KA BAR Inspired Design - Your Input

When I make a stacked Micarta handle I usually use 1/4" or 3/16" thick pieces. It gives more of the traditional look than using big thick pieces or one solid block.
 
As far as Steels, If you want a Stainless , nothing wrong with using 440C RC 58-59 .. Are you just making one or is this something you want to offer to customers & gift to friends?
 
Sometimes I put in thin red spacers of vulcanized fiber to make a line, but most times I just stack the micarta. I have done it with leather between the micarta and didn't like the look. When you stack all micarta you still get a glue line that makes a stacked look. I usually dye the epoxy black for this to accentuate the line.
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
As far as Steels, If you want a Stainless , nothing wrong with using 440C RC 58-59 .. Are you just making one or is this something you want to offer to customers & gift to friends?
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I would definitely like to have a repeatable process and make more than one. I like the idea of 440C, thanks. Any other Stainless Steels I should consider, perhaps better than 440C ?
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Sometimes I put in thin red spacers of vulcanized fiber to make a line, but most times I just stack the micarta. I have done it with leather between the micarta and didn't like the look. When you stack all micarta you still get a glue line that makes a stacked look. I usually dye the epoxy black for this to accentuate the line.
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Great, thanks Stacy.
 
Heli00 said:
I would definitely like to have a repeatable process and make more than one. I like the idea of 440C, thanks. Any other Stainless Steels I should consider, perhaps better than 440C ?
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I definitely think our old pal AEB-L fits the bill, it's one of the toughest stainless steels according to Larrins research. Which may suit this kind of knife well.

https://knifesteelnerds.com/2019/03/04/all-about-aeb-l/
 
Heli00 said:
Cool, new steel to try. How does it compare to AEB-L?

Thanks again,
Constantin
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AEB-L is a tad more expensive than 440C. I use both . I haven’t Price check this new CPM-S45VM? But I’m sure it costs more. I’ll also say if these are used in the Field both 44C & AEB-L are fairly easy to sharpen.. I get my Steels from www.newjerseysteelbaron.com Avoid buying from EBay and other places. The steel may not be as advertised ....
 
For info on S-45VN take a look at the charts Larin posted in his current thread on it. I was impressed at the toughness and other attributes.


I will address the subject of this steel vs that steel:
AEB-L is a great steel, but I think this new 45VN steel will be better. However, it may not be that is "better" enough to matter over AEB-L, depends on the knife's use. If the knife will be heavily used and abused, then 45VN is a good choice. On the other hand, few knife tasks require more than AEB-L can offer.
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
AEB-L is a tad more expensive than 440C. I use both . I haven’t Price check this new CPM-S45VM? But I’m sure it costs more. I’ll also say if these are used in the Field both 44C & AEB-L are fairly easy to sharpen.. I get my Steels from www.newjerseysteelbaron.com Avoid buying from EBay and other places. The steel may not be as advertised ....
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I believe AEB-L is typically a little cheaper per foot that 440-C... at least it was last time I looked.
 
I just received my sheets of the new Ultrex (G-10 with rubber layers) from Jantz. This stuff would make a killer stacked handle. Check the current thread on it.
 
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Guys, thanks so much for the great feedback and education received, I’m really appreciative.

Looks like the consensus is for the B.1 blade version, with a bit less belly as mentioned. So for this rendition, since it's my favorite as well, I’ll be going with that.

For steel, I’ll go with AEB-L since I already have some in 0.188 (3/16”) and am
comfortable with its HT.

Questions:

1. Should I grind the bevels after HT or before? I’m thinking after, but not sure considering the material thickness.

2. What hardness should I shoot for, I’m thinking 60 HRC, what do you advise?

Thanks again,
Constantin
 
From what I understand, you should grind after the HT, AEB-L tends to warp badly during HT when ground.
 
A.McPherson said:
From what I understand, you should grind after the HT, AEB-L tends to warp badly during HT when ground.
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You’re right, I was just questioning if it is too much material to grind with a 3/16” stock after HT.
Regardless, I’ll be ok straightening it, since I just recently HT a kitchen blade, but it was a lot thiner.
 
Heli00 said:
You’re right, I was just questioning if it is too much material to grind with a 3/16” stock after HT.
Regardless, I’ll be ok straightening it, since I just recently HT a kitchen blade, but it was a lot thiner.
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I grind all my blades after HT, no matter the size. :thumbsup:

I like the consistency of the process, like the ease of plate quenching (when applicable) and surface grinding before hardness testing etc.

42ZZaaD.jpg
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Sometimes I put in thin red spacers of vulcanized fiber to make a line, but most times I just stack the micarta. I have done it with leather between the micarta and didn't like the look. When you stack all micarta you still get a glue line that makes a stacked look. I usually dye the epoxy black for this to accentuate the line.
Click to expand...

What do you use to dye the epoxy?
 
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