Jewelry Saws

T

Taximanny

Joined
Jul 27, 2015
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Who uses them and for what?

Been thinking of getting one for threading bolsters..
So maybe one with a 2" throat for more stability.

For those that use them what blades seem to work best?

Thanks, Manny
 
I have no idea who makes any of the blades I have. I just buy the size(s) I need, most are no-name. To me blades are far less important than the frame. A bad frame will make you avoid using it, even if it should be the best tool for the job. I have literally used crap jewelers saw frames for over 20 years (not just knife work), but someone here suggested a Knew Concepts frame, and though its more than twice what I have ever paid, completely worth it.

https://www.riogrande.com/Product/original-knew-concepts-jewelers-5-saw-frame/110138
 
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I probably have a jeweler's saw in my hand 120 minutes a day. For sizing rings, a 2" throat is OK, for doing other cut out tasks like cutting guards out of sheet stock and slotting them, a larger throat is better.

I slot all guards with one and usually saw out the guard profile with it, too. They also are good for putting puns/rivets to length.

Put the blade in with the teeth facing the handle. You cut on the pull stroke.
Lubricate the blade with wax.
Saw in smooth full strokes, and lift the blade slightly on the return stroke.
Use a heavy enough blade, but still shoot for a couple teeth in the stock at all times. Most knife tasks work well with a #2 or #3 blade ... buy a gross, they break w=easily.
Install the blade with plenty of tension - Place the blade in the handle end and tighten the screw. Adjust the length so the other end is just entering the hole/slot. Put that end against the bench and press the handle with your chest/stomach. When the blade is fully in the hole/slot, tighten the lock screw.
 
Stacy can you recommend a brand ?
At the time I'm only wanting to use it for threading bolsters, so I thought 2" was plenty and took the flex out of the saw.
I'm not looking for cheap but accurate.

Also blade type for stainless ???
Teeth per inch for smoothest cut?
 
I use a very basic model saw frame for making jewellery... cutting shapes from semi precious and precious metal sheet and rod, blanks from steel for punching, resizing lengths of material for soldering... especially for cutting through steel, it's important to use blades that have a good temper, otherwise you'll be replacing them too often. That said I'm usually cutting anything from copper and brass to silver and gold, not often steel, which can dull out most blades quickly if you're using excess pressure.

I prefer Grobet blades. The thickness depends on the type of job I'm doing, and a difference in tooth per inch doesn't seem to have a terribly noticeable effect on sheet steel in terms of producing smooth cuts at that scale.
 
www.riogrande.com has many Jewellery saws. I have one I've had for since I was 14 so about 43 years. Get the 5-6" frame, If you want to pierce and work something in the middle of a blade etc you are going to want more than 2" of throat and they are just as rigid as a smaller throat saw.
 
If you get one from Rio Grande or another jeweler supply, they are all pretty much the same. A good saw fame costs about $10-15.

The blades cost about $15-20 a gross. The blades are where it make a big difference what brand you buy. I like Hercules and Pike Gold.

When first learning to use a jewelers saw, expect to break a lot of blades. Sometimes you will break a dozen blades sawing out a simple shape of slot. After you calm down and start making smooth full strokes, you will get to where the blades go dull before you break them. When a blade stops cutting a straight line and the cut starts to wander to one side - CHANGE IT NOW. If you take even one stroke against hardened steel, change the blade. Lubrication and slow smooth strokes greatly extend the life of a blade. Sawing "back and forth" will kill a blade in a centimeter of cut.
BTW, when the blade tension is right, "picking" the blade like a banjo string will make a high pitched tone. It shouldn't be too high, but never low. Again, once you have some experience, you will check the tension by ear.
 
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I find a jeweler's saw to be handy for making miniatures. It's pretty hard to slot a guard otherwise. My saw frame is adjustable for length, so you can still use broken blades.
 
Hahaha Laurence, I have you beat. I have had my jeweler's saw for 47 years if my math is correct. Then that darn Aarongb pops up with the Knew Cncept frame and I'm off to the races. Had to order one immediately. The jewelers saw is so useful for all the things Stacy mentioned and I'm sure a more rigid frame and better tension adjustment will make it much better. I only use mine occasionally but when I need it I want to put my hand right on it. Nice tools is part of the fun of making knives.
 
I'm still learning but I did this with a jewelers saw.
It's way faster the drilling and filing.
A tough stainless steel a bit over 1/8" with Hercules #2

IMG_20151213_160456_zpsj2gbznkm.jpg
 
Great timing on this thread, I'm just looking into these. Several have mentioned needing to lubricate the blade with a wax. Is this a generic paraffin type wax or a specialty wax? If its a specialty wax, what should I know before buying? The vast majority of my work would be copper, brass, and similar "semi-soft" metals. Will a jewelers saw work on horn, antler and ivory?
 
A jewelers saw will work on everything except hardened steel. Paraffin wax works just fine.
Once you learn to use one, you will find these saws extremely useful for a variety of operations.
They are extremely versatile and blades are available from the size of a human hair (8/0) to large (1).
If you are ham fisted and have no patience, jewelers saws are not for you. They are designed for delicate work, and they require finesse.
 
To thread a bolster you can do free hand with a jeweller saw, but i find it easier to grind thinner an hacksaw blade and run it against a guide, especially if the bolster surface is sloped and the blade tends to slip on one side. "Fence sawing" with the tiny saw could be a bit difficult but not undoable
 
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