplied 550mA times the 7 to get about 3.8 Amps. But serial connections don't work that way! Those 9V batteries are connected in serial! The most needed current will be the 550ma of one battery. To get 3.8 Amps out of 9 batteries they'd all have to be in parallel, and then you'd only get 9V.

According to the link above, you only need 550mA.
 
Yes,I got the power supply last week.Haven't started anodizing as I'm still looking for the titanium wire bought a while ago but I do have a bunch of Chinese titanium screws off AliX.

Just the other day I checked out the voltage and amp output with a digital multimeter.It all checked out.

Im sorry that I can't help but doing some research found two things knifemakers are super secretive about their methods and some labcoats mentioned using Oxalic Acid.I have yet to get the whink I need as they do not deliver.
 
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razorburn said:
Yes,I got the power supply last week.Haven't started anodizing as I'm still looking for the titanium wire bought a while ago but I do have a bunch of Chinese titanium screws off AliX.

Just the other day I checked out the voltage and amp output with a digital multimeter.It all checked out.

Im sorry that I can't help but doing some research found two things knifemakers are super secretive about their methods and some labcoats mentioned using Oxalic Acid.I have yet to get the whink I need as they do not deliver.
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I have used just plain old vinegar to anodize Ti and it came out just fine. You really just need a current carrying solution. I’ve seen people use water and TSP and I have also used a 100:1 solution of water and sulphuric acid. It you have to power supply and some cheap Ti, I would recommend that you experiment to see what works for you.

I will point out that the amperage you use will effect your finish. Lower amperage take longer to anodize and will give a slightly darker (grayer) finish. Not a big deal if you are only doing one part, but sucks when you are doing a set of handle slabs.
 
My results so far.I am going to try other different solutions and voltages.

mYrpiPR.jpg
 
That’s a good blue. Keep in mind that different alloys will anodize differently. I know some makers will use a different alloy for the hardware and handles. I think one of the Italian manufacturers used different alloys for the show side and lock side.
 
razorburn said:
No etching prior to anodizing.What would be the preferred etchant.
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I only had success with anodizing (without etching) in the high voltages, when the parts still had the old surface from the factory. I don`t know why. It would be interesting to know, if it is the same case with your parts.
I don´t have experience with etching. But, I know that a lot of people use whink, multi-etch (USA, Canada) or titan-etch (Europe). Whink is cheap and uncomplicated, but it mats the surface. Multi-etch and titan-etch are similar. They don´t mat the surface as much, but are more expensive and complicated.
 
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