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- Sep 3, 2014
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I'll take a look, I haven't cleaned it yet to ID it.What is the axe on the top left with the painted haft?
I'll take a look, I haven't cleaned it yet to ID it.What is the axe on the top left with the painted haft?
Anyone need a machinist surface plate? I have 3...
The one pictured is 20"x13"x3". But, it weighs 80-100lb...What sizes. I have a small one but might be interested in another.
I received your last package fine. Thanks for the extras.
The one pictured is 20"x13"x3". But, it weighs 80-100lb...
The one pictured is 20"x13"x3". But, it weighs 80-100lb...
I'll take a look, I haven't cleaned it yet to ID it.
The one pictured is 20"x13"x3". But, it weighs 80-100lb...
EVERYONE needs something like that,what a beautiful tool.Anyone need a machinist surface plate? I have 3...
I know that they are cast and made to be precise and naturally hard, but I don't know anything about their usefulness for forging. Sometimes things can be too hard. I tell people that a good piece of RR track or better yet a big old sledge head upturned are super alternatives for an anvil on a budget.EVERYONE needs something like that,what a beautiful tool.
You can restore the sole of an old plane with it,by spray-adhering asst. abrasive paper to the largest face;sharpen all sorts of plane irons and spokeshaves and chisels and slicks...
And stood up on end in a shallow recess in a stump it'd make a beautiful anvil,with edges dressed and radiused correctly,naturally...
A very,Very valuable piece of steel in so many respects.
I know that they are cast and made to be precise and naturally hard, but I don't know anything about their usefulness for forging. Sometimes things can be too hard. I tell people that a good piece of RR track or better yet a big old sledge head upturned are super alternatives for an anvil on a budget.
Todays gathering
I've seem track sections cut with a point on one end to mimic a horn, but not even rounded. Still a 90 degree edge even on the part cut to a point. What will this do? There is still no rounded edge. An attempt by someone that does not understand the tool.You're Very much correct on both counts.Indeed,such plate would be a good choice only for Very careful,precise forging,no allowance for any "yahoo-ism" at all.
And absolutely,a large forging such as a RR rail or a sledge is ideal.
A quick note to add in regards to RR rail:Common mistake is to try shaping it in the form of a conventional,London-pattern anvil.
In actuality it's Vastly more effective used on end.
Anvil returns the energy of the hammer-blow,and it's mass must be positioned in a direct line with it;whereas a anvil-like "face" of most RR anvils is a cantilievered overhang that does not transmit/refract that force.
As to the puny surface-area,one forges only what's directly under the hammer face,and anvil just a smidgen larger is about right for most if not all forging.
Miller'72,that,Sir,is quite an insane pile of tools!
Frankly i'm not sure if i envy you,or feel sorry for you for the time and energy that you'll be compelled to invest in this in the future......
(i love the hot-cut and some other forge tools...yes...i'm inclining to envy,i think,in spite of all common sense...
And What a cool prehistoric comealong!Love that
Miller, fun stuff there! The woodworking vises are handy, any brands on those?. One looks “Quick-release”.
Nice Registered! What’s on the French curve handle?
A quick note to add in regards to RR rail:Common mistake is to try shaping it in the form of a conventional,London-pattern anvil.
In actuality it's Vastly more effective used on end.
Miller, I'm prepared to suffer - heard somewhere it builds character