Japanese Officer Sword

J

Jkonefal

Joined
Nov 23, 2008
Messages
13
My grandfather handed me a WW2 Jap officer sword today that my uncle had picked up on one the island battles, there are no markings on it but it's easily recognizable as a mass produced model, is there anyone that could provide some info on the sword?
 
Jkonefal said:
My grandfather handed me a WW2 Jap officer sword today that my uncle had picked up on one the island battles, there are no markings on it but it's easily recognizable as a mass produced model, is there anyone that could provide some info on the sword?
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Not without pictures. There's a LOT of variation.

http://www.geocities.com/alchemyst/nihonto.htm
This website it a good place to start. There's an entire section dedicated to Japanese military swords.

I suggest not trying to take it apart, or doing ANYTHING to it) until you know exactly what you're doing. Even production swords from WWII can be worth quite a bit.

Please post pictures. I'd love to see it.
 
Best I can figure at the moment it is a NCO Shin-Gunto sword

2vwbfw3.jpg


ojf7ur.jpg
 
Oh, and the markings on these types of swords are usually stamped on the tang beneath the handle.
 
HolyRoller said:
If you can safely remove the Tsuka from the blade, please do so and photograph/scan both sides of the Nakago.
Even if there's no markings, it's an important aspect.
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It's being difficult, I won't try to force it, is there a specialties shop where I could have it done?
 
Jkonefal said:
It's being difficult, I won't try to force it, is there a specialties shop where I could have it done?
Click to expand...

So you've yet to remove the hilt?
Then the statement: "Lol, there are no markings to be found" isn't yet true.

The grip should have one or two holes for tapered, bamboo pins(Mekugi).
These are set to as to only go in/out in one way. They will need to be removed using a small hammer and a punch small enough to knock out the Mekugi. If you do not see any, there's a good chance that they are hidden underneath the Ito(wrapping). DO NOT CUT, simple move the bands with your fingers. The holes(Mekugi-Ana) will be in the center-line of the grip and should be easy to spot.

Once removed, the Tsuka should still be held on tight. Japanese swords are made with a friction-fit, the Mekugi being really only to properly seat the Nakago into the Tsuka-core(though modern, mass-produced, cheaper, Japanese-style swords will have up to 3 Mekugi as the primary attachment, since a friction-fit requires time-consuming and difficult handwork).

There are tools for removing a Tsuka, but they're expensive and it can be done without them.
If possible, place the blade in a vise(WITH EITHER A PIECE OF THICK LEATHER OR SOFT WOOD ON EITHER SIDE, DO NOT LET THE BLADE CONTACT THE VISE). Lock the blade in about a foot or so from the Tsuba(guard).

From there, you can use another piece of soft wood, placed against the guard next to the Habaki(collar), and tap it with a light hammer. Do this to each side, going back and forth until the Tsuka is loosened enough to be pulled off.

Any markings made on the sword will be on the tang, currently hidden by the grip.
 
the close-up shot of the handle: that button near the tsuba releases the latch that keep the blade in the scabbard, right?
 
HolyRoller said:
So you've yet to remove the hilt?
Then the statement: "Lol, there are no markings to be found" isn't yet true.

The grip should have one or two holes for tapered, bamboo pins(Mekugi).
These are set to as to only go in/out in one way. They will need to be removed using a small hammer and a punch small enough to knock out the Mekugi. If you do not see any, there's a good chance that they are hidden underneath the Ito(wrapping). DO NOT CUT, simple move the bands with your fingers. The holes(Mekugi-Ana) will be in the center-line of the grip and should be easy to spot.

Once removed, the Tsuka should still be held on tight. Japanese swords are made with a friction-fit, the Mekugi being really only to properly seat the Nakago into the Tsuka-core(though modern, mass-produced, cheaper, Japanese-style swords will have up to 3 Mekugi as the primary attachment, since a friction-fit requires time-consuming and difficult handwork).

There are tools for removing a Tsuka, but they're expensive and it can be done without them.
If possible, place the blade in a vise(WITH EITHER A PIECE OF THICK LEATHER OR SOFT WOOD ON EITHER SIDE, DO NOT LET THE BLADE CONTACT THE VISE). Lock the blade in about a foot or so from the Tsuba(guard).

From there, you can use another piece of soft wood, placed against the guard next to the Habaki(collar), and tap it with a light hammer. Do this to each side, going back and forth until the Tsuka is loosened enough to be pulled off.

Any markings made on the sword will be on the tang, currently hidden by the grip.
Click to expand...

I would first remove the pin/s then with the sword held by the left hand just below the guard slap the top of your left wrist hard with your right hand. My WWII island sword only had one pin and I was able to remove the handle this way. If this doesn't work the resort to tapping as described above.

Once you have removed the handle "do not" clean the tang repeat do not clean the tang no matter what it looks like. In stead look closely for signatures and stampings. Their will most likely be a armory stamp near the guard this is on most of them. What ever marks you find you will need to consult an expert for ID. Again the tang is not meant to be polished and look like the blade so do not clean it....

Nice looking sword.
 
My first post. I don't know a BUNCH about Japanese swords. Have a couple in the collection. The sword pictured has a wrapped ray skin grip. All the NCO swords I've seen have a solid cast grip that mimics the wrapped handle. The blade does have the groove that the NCO swords typicly have. You mention it's mass produced, so likely has no temper line. This could be a very late war piece that used a officer's style wrapped handle with an NCO blade.

CW
 
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