Jimping files

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May 18, 2010
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Hoping someone knows where to get jimping files or can suggest a good way to do it. I found a Grobet Pillar Checkering file - part no. 31040 - best price $37.57 at B2BProfessionaltools.com. This file will do the job on flat surfaces, but I also have curved female surfaces to do. Cup your hand and imagine puttling the grooves at 90 degrees across your hand. I know I can use a 3 square slim cut which will make 1 groove per pass, but I would like to make multiple grooves per pass. Anyone know where I can get that type of file?
 
Just google checkering files and find best price. I have a Grobet 20 LPI I think I bought from MidWay USA. I am only familiar with flat checkering files. Hopefully someone on here might have some better info? I have been trying to find one less than 20LPI but I do not believe they exist anymore?
 
Hoping someone knows where to get jimping files or can suggest a good way to do it. I found a Grobet Pillar Checkering file - part no. 31040 - best price $37.57 at B2BProfessionaltools.com. This file will do the job on flat surfaces, but I also have curved female surfaces to do. Cup your hand and imagine puttling the grooves at 90 degrees across your hand. I know I can use a 3 square slim cut which will make 1 groove per pass, but I would like to make multiple grooves per pass. Anyone know where I can get that type of file?
They will still work on convex and concave areas, you probably won't be able to go full depth. It will layout your pattern and then you can clean-up with a triangle or (slim taper file).
 
You can do concave areas, one line at a time, with a jeweler's saw.
 
Hoping someone knows where to get jimping files or can suggest a good way to do it. I found a Grobet Pillar Checkering file - part no. 31040 - best price $37.57 at B2BProfessionaltools.com. This file will do the job on flat surfaces, but I also have curved female surfaces to do. Cup your hand and imagine puttling the grooves at 90 degrees across your hand. I know I can use a 3 square slim cut which will make 1 groove per pass, but I would like to make multiple grooves per pass. Anyone know where I can get that type of file?

Tim,

Here is a picture of a two line checkering file that I used often in firearms metal checkering. This is the file I would use to cut and space multiple lines in concave areas (around trigger guards etc). Now the bad news, I can not remember for the life of me where I purchased this file. I know exactly the problem your facing and this is the right tool for the job, dont give up your search. If I remember where I purchased I will be sure to let you know. This particular file cuts both 30 and 40 lpi.

IMGP9596_edited-1.jpg

IMGP9595_edited-1.jpg
 
Tim,

I seldom use this file anymore, if 30/40 LPI works for you, I would be happy to make this a loaner. Let me know via email if you want me to send it your way.

Ken
 
Y'know with all the toolmaking/metallurgy wisdom extant in this forum I'm startled that no has piped up offering make some of these in forms people want.
10tpi - no problem..................

2 line cuts @ whatever spacing you want piece of cake..............

I mean really now, it's an everyday cutting device made out of tool steel, which is what knifemakers do every day. Admittedly this one is more of a machining operation then a hand-grinding one but setting up the various spacings on a mill seems pretty straight forward to say nothing of getting the blanks water-jetted. If you've got CNC capabilities it sounds even easier to me. This site explains some of it: http://www.netris.org/RIToolmakers/FILEMAKING/File-making-H-M.html

I'm not a toolmaker but if I was and had access to the machines I'd be doing this myself and selling them here and on eBay. No need to pay me any royalties for this idea, just let me test the prototypes

Syn
 
Y'know with all the toolmaking/metallurgy wisdom extant in this forum I'm startled that no has piped up offering make some of these in forms people want.
10tpi - no problem..................

2 line cuts @ whatever spacing you want piece of cake..............

I mean really now, it's an everyday cutting device made out of tool steel, which is what knifemakers do every day. Admittedly this one is more of a machining operation then a hand-grinding one but setting up the various spacings on a mill seems pretty straight forward to say nothing of getting the blanks water-jetted. If you've got CNC capabilities it sounds even easier to me. This site explains some of it: http://www.netris.org/RIToolmakers/FILEMAKING/File-making-H-M.html

I'm not a toolmaker but if I was and had access to the machines I'd be doing this myself and selling them here and on eBay. No need to pay me any royalties for this idea, just let me test the prototypes

Syn
I agree with you. I just don't see the demand. I think what tim37a is trying to accomplish can be done with a regular checkering file. It's only .500 wide, Anything tighter you can just use a triangle file, or as Mr. DeShivs suggested a jewelers saw. As a Toolmaker I can tell you it would be easy to make one, just not practical for what it would cost.
 
Having spent many tedious hours metal checkering I can say with all due respect that a standard flat checkering file will not work in inside radius's. You end up riding on the two outer edges with no way to control the spacing. The problem with using a 3 sided file again goes back to no way of getting accurate spacing. Quality metal checkering relies on perfectly spaced and formed grooves. Again the two toothed checkering file is the best solution to this problem.
 
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Having spent many tedious hours metal checkering I can say with all due respect that a standard flat checkering file will not work in inside radius's. You end up riding on the two outer edges with no way to control the spacing. The problem with using a 3 sided file again goes back to no way of getting accurate spacing. Quality metal checkering relies on perfectly spaced and formed grooves. Again the two toothed checkering file is the best solution to this problem.
Ken, I see your point on the spacing. If it's off it ruins the job.
I searched the web couldn't find any of those. I have a friend who is a Gunsmith I will see if he knows.
 
One might be able to modify a thread-chasing file into a coarse checkering file.
 
Ken - thanks for the loaner offer but since I will probably use it for most of the knives I make a loaner would not be too practical.
1234567890 - good idea. Don't know if a hardened steel file can be ground or if it would have to be annealed, ground, and rehardened. Can anyone tell me?
butcher_block - great idea. There is a guy with an EDM machine up the road - I will call him on Monday.
 
One might be able to modify a thread-chasing file into a coarse checkering file.

Thread-cleaning files are soft, not keen at all, and next-to-useless for actually cutting annealed steel or anything else. Honestly, they don't even work all that well for chasing threads. (I just use a small triangle file when I need to clean up the end of a cut-off bolt, for instance.)
They are reasonably useful for making evenly-spaced marks in dye-kem or sharpie-covered steel; then you can make the actual cuts with a saw, needle file, etc. Then again, a divider or caliper can do the same job.

Why can't you just take the file and (cut or) grind it to half it's thickness width?

(quote edited) I suspect that's the best option, to keep the even spacing. Naturally, no matter how you cut/grind it to the width needed, it will need to be kept cool to prevent losing its hardness.
 
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(quote edited) I suspect that's the best option, to keep the even spacing.
Naturally, no matter how you cut/grind it to the width needed, it will need to be kept cool to prevent losing its hardness.

Width, yes you're right.

Keep it cool for hardness and to keep it from warping.

I tried grinding the teeth off a file for a file knife once, curled up like a potato chip.
 
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