July BOTM!!

isn't Buck using Cerakote now? The other coatings I don't think exist anymore.
 
jbmonkey said:
as tiguy7 mentioned earlier in the thread aluminum is touchy for screwing unscrewing stability without super extra care. could make warranty send in ridiculous and bad blood, for Buck, from customers not understanding that. assume would be better in a sturdier metal. except for weight of course.
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I think you nailed it. If I was Buck I wouldn't offer any take apart 110 or 112 parts unless there were threaded inserts. I can only imagine the amt of claims that could possibly happen.
 
As a mechanic I know that working with aluminum is a tedious operation. The torque is critical that you don’t exceed the specifications. Aluminum is soft and can sheer much easier than brass or ns. That’s why I use blue assembly grade thread locker on everything so that even if it’s not torqued down the blue locker will keep it in place and can still be removed without applying heat. It’s a great product that can save you a lot of heartache and money.

As for myself I’m not interested in the take apart version, I’ll leave them as they are. I’d rather have the pinned assembly and it’s been very reliable for over 50 years. I guess cleaning would be more effective with the take apart model but I haven’t encountered any problems with the pinned version if done properly.
 
Makael said:
isn't Buck using Cerakote now? The other coatings I don't think exist anymore.
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Buck is not set up for the Physical Vapor Deposition of hard Ceramics. Cerakote is an organic (paint) coat with hard (Ceramic) particles added. The coating is thicker, is baked on, and can be applied to a larger variety of surfaces. I can steel a knife on a Ceramic coated blade but not a Cerakoted one.
 
tiguy7 said:
Buck is not set up for the Physical Vapor Deposition of hard Ceramics. Cerakote is an organic (paint) coat with hard (Ceramic) particles added. The coating is thicker, is baked on, and can be applied to a larger variety of surfaces. I can steel a knife on a Ceramic coated blade but not a Cerakoted one.
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I get that. I don't think they are doing any coatings other than Cerakote.

I believe but could be wrong that these are gone:

The TDLC (Tungsten Diamond Like Carbon) as used on the Alaska Guide blades is 72 HRC. This is Tungsten Carbide.
The TiN (Titanium Nitride) as used on BuckCote/IonFusion blades is 82 HRC.
The ZrN (Zirconium Nitride) 85 HRC.
The TiCN (Titanium Carbo Nitride) 88 HRC.
The TiAlN (Titanium Aluminum Nitride) 92 HRC.
 
If buck does any further Ceramic coatings, they will likely farm them out. Not enough volume to get the equipment. Just a guess.
 
Lesknife said:
As a mechanic I know that working with aluminum is a tedious operation. The torque is critical that you don’t exceed the specifications. Aluminum is soft and can sheer much easier than brass or ns. That’s why I use blue assembly grade thread locker on everything so that even if it’s not torqued down the blue locker will keep it in place and can still be removed without applying heat. It’s a great product that can save you a lot of heartache and money.

As for myself I’m not interested in the take apart version, I’ll leave them as they are. I’d rather have the pinned assembly and it’s been very reliable for over 50 years. I guess cleaning would be more effective with the take apart model but I haven’t encountered any problems with the pinned version if done properly.
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I don't hesitate putting a machine thread in Aluminum if the hole is 3X as deep as it is wide.image.jpeg
 
tiguy7 said:
I don't hesitate putting a machine thread in Aluminum if the hole is 3X as deep as it is wide.View attachment 1389003
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That wasn’t the point. I have also put threads in aluminum and I work on many aluminum parts and components very regularly but it can’t be over torqued or it will either shear threads, gauld the threads to seize to the screw. Or they are cross threaded and ruin both screw and the part. I’ve seen it countless times when a young inexperienced person tries to set a screw in aluminum. A trained and experienced person will know this but how many times can Buck repair or replace an aluminum knife that a novice has ruined before they have lost more than it’s worth. So the torque limit is critical and more so with aluminum and other soft metals. By using liquid thread lock On the screw it doesn’t even need to be tightened. It will set where you put it to. It’s Vibration resistant, temperature variations won’t cause it to loosen but it can still be removed with normal hand tools without using heat .
 
When I put pocket clip screws on Model 111’s, the dead soft Aluminum requires special drills, taps, and lubricants. The Machinery Handbook recommends larger tap drills for deep holes than for shallow ones. Small screws have torque specs which I don’t exceed. I guess it helps to know what you are doing, pay attention, and have the right tools and materials. I also use a hand tapper.
 
I do hope we see more aluminum frame 112's even if the take apart knives are limited. How many 110 aluminum frame models are out? It just seems to me to be a big step in the development of the 110/112.. A hand filling knife without the weight penalty brass or nickel silver have. Will a polished finish hold up in aluminum?
 
Better late than never, want to say thanks to all the great members here that reached out to me and offered me there BOTM , and my post # 148 was not for anybody to feel bad for me or for the reason hoping I would get one, I was just stating the facts. Now we need to buy blades, and different color screws, 692D6FDD-B1C4-4D3B-B2C4-4E1F343AB329.jpeg 444B8D8F-DEA0-40A1-B481-546A358650A4.jpeg 0B3B7AFD-6B25-4875-9C5B-12400CCD31D1.jpeg D34FA714-0CC4-4E15-B0AF-F4DCD2981EAB.jpeg 70ECD785-EC9B-43D7-988C-520E5AC4EB8F.jpeg
 
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