Just made my first batch of Ferric Chloride

R

RockFireForge

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Dec 16, 2016
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Can't believe how easy it was. I was watching some YouTube videos and found one with directions to make the stuff. Found all the stuff at my local hardware store and took only a few minutes to make.
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this was before I added the hydrogen peroxide
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and this was after its really a strong concoction please be careful if you attempt this


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I went with a about a 3 to 1 ration dilution cleaned the blade with acetone then brushed it on with a rag suspending it in the solution would be better


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When you said you "made" it, exactly what recipe did you use? If it was muriatic acid and peroxide, that recipe is for etching copper circuit boards. It will etch steel, but almost everyone uses FC instead. I don't like the look of a blade etched in muriatic acid. The only time I use it is for etching stainless damascus.

Most folks just buy the crystals and mix it with water, You have to add the crystals to the water slowly, because it will heat up. It also gives off chlorine gas while mixing, so you need to have a fan running and stay upwind.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
When you said you "made" it, exactly what recipe did you use? If it was muriatic acid and peroxide, that recipe is for etching copper circuit boards. It will etch steel, but almost everyone uses FC instead. I don't like the look of a blade etched in muriatic acid. The only time I use it is for etching stainless damascus.

Most folks just buy the crystals and mix it with water, You have to add the crystals to the water slowly, because it will heat up. It also gives off chlorine gas while mixing, so you need to have a fan running and stay upwind.
Click to expand...





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You add steel wool to muriatic acid and let it dissolve then you add hydrogen peroxide to my understanding that is Ferric Chloride


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But I have no scientific evidence to back that up but it works pretty good if I don't say so myself


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Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
When you said you "made" it, exactly what recipe did you use? If it was muriatic acid and peroxide, that recipe is for etching copper circuit boards. It will etch steel, but almost everyone uses FC instead. I don't like the look of a blade etched in muriatic acid. The only time I use it is for etching stainless damascus.

Most folks just buy the crystals and mix it with water, You have to add the crystals to the water slowly, because it will heat up. It also gives off chlorine gas while mixing, so you need to have a fan running and stay upwind.
Click to expand...


If you haven't yet Stacy, try heating your regular ferric solution for etching stainless. You'll have to find what temp works best for you and your expectations of time, but myself and most of my customers who use my stainless damascus, prefer this method over muriatic. This also works for blackening many stainlesses that don't react to room temp ferric at all. YMMV of course.
 
RockFire - That will make FC, but is more work than it is worth for most folks. The strength is probably fine, but isn't an exact Baume concentration. Since FC powder is $7-8 a pound from eBay, it is really cheap to make an exact and pure mixture. Right now, 2 pounds is $15 plus about $10 shipping - $25 to make 1/2 gallon of stock solution, which will make two gallons of 3:1 etchant. In 5# lots, it is even cheaper.

Here is my standard recipe:

Mix outdoors and don't breath the fumes when it is dissolving. Wearing gloves and a face shield, is a good practice. Add the powder to the water .... never the other way around. Add slowly.

FC should be mixed to make a 42 Baume stock solution. You add one pound of crystals to 18 ounces of water to get this strength - one pound to one pint is close enough. Delbert Ealy, who knows a lot about etching solutions, suggests you let it sit for a couple days before use. Dilute the working solution from this stock . Three parts water to one part stock is what I use ( that is the same as Del's one pound to one gallon in his recipe).
If you are just making up one gallon, skip the stock solution. If making up a larger batch, one gallon of stock solution is easier to store than four gallons of working solution. For one gallon of stock, mix four pounds FC powder with a gallon of water.

The liquid will get warm/hot as you mix it, so add the powder slowly to the liquid in a large heavy plastic drywall type bucket. Add slowly, stir gently, keeping upwind. A fan running behind you to push the chlorine vapors away is a good idea. When the solution has completely mixed, cover loosely and let cool off before transferring into a heavy duty plastic storage bottle. Use a funnel and pour slowly. Pour over dirt or grass, as FC will stain concrete and can ruin deck boards (don't ask me how I know this :) )




Javand - Yes, I use warm FC to etch some stainless damascus, but when I want a good show in some alloy blends, diluted muriatic gives a better look. It etches whiter.
 
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Thanks guys good to know with the mutation acid steel wool hydrogen peroxide method I can make 2 gallons for a 12.00 plus a couple pieces of steel wool


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Something we say at school is:

Do as you "otter", add acid to water.

Not the other way around. Goes for both solid and liquid acids.
 
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