Just how rust-proof is the powder coating?

R

Randall Stevensen

Joined
Oct 5, 2009
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I've seen it said before on this forum and others that the powder coatings of ESEE knives protect the blades from rust. I've already read that coatings are not completely impervious to water; it can get trapped underneath and cause the blade to rust without the user knowing.

So which is it? What are your experiences? The reason I ask is because I'm thinking about getting an RC-6, and I'm trying to decide if I'll strip the black off or just let it wear off in time. If there's a chance the blade will rust underneath, I'll strip it so the blade will be exposed and I'll be able to keep it clean.
 
As long as you keep it clean, don't let exposed metal rust, and don't lock it in a safe for three years, it's just about impossible to get under that coating.
 
I would imagine that the powdercoating they use would not allow water to get under it, even if it wore away in spots, IMO. As Dizwolf said, just keep it oiled if need be but if you just use it like a normal knife you'll be fine. Simply using it will keep any rust from forming.
 
You would know if it was rusting under the coating. It would be bubbling. :)
 
The coating is much more rustproof than the actual blade steel. :p
I wouldn't worry about it. My Izula is stripped and hasn't shown any signs of wanting to rust. I always wipe the blade dry after washing or using it.
 
i like the coating a lot on mine, i wipe it down after i use it, but there is some discolration around the laser etching, but i dont mind it is a user, :D
 
What do you guys use as a protectant? I've been wiping my RC-5 down with a silicone gun cloth and no signs of rust.
 
you're good to go - IIRC that's what they recommend on the website.
 
Mineral oil on my food knives, silicone rag on my beaters-the powdercoat will prevent rust on all covered steel 100%-the edge and engravings will rust if you do not keep the steel clean after use. It only takes 2 seconds to whipe your blade down so if you get in the habit of doing it you won't even notice an inconvenience. If the steel does rust then go over it with 3M scotchbrite pads and in about two passes your blade will look new again.
 
Thanks for the information everyone. I still think I would probably remove the coating for less friction while cutting, plus I prefer the look of an uncoated blade. Has anyone stripped theirs? If so, what did you use?
 
dude just keep it clean, don't let the non-powder-coat rust, and don't leave it in a damp area for a long period of time, it's just about impossible to get under that powder coat:p
 
Randall Stevensen said:
Thanks for the information everyone. I still think I would probably remove the coating for less friction while cutting, plus I prefer the look of an uncoated blade. Has anyone stripped theirs? If so, what did you use?
Click to expand...

Just about any paint stripper will work and it will slice nicer.
 
hoopster said:
Just about any paint stripper will work and it will slice nicer.
Click to expand...

Thanks. That's what I'm going for, mostly slicing ability and looks.

I'm a little concerned about finding the right paint stripper. I already tried to strip a Kabar Becker BK-2, and after trying two different paint strippers, I still have only gotten about half the coating to come off. Perhaps I need something stronger?
 
I stripped my ESEE3MIL due to the coating being worn out and I left the powder coat under the scales so never to worry about any issues under the scales and rubbed a very light coat of gun blue on it to protect the bare 1095 steel....
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My ESEE6 is next
 
How did you get the nice clean line where the powder coating ends? Tape of some sort?
 
I used tape and slopped on some paint stripper and 10 minutes later using a razor blade ,the coating came off w/o a hitch.I did each side one at a time then the spine.. being paint stripper burns and I did not use gloves :D
 
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