I've been working on a frame lock design!

Daniel Fairly Knives

Daniel Fairly Knives

Full Time Knifemaker
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Jan 9, 2011
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Here's where I'm at so far! I'm going for a few things... super heavy duty construction and a clean look.

Full sized handle, great sized blade, still fits in the pocket and carries well - heavy duty as can be yet fast and light for the size

Random details...

7.7" total length - 4.5" handle

tip up carry

.25" thick blade? I want input on this please.

Steel type - not sure yet, want input... S7, D2, 3V, Elmax, S30V or S35VN and more are being considered; lots of great options here

.155 mega thick Ti frames - I may do a later option with scales or insets

super heavy duty construction - multiple extra heavy standoffs, huge heat treated stop pin and pivot



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I love it. Overbuilt is key, and 0.25" is definitely robust. The beefiest folder I have is my Horton Tac-4 and the 0.190" CPM-D2 blade makes the other large folders I have look puny. For perspective, it's about the same length as a Spyderco Military and a ZT0200.

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I like overbuilt :) . S7 at your highest possible HRC, CPM-D2, or 3V will do this justice.
 
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:cool: sounds good!

That Horton folder is exceptional, great score! I think Jeremy and I must share a lot of the same influences.
 
Please add a flipper! It makes for awesome deployment, and a great guard.
 
trkJr said:
What gooey said!
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:cool:

duro said:
Please add a flipper! It makes for awesome deployment, and a great guard.
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I eventually want to make a flipper once I have a few more "standard" liner locks under my belt. I think they are great.

I plan on lapping the pivot along with a lot of other precision hand finishing, the action should be flipper smooth.

gooeytek said:
Just like you, he preaches the gospel of chisel.
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Chisels rule! :D These will be chisel of course.
 
Ok, i'm totally loving that a Horton TAC4 was posted here Awesome, I need to get mine up here, but I'm lazy. Now to the important stuff:

1. No less than .25" what happened to .310" Sir?
2. Loving the full handle
3. Full Ti, Hell yeah (Gents gonna need to wear a belt with this pant sagger)
4. I vote D2, S7, S30V
5. Now,,,the important question, Chisel grind or V? I love the Chisel. Team Chisel.

Very cool you are taking suggestions Daniel, regardless this is gonna be beyond radical = Gnarly blade Fo Sho!


:jerkit: , :eek: , :D My reatction when this blade actually comes out for sale. Lol.
 
Daniel Fairly Knives said:
Random details...

7.7" total length - 4.5" handle

tip up carry

.25" thick blade? I want input on this please.

Steel type - not sure yet, want input... S7, D2, 3V, Elmax, S30V or S35VN and more are being considered; lots of great options here

.155 mega thick Ti frames - I may do a later option with scales or insets

super heavy duty construction - multiple extra heavy standoffs, huge heat treated stop pin and pivot
Click to expand...

.25" thick. I like it.
I prefer S7 or D2.
.155 mega thick frames. Sounds good.
Super heavy duty construction. I'm in.
 
SID-SWITCH-BLADE said:
Ok, i'm totally loving that a Horton TAC4 was posted here Awesome, I need to get mine up here, but I'm lazy. Now to the important stuff:

1. No less than .25" what happened to .310" Sir? I plan on all sorts of thicknesses, blade shapes, steels and all that stuff eventually, my first run of 10 or so will probably all be the same as I want to nail the process down. .315" thick is my personal favorite for a blade and I want to do a 1/8" model as well, I know I want both.
2. Loving the full handle right on!
3. Full Ti, Hell yeah (Gents gonna need to wear a belt with this pant sagger) oh yeah! Maybe insets or thin additional scales later too
4. I vote D2, S7, S30V sounds good
5. Now,,,the important question, Chisel grind or V? I love the Chisel. Team Chisel. Chisel all the way!

Very cool you are taking suggestions Daniel, regardless this is gonna be beyond radical = Gnarly blade Fo Sho!
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Thanks!

Lycosa said:
I love that handle. Put a tanto blade in one for me.
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Thanks and I can do that! I should make a tanto/red G10 and call it the "Lycosa" model ! I want one. :D

Dan57 said:
Why such a thick blade? Thinner blades cut much better.
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Because I rule! :D

shaymanx said:
.25" thick. I like it.
I prefer S7 or D2.
.155 mega thick frames. Sounds good.
Super heavy duty construction. I'm in.
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Cool, cool... :cool:

elof_alv said:
Sure in for one! Maybe in 3V? :D
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Sounds good, I am a big fan of 3V. Right now it looks like I might lean to S7 but we will see. All will be great I know that. So many great steels out there.



Thanks for the feedback guys!

If I can pull it off I hope to do a small run of them here in the upcoming months. The materials cost a ton and I have a lot coming up bill wise... I may do a pre buy to secure the materials and give a discount in appreciation of the investment.
 
I like the specs, except for the length! I would dig it if it had a 4" sharpened edge!


-Xander
 
fast14riot said:
Sure they do, but I can't open a volkswagen like a bean can with my Skyline! :D


-Xander
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That's right!

I'm working on a video deal... testing at the local scrapyard! Sunroof anyone? :D

fast14riot said:
I like the specs, except for the length! I would dig it if it had a 4" sharpened edge!


-Xander
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I like the idea. It would need a 5" + handle with my design ideas, I want to keep it sleek and ergonomic. Less hardware can easily give you a longer blade but I don't want to do it that way. ...maybe though, this design is pure overkill.

I noticed blades with a lot of hardware (great for strength) either sit out far in a large handle (Strider) or have a ton of drop at the butt (Hinderer). I like the clean lines and great in the pocket feel of Chris Reeves Knives, Hinderer ergos without the big pocket outline and I also wanted the heavy duty Strider thing going on but without lots of stuff going on. This design will sit well in the pocket because of that and still be tough as can be.

Thanks very much for the feedback, if you guys want a bigger knife I will do that first. I'm deep into this folder thing and expect to have 3 sizes out eventually... to me this is a perfect EDC size, a bigger one is just cool (and useful too) and a smaller one is great as well, not too many people make a heavy duty smaller folder.
 
5+ inch handle is fine by me, I have pretty large paws anyways. Just for an idea, I can hide my skyline in my fist...

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I discovered something pretty cool on accident the other night sharpening my skyline, the thumb studs are th correct length to set the bevel for the edge! Just lay on the stone so the edge and stud are both touching and it is the same angle! I put one layer of e-tape over the studs so it didn't load up the stone with softer steel and it really helped me freehand by haveing a reference point for angle, just like my straight razors. I don't know if you can pull that off within reason on a thick blade, but for the thickness-height ratio of my knife it worked!

I think if you did a swedge on the forward half of the knife the stabbing resistance would go down without compromising strength. Hand lapping for flatness on the pivot is a good idea but I don't like it polished mirror smooth. You need a certain amount of "roughness" to hold oil anyways. I assume your going to use PB washers? Seems the PB and teflon washer combonation allows just a tiny amount of blade play. A thought on back spacers, stand off are great but as Kevin and I found out on a couple of RAT1's can cause all sorts of alignment issues with blade centering when disassembled and reassembled. I think if you did a G10 one for a portion of the back with stand off on the butt to allow debris removal would accomplish you rigidity goal, reduce cost and eliminate complications.

Just my two cents...

-Xander
 
Thick blades can cut well, it's just a matter of having the right blade geometry which I know Daniel has a good handle on. Jeremy Horton also understands how it works, here's some edge shots of the TAC-4:
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It really is as sweet as it looks. Bring on the beefiness DF!
 
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