Ka-Bar handle refurb

Ruari

Ruari

Joined
Jul 5, 2014
Messages
3,523
I was going through some of my posts and remembered that is posted this in the 'Maintenance' area and thought I'd share it here, where it belongs really.
Having read a few threads on refurbing stacked leather handles, I decided to take the plunge on my old Ka Bar. I love this knife and it has been around the world with me.
After taking it out to the jungle for two months, the stacked leather handle was ragged. The finish was rough and there was some shrinkage away from the guard. At the time I didn't know what to do, so I used Dubbin on the handle.
Fast forward two years and I still have this knife on my belt. The leather handle is dark from the Dubbin. I got some sandpaper(180, 400 and 1000 grit) and sanded the leather until it was uniformly lighter and leather 'dust' was coming off.
I then covered the handle in CA (superglue) and allowed it dry. Then I sanded it down with the 400 and later the 1000 grit paper. I then used a cheap nylon bristled nail brush to remove the swarf and buff the handle up.

It now is nice and hard with a good sheen. Although darker than it was originally, I am pleased with my morning's work to revitalise this trusty knife a little.

Before
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After
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Nice job! I just got one from a friend to work on because his dog got hold of it. Can't get the pits out but really all it took was a bit of sanding and some KIWI oil, new sheath and its good to go.
Thanks for sharing, this does belong here!
 
Thanks for the comments, it is still going strong, this was done last year in August/September. I'm going to fill in the gap between the guard and handle with some epoxy or Milliput. Can't beat a Ka-Bar.
 
Wurger190 said:
Thanks for the comments, it is still going strong, this was done last year in August/September. I'm going to fill in the gap between the guard and handle with some epoxy or Milliput. Can't beat a Ka-Bar.
Click to expand...

Why don't you drive the pommel pin out, pull the stack off the tang and just sand it flat? Replace that small section with something else like a shim of brass, shaped down to meet the lines of the stack?
 
druid189 said:
Why don't you drive the pommel pin out, pull the stack off the tang and just sand it flat? Replace that small section with something else like a shim of brass, shaped down to meet the lines of the stack?
Click to expand...
I had not thought of that, but I will consider that as an option. What tools would I need?
 
Wurger190 said:
I had not thought of that, but I will consider that as an option. What tools would I need?
Click to expand...

A punch and mallet to drive out the pommel pin.

Some sandpaper or steel wool for the tang when you slide the leather washer stack off the tang.

A disc or belt sander to sand that area of the handle stack perfectly flat....and also to shape the brass to exacting dimensions of the leather washer stack.

A piece of brass [like a washer] to make a new spacer that rests against the guard.
 
Is th pommel pin not captured? What I mean is that I can only see the pin on one side. Would I not have to drill it out?
 
Great idea, I've just sent Ka-Bar an email about a replacement pommel pin, we shall see what the reply is.
 
How wide is the gap at the guard? You can still get fiber sheets from some knife parts suppliers like Janz. The black sheets I've seen lately come in either 0.030" or 0.039" thickness for less than a couple of bucks a sheet that will make a lot of spacers. The fiber material will very closely match the black spacers that are next to the guard or pommel. Just an option to consider.
 
Sac troop, I'll look into the Janz sheet option, the gap is 1.5mm wide.
I've received a positive reply from the helpful folks at Ka-Bar - they will look if they have any spare pins and send it to me. Looking forward to this DIY and I'll update accordingly, with photos.
 
Sounds like two of the 0.030 spacers will fill that gap. Just an observation from the first picture posted, looks like the head of the pin was mushroomed a good bit. Don't let that give you a false impression of the actual diameter of the pin. You don't want to choose too large a drill to remove the original pin. Not the end of the world if you do but you'll have to fashion your own replacement pin afterwords. Removing that pin is going to be a precision operation, I'd at least want a drill press and good vise to keep the knife solidly lined up and true to the drill bit.
If your going to all the trouble of dis-assembling the knife you might want to consider if you want to refinish the metal at the same time. If your going to have it in pieces that would be the time to do it. Please keep us informed on the progress of your project.
 
Why not just fill it in with epoxy or a split washer? If its not loose, why make a big job of it? Seems a little risky tearing it apart. It looks really nice like it is.
 
It looks good. :thumbup:
Hey, Just some helpful information that may help... If you want to smooth or plump up stacked leather handles, pick up a beeswax product called Sno-Seal. It is made of beeswax and silicon, and will absorb into the leather plumping it up and also waterproofing the handle and tang from oils and moisture. To use, apply the Sno-Seal with a clean wash cloth liberally to the stacked leather handle in gobs. Then wrap the handle with aluminum foil, covering the pommel and guard to trap the product inside. Heat the product using a blow drier, on medium-high heat for 5-10 minutes. The blow drier should be 2-5 inches away from the foil. Rotate the knife during application a few times so the melted Sno-Seal will get absorbed evenly. Allow the product to solidify in the foil for 10 minutes after heating, then remove excess Sno-Seal with a clean wash cloth or tube sock. This can be repeated a few times. This will plump up old or rough leather. Keep in mind that Sno-Seal does have silicon in it, which may slightly darken the leather handle. I restored an old Cattaraugus Quartermaster 225Q handle this way. It works well. The product will run you about eight dollars plus shipping for a small jar of it, and will last a long time. I use this product on almost all of my leather sheaths and handles to waterproof. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
 
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